The bottom item is the only one you need and contains all requisite parts. The other items look to be if you need to replace a specific component of an existing system.

 

Oh... okay thanks for the clarification! =D

 

If anybody else reads this and you're located in Canada, try asking the dealership to price match the alarm system. They changed the P/N to 08E60-SLN-300. The price was reduced to 100$ MSRP. I got mine for 115. Cheers.

 

Mine is a 2009 base model with the same problem. I tried graphite rather than WD40. No lasting effect. What puzzles me is two things - one, sometimes if I pull the door handle up, something happens and the key goes in like its brand new. Key word being sometimes. The other question I have is that for a long time there had been a noise in the locking system when I use the door button to lock all the doors. Its like a high whine that I thought might be a vacuum issue. My concern is this - if I get a locksmith to replace the cylinder, which I would prefer over the keyless solution, well, i'm just not convinced the problem is the cylinder alone. My car has not yet 30,000 miles on it and i'm disappointed with Honda on this. Thanks for any help.

 

Don't worry about the whine from the locks... it is typical of the solenoids used in the lock system. I've heard them most on cold days. All my Hondas and my friends Hondas, with electronic locks, make those sounds... it's not air escaping. It's typical from my experience.

 

Note that the part # 08E60-SLN-100 seems to be listed as discontinued and hard to get online.

I phoned a local dealership parts department and they were able to locate one part in one of the remote warehouses. Since the car is so old (2007 Honda Fit base) they did a price match for whatever price I could quote from the online resources. They said the listed price was $200+ CND but agreed to sell to me for $105.50 as that is what I could find online at the time.

For those of you looking to buy this in Canada, the Canadian part # is
08E60-SLN-300, but is the same part # as -100.

Bottom line, if you can't find the part online phone your local parts shop and see if they can find any leftovers in stock. If they do, negotiate the price down.

 

Ehem-speaking as a locksmith, any locksmith that regularly does auto work should be able to fit a key to your existing combination and program it.

 

IMO, graphite just makes a mess and doesn't displace moisture, which is what WD40 is designed to do (important in cold weather). If you drive in a dusty environment, I would used a powdered teflon spray instead. Hondas use electric, not vacuum locks BTW.

 

Bring back an older topic.

Having the same issue with the key not turning. I have a sport so keyless came factory and this is a great work around until your battery dies completely, had to cut the hood latch Cable to get to the battery...

Anyways, anyone else having an issue or actual fixes aside from pulling the cylinder.

Thanks

 

Everything solved by using a NEW key. Guessing it's my original key that's worn out, not the locks.

The new key works the door lock and ignition perfectly.

 

ITs not hard to remove the door lock ,, carry in service to a locksmith to refurbish the thing is not usually too expensive, I had a Toyota cylinder done for 35 bucks.. The locksmith matches the new cyl to my old key, got the lock cyl on line for < 50 bucks.. YMMV

 

I'm in the same boat. Both doors and now the trunk lock too! I am really surprised that these parts wear out. This will be the 3rd time I am servicing these part (2009 fit).

 

My car has been like this for a few years. Last I checked dealer wanted $300+ to fix it. I just haven't locked my doors for a long time. Getting kind of tired of it. I've used every type of key grease/cleaner/ etc I could and nothing worked.

 

Worked for me too, on a 2008 model. The spare key that came when I purchased car works perfect! Just need to buy a new key. I tried couple different lubricants with old key and nothing worked. New and works like new.

 

Newbie here with my second Fit.

Reading all the responses in this thread, I got an idea of what to do next about my problem. Though I'd like any suggestions to help.


It​ rained pretty heavy a couple nights ago. Since then, the lock on the driver side keeps locking. When I try to unlock it from the inside, it locks immediately after. I have to time it to open it before it locks again. I cannot open it from the outside either. The key has a little trouble going in and when I go to turn it, it feels like it is resisting. Like it is constantly forcing itself into the lock position. I looked it up and have seen that it is most likely the actuator. I took it to aacouole of places and they said that I might have to get it from the dealership. I see them off of eBay though. I would like to know if this all sounds about right. I do want to see if a locksmith can further help with it it'd possible. I am trying to get all the help I can because I do not want to spend too much to fix the lock. Thanks.

​​​​

 

I have my second Fit. 2009 Base. First one saved my life (2010 Sport - and sacrificed itself) after a significant collision (with a wild boar who was just over the crest of a blind hill!) so I got a second...

Shortly after buying it from its first and only owner my key wouldn't go into the driver door lock. I tried the graphite powder, the WD, the jiggling an tapping, but no solution. Before I could get it repaired, a few days pass and now the key won't go into the ignition. Car wont start. Picked the brains of a few trusted mechanic friends who sent me in the direction of a locksmith and called a few and got a wide variety of diagnosis until they all directed me to one guy who knows his auto locks. And man, did he. He was a regular key guru, and fixed the problem, and here is the genius he imparted. I can't vouch for it except that I watched him do the work and he showed me every dang part of the process. It passed my test for no BS.

Honda uses locks that are made to very tight tolerances. Now that everything has a computer chip in it, the mechanical lock having such a tight tolerance isn't necessary, but que sera sera, Honda continues to use it.
The tight tolerance means that there's not a lot of room for things to wiggle, and at about ten years old, he's seen these locks go, almost like clockwork. (My car is a just past 10.)
If your key is worn, it doesn't engage perfectly with the tumblers (AKA wafers), the little puzzle pieces that slide away when your key is put into the right keyhole. When they aren't perfectly pushed out of the way they start to wear, and pretty soon your old worn key is wearing your lock cylinder parts and your lock cylinder parts are wearing your key further. This helps to wear all the locks you use your key for.

(If you look at your key and the tip is worn, if there is no tiny, flat "ledge", then it is guilty of this contagion. Go get a new one cut according to your VIN, pronto.)
He said humidity increases this problem, and in Hawai'i we have humidity. We also have a lot of old cars. After a rain or a bought of humidity he gets a bought of 10 or so Hondas in need, and then crickets until things get sticky again.

Also, before I called him and was still reading and fussing with this problem myself, I had an old fob from the first Fit and followed the instructions someone so kindly shared on a related thread, to hopefully add keyless entry to the 2009, (hoping to solve the door problem) to no avail. Two thoughts, first, make sure the battery is good (AKA red light goes on when you hit a button), second, pop open that fob. If there is only a black box inside, then you can't reprogram it without finding someone who has a computer that does it. If there is a tiny "pill" on the left near where the metal part of the key extends, then you are good to go and do it yourself. He explained that the existence of this "magic pill" this all depends, not on what year or base/sport option, but on what factory your car was made in. Living in Hawai'i we get cars from everywhere.

He says WD for sticky locks is fine, but only temporary, and graphite responds to humidity and will get sticky is best used when you have a lot of torque. Don't use it. These little, tiny, fussy Honda locks are not in the business of needing high torque. Lock tumblers don't require lots of force, they are very delicate, and prefer finesse. His best recommendation for long term slide was a lubricant that would only dry up and flake away, worst case. Forget the one he recommended. Just don't use graphite.

He came to my driveway where the stranded Fit stood in vain, rebuilt the ignition tumbler before my very eyes, reprogrammed the old key fob and granted the magic powers of keyless entry, and cut me a new key according to the lock code engraved onto the outside of the ignition lock cylinder (which you can only see when it is removed from the steering column). He placed the new key into the old fob, cut me a regular non-remote key as back up, and instructed me to never use my old back-up keys lest they start the problem all over again. $400, good to go. He said he could rebuild the door lock but since I now have a remote, he thought I should use it for a bit and see if I really care before I shell out another $150 so I can mechanically open my driver door with the key, which I doubt I will ever do again. (The dang dealer couldn't even tell me if a remote would work on my car and they offered to find out, AFTER I paid them $250 for a remote key...)
This locksmith was a good human. Amazing skills. Wish I could send him to all y'all who are stuck in the same boat as I was!

 

Honda did have an issue with the new Honda lock tumblers back in 2002-2008 era. The replacement TDS is posted on the CRV owners Group page but the free replacement period ha s run out. I bought a new key tumbler for my CRV driver door and replaced it myself because the stealership wanted too much to repair.

 

I realize this is an old thread, but this info might help anyone who reads it from now on. Given your VIN number, you can go on Honda's website and ask for their help.
They will ask some questions to establish you are the legit current owner. https://radio-navicode.honda.com/