I'm new to the forums, here. I bought my 2008 Honda Fit Base model a couple of weekends ago. I really like it. I am installing the keyless entry kit. It has been pretty easy and straightforward except until I got to the 5-pin connector-blue tape search. Can anyone verify that blue tape is still wrapped around the connector in the 2008 Fit? For the life of me I see no blue tape. I loosened the fuse box and still could not see blue tape. The instructions seem to say the connector is behind the fuse box. Others on this thread have said it's above the brake pedal/gas pedal area. I did find a connector up towards the bezel area but it does not appear to fit the connector nor to be easily ably to reach the connector.

The diagram in the instructions is more confusing to me than helpful (in that particular instruction).

Does anyone else have any other guidance to better hone down it's location. THanks for any help that can be given.

 

In hopes that it may help others, here's a follow up from my previous post.

First, installation instructions are faulty in the items you will need to complete the installation. You will also need two more items:

1) A week's worth of muscle relaxant;
2) Several days dosages of vicodin or some other painkiller.

On to the serious comments.

The installation of the keyless entry was easy with the exception - a big exception - of finding the blue tape/5-pin connector. After looking for it for more than an hour last evening, I began to wonder if something had changed on the 2008 Fit, so I went to the local dealer.

The dealer advised me that even their techs had difficulty finding it at times. He said they often used the little mechanics mirrors to find it. That's what I ended up doing. I also loosened up the fuse box as another poster noted.

My biggest frustration was in finding that connector. The wires almost completely obscure the 5-pin connector/BLUE TAPE.The best way to see it is from the vantage point of looking from the gas pedal toward the fuse box with a mechanics mirror above and to the right of the fuse box. The connector is 1-2" above the fuse box. I have attached some diagrams to try to give an idea of the orientation.



Was it worth it? As long as it continues to work well, absolutely. It was a pain in the butt, that's all. It is not so much that you'd mess anything up as it is being a simple pain in the butt that needs help and perseverance in finding the connector. It's not really an issue of messing something up.

I hope this helps.

 

Hello everyone. Im new to the forum but I have been reading around for a little while. My question is my wife wants the keyless entry and since its a base it will have an extra key fob. I was wondering if it is possible to go to the dealership and get the key for a sport? The key for the sport does have the keyless entry intregrated into the key right?

 

Chappy, thanks your post helped me find the blue taped connector. It is behind and at the top, not somewhere midway behind the fuse box as the diagram seems to indicate.

And when doing the security system install, after you disconnect the 6 connectors to the fuse box, remember to reconnect them after you attach the 20 pin connectors Don't ask!

 

Three things:

1) For those that installed the Security Alarm, did you actually loosen the right steering wheel column screw/bolt to attach the Security Alarm unit and then torque it back to specs? For now, I have let it sitting on the metal joint wrapped in gauze to remove any sound from the car vibration.

2) How many of you actually used all the Tie Wraps as the instructions indicated? (I did not.)

3) Any one find out if it's possible to buy the "key-in-remote" for the sport and program it for the "base" model?


I just did both of mine ('08) yesterday and it took about an hour - an hour and a half. While it didn't take me long (5-10 minutes), finding the blue wrapped connector was a pain the neck and back (literally) and I'm a small guy!

Later,

-d

 

Chappy - thanks very much for the diagram. It helped me out a lot!!! I had my head around the clutch/brake area and didn't see a thing. When I moved my head over thet gas pedal and felt around, there was the infamous connector with the blue tape!!! For a brief moment, I was wondering if the Honda engineers wrapped any other connectors with blue tape!! Once I got everything buttoned up, the keyless entry worked like a charm.

Thanks again!!

 

If you can get the key-in-remote, it can be programmed to work with the keyless entry. Adding remotes and clearing remotes can all be done with a few twists of the ignition if you read the users manual that comes with the
keyless entry. I haven't actually done it though.

 

Would it work if the FCC ID was different? It was noted in another forum that the FCC ID for the keyless entry was different than the key-in-remote. The FCC ID on the keyless entry is NHVWB1U523.

-d

 

I don't know about compatibility between different systems. The manual says you can program the keyless entry to accept other fobs/keys. Keep in mind it's the unit inside the car that is being programmed, not the key.

 

I just found the first practical use of "refresh mode". I had to pull the back seat bottom up so I could have the driver's seat all the way back, but aside from the headrush, this made finding the blue taped connector a breeze! And the system works like a charm! Sweet!
Wonder how much adding keyless entry increases resale?

 

Wow, putting the drivers seat all the way back would have helped significantly. I wish I would have thought about doing that!

 

OK...I really feel stupid...but...this thread was really helpful for the install of the remote...took about an hour...but if I had come here 1st would have been no more than 30 minutes...after about 45 minutes of trying to find the tape, I came here and literally found it in a few seconds...thanks for the drawing!

Now for the problem...I programmed the 1st fob just like the instructions and it worked. then I programmed the 2nd...it did not work...then to make matters worse the 1st did not work either after programming the 2nd one. I started over and I cannot get either one to work. it makes the noises when programming...what am I missing? or what can I do to start over on the programming...thanks in advance for the help...

 

granburysprint

You may be having the same problem I was. I had to read through the stuff again to refresh myself. The problem I had was when I went through the steps to "program" the stuff. The door locks would activate making the sound. I thought, okay so it "read it".

Then, I would try the next key and get nothing. I did that a couple of times, before I realized I was missing one simple step. When the door locks activated and made the noise, it is just going into "programming mode", and is not done. THEN, you mash lock on the key fob and it "programs" it.

I was missing that simple last step and it kept throwing me off, by having the car respond to what I was doing making me think it was working, but the fobs wouldn't work. So, if you are having the same failure in logic I was having, you just simply need to mash lock after it goes into "programming" mode.

 

Thanks...I did exactly as you did the first time (for both fobs)...then I realized like you that I did the last step wrong...did it again for both and included the last step...did one completely, then the other completely...but nothing works...do I need to "clear" the memory somehow? did not see anything in the user guide about doing that...I was going to try Bernardi's today to see if they could help.

 

Hi, it's been a looong time since I've posted, but I wanted to give credit where it's due. After threatening to do it for 3 years, I've finally installed my keyless unit. I've read and reread this topic, and I would NOT have succeeded without it.

Thank you Chappy for the diagram! My first thought when I saw the tape was "That CAN'T be it...It should be more obvious!"

Thank you apachesurfer. That instruction has so much grammatical error that I'm considering working for JP Honda

For all of you normal size people, I applaud you for finishing it! I'm 4'7", barely 90lbs, and still feel like untwisting my body from a pretzel twist. In the end I still couldn't manage the blue tape stuff, so I gave up and connected them from the front (I gave up pushing the urethane one behind the fuse box). After all that I was too tired to care about the black tie, so I just shoved everything back.

Well, it's done, I'm proud of myself. It probably would have been easier if it was during day time and if it wasn't raining, but I'm silly like that.

Thank you everyone!

 

Hi, Thanks for this DIY. I was able to install my keyless entry in an hour.
I posted some pics for additional reference
This was taken with my head at the gas pedal.

 

First post. I just bought a used 2007 Red MT LX with 50k km. Babied by an elderly couple. Still smells new. First off, great forum with a wealth of info.

I am planning a few mods. The first is to add keyless entry as per this thread. The problem is the base US model and the CDN LX model differ a little. Two separate dealers state that my Fit is not applicable to this part number (08E60-SLN-100).

Any one in Canada have any difficulty/success with this mod? Or are the dealers just out to get me with upselling an aftermarket unit.

Cheers.

 

I know this is an old thread. Can someone help me out by giving me the 5 wire color of the "blue tape" 5 pin connector?

I am trying to install the keyless system into my GD1. The fuse box looks the same except it is horizontal. I can only locate a blue taped "4 pin" connector. I wonder if the connectors are different.

 

I just installed this in mine (the drivers side lock seized up and I can't get it loose).

I wondered where it was too, but found it after putting my head by the brake pedal and looking up behind the fuse box. There's a thick cable and the 5-pin connector (with the blue tape) come out of this.

You ask what color the wire is, but there isn't really that much wire behind it. The connector just sticks out the side of the vehicle harness.

It was definitely the only thing that had blue tape on it though, and it was the hardest piece to connect because it was right up behind the fuse box.

 

Clifford 50.7x 2-way alarm was a pain. This system must be easier to install than that.