Driver Door Lock issue
Driver Door Lock issue
Hey all,
Sorry for my first post to be a problem, but I've been lurking for years if it helps.
I've done quite a bit of searching on this issue, and I've stumbled across a handful of folks with a similar issue, but no resolution.
Basically, the driver side door lock has stopped functioning. When I insert the key, it feels like it's bottoming out before it goes in far enough to allow me to unlock. If I apply enough pressure, I can force it all the way in, but it still won't turn the lock over.
I've yet to try applying any grease to it, because it feels like it might be the cylinder giving our versus just a lack of lubricant. I avoided WD40 or anything of that nature as well, since it has a tendency to turn a surface "sticky".
Does anyone have any experience with this kind of problem? I've not yet taken it into the dealership for a quote for fear of some absurd cost to replace, and it feels like it might be something I could fix myself if I had the proper parts.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
EDIT: I should probably have specified this is a 2007 Base Fit with the 5A. No aftermarket anything (yet).
Sorry for my first post to be a problem, but I've been lurking for years if it helps.
I've done quite a bit of searching on this issue, and I've stumbled across a handful of folks with a similar issue, but no resolution.Basically, the driver side door lock has stopped functioning. When I insert the key, it feels like it's bottoming out before it goes in far enough to allow me to unlock. If I apply enough pressure, I can force it all the way in, but it still won't turn the lock over.
I've yet to try applying any grease to it, because it feels like it might be the cylinder giving our versus just a lack of lubricant. I avoided WD40 or anything of that nature as well, since it has a tendency to turn a surface "sticky".
Does anyone have any experience with this kind of problem? I've not yet taken it into the dealership for a quote for fear of some absurd cost to replace, and it feels like it might be something I could fix myself if I had the proper parts.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
EDIT: I should probably have specified this is a 2007 Base Fit with the 5A. No aftermarket anything (yet).
Last edited by Stromson; Dec 16, 2011 at 02:03 PM. Reason: Forgot Car config
I would go for the WD40. The tumbler is already sticky and the bad rap WD40 get's isn't always justified. You could give it a short blast, WD40 is know as a cleaner in other circles.
You're positive it's in the tumbler and not the linkage. Did you feel this coming on?
Give it a squirt, slide the key in and out to see if it frees up a bit. If so, then try turning it. Window up, don't over do it and keep it off the paint.
There is a locksmith on the forum - possibly he'll chime in.
You're positive it's in the tumbler and not the linkage. Did you feel this coming on?
Give it a squirt, slide the key in and out to see if it frees up a bit. If so, then try turning it. Window up, don't over do it and keep it off the paint.
There is a locksmith on the forum - possibly he'll chime in.
I've never had a problem with wd40 and I've used it for over 55 years. It's a great preventive to keep the locks from sticking in the winter, as an alternative to graphite which makes a mess. If you're getting corrosion, use Corrosion X. It isn't a lasting liquid and not really a lubicant, but it will get rid of corrosion anywhere... DC and AC motors, fans, locks, old TVs, etc.
It could be the linkage, I didn't think of that. I can't say that I really felt it coming on, but 20-20 hindsight it was a little bit "stickier" in the last few weeks before it ceased working completely. I'll go ahead and give WD40 a shot. Should I apply it to the key, or into the mechanism itself?
Okay, finally got some WD40 yesterday and gave it a go. I gave it two quick blasts, making sure I got the red tube in as far as I could (since the stoppage is near the end of the key hole). The key moves in slightly easier now, but I still have to give it a substantial amount of pressure to bottom it out. When trying to pull the key back out, I've noticed it's starting to pull the handle assembly along with it (that's how "stuck" it is).
This seems to indicate it's some mechanical problem with the mechanism. I'm still reluctant to take it to the dealership (out of warranty and all that), so I might try to track down a replacement part.
This seems to indicate it's some mechanical problem with the mechanism. I'm still reluctant to take it to the dealership (out of warranty and all that), so I might try to track down a replacement part.
A regular locksmith won't be able to do anything. You'll have to go to the Honda dealer and talk with them. They will need your proof of ownership, etc. to verify you are the owner.
Since you've already sprayed WD40, I would suggest spraying it just inside the lock and, if necessary, spray the key. It is normal for it to take some time to work the oil into all the moving parts.
I would resist spraying WD40 if no problem exists but hope you've already solved this. Let us know.
I would resist spraying WD40 if no problem exists but hope you've already solved this. Let us know.
Hey all,
Forgot my password and the site wouldn't send me the new one when I reset it, so just signed up via google. :-P Anyway! WD40 had zero effect in the long term. I tried several more times, made sure it hit the bottom of the lock, and sprayed the key. From what I can tell, the cylinder is shot.
The dealership said they'd have to replace the cylinder (didn't even ask for a quote, but I can't imagine it would be cheap), which would result in two keys (one for the door, one for the engine). I received a PM (Sorry, I can't recall your name!) from someone with the same story given to them.
Ultimately I'll be picking up an OEM keyless entry system, either from the dealer or online depending on what price I can find. Of course I'm trying to convince my wife to let me trade up for the 2nd Gen, but that's a different story for a different time.
Forgot my password and the site wouldn't send me the new one when I reset it, so just signed up via google. :-P Anyway! WD40 had zero effect in the long term. I tried several more times, made sure it hit the bottom of the lock, and sprayed the key. From what I can tell, the cylinder is shot.
The dealership said they'd have to replace the cylinder (didn't even ask for a quote, but I can't imagine it would be cheap), which would result in two keys (one for the door, one for the engine). I received a PM (Sorry, I can't recall your name!) from someone with the same story given to them.
Ultimately I'll be picking up an OEM keyless entry system, either from the dealer or online depending on what price I can find. Of course I'm trying to convince my wife to let me trade up for the 2nd Gen, but that's a different story for a different time.
Majestic Honda (the online parts store) had the keyless entry system for around $100 ($50 cheaper than my dealer quoted me). Bought it, received it within a week, and installed it two nights ago. So far it's working like a charm, and will serve as a workaround for the door issue for the indefinite future.
If anyone ends up going this route for their own 07 or 08 Base model, don't pay the dealer to install the entry system for you. It's super easy to do, and the only tools you need are a 10mm wrench and a decent set of plyers to disconnect the negative cable on the battery (make sure you have the anti-theft code for your radio - I didn't, and no have no radio until I get over to the dealership).
If anyone ends up going this route for their own 07 or 08 Base model, don't pay the dealer to install the entry system for you. It's super easy to do, and the only tools you need are a 10mm wrench and a decent set of plyers to disconnect the negative cable on the battery (make sure you have the anti-theft code for your radio - I didn't, and no have no radio until I get over to the dealership).
I know the post is a year old, but thought i would add my adventures with the lock issue.
Same problem. A healthy dose of WD-40 got the issue resolved for a few days, i followed it up with an abundance of brake cleaner sprayed into the lock and then dry lube. This worked for about 2 weeks, but now the cylinder isn't turning. I'm thinking one pin is still gunked up, and thought I would dive into pulling the tumbler to clean it out more tomorrow.
Same problem. A healthy dose of WD-40 got the issue resolved for a few days, i followed it up with an abundance of brake cleaner sprayed into the lock and then dry lube. This worked for about 2 weeks, but now the cylinder isn't turning. I'm thinking one pin is still gunked up, and thought I would dive into pulling the tumbler to clean it out more tomorrow.
I know the post is a year old, but thought i would add my adventures with the lock issue.
Same problem. A healthy dose of WD-40 got the issue resolved for a few days, i followed it up with an abundance of brake cleaner sprayed into the lock and then dry lube. This worked for about 2 weeks, but now the cylinder isn't turning. I'm thinking one pin is still gunked up, and thought I would dive into pulling the tumbler to clean it out more tomorrow.
Same problem. A healthy dose of WD-40 got the issue resolved for a few days, i followed it up with an abundance of brake cleaner sprayed into the lock and then dry lube. This worked for about 2 weeks, but now the cylinder isn't turning. I'm thinking one pin is still gunked up, and thought I would dive into pulling the tumbler to clean it out more tomorrow.
Just wondering, did you just get the keyless entry system for 100$? Because I looked at the installation guide from Honda, and they seem to have listed a few other parts also...
If I do get all those things listed here, it would come down to $212~, which is comparable to the cost of buying it in a dealership in Canada.
Just clarifying because I want to get this system as my driver side lock also fudged up (and for a while now... at least 1 year).
Thanks!
Other locations that sell this:
Honda parts world
College hill honda
Last edited by feerof; Aug 28, 2012 at 09:56 PM.
Late to chime in BUT just for the record the cylinder lock for the door can in fact replaced AND keyed to your key during the replacement. It is a tedious process for the technician to do if they've never done it before and/OR it is a mismatched lock/key being tailored for that cylinder. Any hint of needing "needing a new key" or "needing to get the accessory alarm" is just a plot/pitch for the service department to make more money in my honest opinion.
Late to chime in BUT just for the record the cylinder lock for the door can in fact replaced AND keyed to your key during the replacement. It is a tedious process for the technician to do if they've never done it before and/OR it is a mismatched lock/key being tailored for that cylinder. Any hint of needing "needing a new key" or "needing to get the accessory alarm" is just a plot/pitch for the service department to make more money in my honest opinion.
For what year?
Is that including the part (cylinder lock) and labor time for the lock and in the case of the keyless entry the part (module and etc.), install, and program?
And yes I believe so.
$230~ for parts and labour for keyless system
$100~ for just the keyless system (as indicated by stromson)
$200~ for parts and labour for replacement lock
$75~ just for the replacement lock
I don't remember the exact numbers but I do remember that the results were in favour of the keyless system.
What prices should I be looking at?
07
And yes I believe so.
$230~ for parts and labour for keyless system
$100~ for just the keyless system (as indicated by stromson)
$200~ for parts and labour for replacement lock
$75~ just for the replacement lock
I don't remember the exact numbers but I do remember that the results were in favour of the keyless system.
What prices should I be looking at?
And yes I believe so.
$230~ for parts and labour for keyless system
$100~ for just the keyless system (as indicated by stromson)
$200~ for parts and labour for replacement lock
$75~ just for the replacement lock
I don't remember the exact numbers but I do remember that the results were in favour of the keyless system.
What prices should I be looking at?
In the case of prices, it seems like you have the necessary info for an accurate quote on the job but answer your question and completely clarify...
Pretty much what I'd be looking to get an accurate idea of the total cost of the install/repair is...
The part cost (which you have) which will likely be at MSRP from the dealer, the amount of flag time the job should take (0.6 of an hour for lock itself, 0.5 for keyless surprisingly going from what Mitchell's labor estimator says), and the shop's hourly rate. You could get a better deal buying the lock or keyless system online if shipping isn't too pricey and having the dealer install it or haggle the dealer's parts department to match **insert site's** price.
You definitely don't need to pay $200 for the parts. Here is where I bought mine:
Honda Automotive Parts
The item is the very bottom one on that list, part 08E60-SLN-100. Don't worry, it said "May have been discontinued" when I bought it too. It obviously doesn't fix the lock (which is still broken on mine), but it was an acceptable work around for my situation.
Honda Automotive Parts
The item is the very bottom one on that list, part 08E60-SLN-100. Don't worry, it said "May have been discontinued" when I bought it too. It obviously doesn't fix the lock (which is still broken on mine), but it was an acceptable work around for my situation.
You definitely don't need to pay $200 for the parts. Here is where I bought mine:
Honda Automotive Parts
The item is the very bottom one on that list, part 08E60-SLN-100. Don't worry, it said "May have been discontinued" when I bought it too. It obviously doesn't fix the lock (which is still broken on mine), but it was an acceptable work around for my situation.
Honda Automotive Parts
The item is the very bottom one on that list, part 08E60-SLN-100. Don't worry, it said "May have been discontinued" when I bought it too. It obviously doesn't fix the lock (which is still broken on mine), but it was an acceptable work around for my situation.
I'm just confused why we need all the other options if the only thing we need is the 100$ 08E60-SLN-100 item.



