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Maintenance free battery maintenance??

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  #1  
Old 09-16-2011, 01:28 PM
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Maintenance free battery maintenance??

I have an 08 Fit with 87K on the clock so far. This morning the car started fine, got to my daughters daycare and it started up just fine again, went to another place and the battery crapped out on me 30 minutes later and would not start for anything. I had to get a jump-start to make it into work. The connections are just fine at the terminals. The stock battery is marked as "maintenance free", but it has a sight window that shows that I should add distilled water (it shows a red ring). I see what look like big plastic phillips screws on top. I'm guessing those unscrew and I can add the distilled water in those holes?


There is a thread from last month I believe that asks if a bad battery would cause bad gas mileage. I have noticed a decrease in MPGs. I'm usually at 32 to 34, but have got 29 on my last tank. Thought I would mention it.

Has anyone had to do any maintenance to their maintenance free battery?
 
  #2  
Old 09-16-2011, 02:38 PM
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OEM battery??? Sight window shows a 'red thing' means battery is kaput - battery good it's green. There is no maintenance on the battery. It might still take a charge though.

Seems it came on in a hurry. You could have a problem w/ the charging system; ie the alternator. I would suggest you have that checked out.
 

Last edited by Krimson_Cardnal; 09-16-2011 at 02:43 PM.
  #3  
Old 09-16-2011, 05:42 PM
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Yea, it's the OEM battery. Red means add water. It's just funny that it says "maintenance free" but also tells you to add water.

We'll see if I can get it home. I'll report back after I have a chance to get it into my garage.
 

Last edited by D50boy; 09-19-2011 at 12:22 PM.
  #4  
Old 09-16-2011, 08:59 PM
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Red means add water
I never realized that.
 
  #5  
Old 09-17-2011, 09:22 AM
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We always check the water in our maintenance-free batteries if possible. The "Phillips" screw-caps have a label over them, I just cut around the label with an X-Acto knife.

On the '07 Fit, though, the positive battery terminal is very large (incorporates the main fuse holder) and covers that end filler cap. And the two end cells are most likely to need water, in my experience.

So you have to disconnect the red terminal before filling that cell. Make sure you have your radio security code before beginning, and do the Idle Learn Procedure after you get everything back together.

Of course, if you can connect a wire (like a jumper cable) to the battery terminal (more difficult than it sounds, for sure) you won't lose power and have to reset everything.


++++++++++++++

Remember, most battery damage is done during hot weather...but the reduced starting capability won't be noticed until it gets cold...so check the water in every cell NOW.
 
  #6  
Old 09-19-2011, 10:38 AM
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I removed the battery and peeled back the sticker to get to those 6 caps. Used my biggest screwdriver to unscrew them (for the size not because it was tough). I was sure to use a pair of pliers to remove the caps.... I got a little bit of acid on my work bench.. bubble bubble bubble..don't get that stuff on you. I added distilled water to the upper line while shining a light through the back of the battery. I put the caps back in and put the sticker back. The window was white which means that it had to be charged. After 1 1/2 hours on the charger, the window went back to blue. It has been working fine all weekend.

I'll report back on my gas mileage once I run through a tank.
 
  #7  
Old 09-19-2011, 11:26 AM
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I just took a closer look at the battery and I see what you say. There's an upper and lower mark on the side, how low was yours? Curious if you see any change in the MPG as well. All parts of the puzzle.
 
  #8  
Old 09-19-2011, 11:59 AM
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The difference is mineral content of the water. Always put distilled water in the battery - it's pure H2O.

You can choose to cheap out, but you run the risk of shortening the life/capacity of the battery.
 
  #9  
Old 09-19-2011, 12:16 PM
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What Cardnal said. It doesn't have any minerals in it. I have a jug of it for my windshield washer because won't leave streaks. They sell it in the grocery store for something like $1 a gallon. It's where the bottled water is.

The level in my battery was right at the lower line and just a fraction lower on the two chambers nearest the + terminal.
 

Last edited by D50boy; 09-19-2011 at 12:20 PM.
  #10  
Old 09-19-2011, 12:47 PM
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And I'll add that if you blind yourself or get hurt in any way attempting this, I'm not liable. Do this at your own risk!
 
  #11  
Old 09-23-2011, 09:22 AM
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And my last tank of gas......... 28 MPG. At least it starts.

I'm really not sure why my milage is sucking right now. Might be time to change the spark plugs but damn are they pricey for the OEM type.
 
  #12  
Old 09-23-2011, 10:36 AM
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MPG can vary based upon the alignment of the stars!!! I would have been surprised if charging the battery would have changed things for you. Kick back to your routine driving profile, it will most likely settle down.
 
  #13  
Old 09-23-2011, 11:49 AM
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I was actually trying to stretch it this last tank. Coasting to lights and down hills, no jackrabbit accelerations, no excessive idling, tire pressure is good, K&N is clean. I can usually get close to 35 when I try. Something is up. I was hoping it was the battery since that's the only thing that I can find that isn't perfect. I have been nuts about maintenance with this car. The valves were adjusted 30k ago, Mobil 1 is at 75% or so, rotation and alignment was last month. I was planning on swapping the spark plugs and cleaning the EGR when it hit 100K. I'm at 87K right now.
 

Last edited by D50boy; 09-23-2011 at 11:51 AM.
  #14  
Old 09-23-2011, 12:11 PM
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If you're coasting out of gear you are not helping the MPG. Injector cut-off

I'm half serious with the alignment of the stars... it is all about driving profile, however. Also, local fuel deliveries are not always the same.

You seem to be on track keeping everything current. At 87Kmiles a whole lot ain't perfect anymore, but like I've always said, "I may not be perfect, but parts of me are pretty damn good!"
 
  #15  
Old 10-04-2011, 12:35 PM
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A little update: the battery died anyway It left me and the family stranded for a bit waiting for a jump. This goofy size was only available at one Autozone in town and they only had 1 in stock. The sucker cost $160! GAH! I just about want to punch the guy who thought it would be a good idea to put the fuse on the + terminal. I had to take a hammer and pliers to it to make it work. I'll re-wire the terminal next weekend. Ugh!
 
  #16  
Old 10-04-2011, 12:52 PM
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Hammer and pliers and battery terminal is not a good combination... hope all goes well for you. What exactly was the issue?? I've pulled that connection with no problems.

Reminder - always pull the negative cable first AND always connect the positive first.
 
  #17  
Old 10-04-2011, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by D50boy
This goofy size was only available at one Autozone in town and they only had 1 in stock. The sucker cost $160! GAH!
FYI. OEM battery is cheaper at the dealer. Mine cost $99+.
 
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