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Door locking issue, need part info

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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 12:36 PM
  #1  
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Door locking issue, need part info

My 2007 is now randomly not locking with the fob. When it happens, if I hit the lock button like 4-5 times it'll finally lock. Both fobs have new batteries and all doors are closed. I also checked all the door switches, they all seem fine. From the info I've found on here the drivers door actuator is a known issue. Is the actuator the only part I need to replace to fix this issue? I'm looking here:

Honda Automotive Parts

If someone can confirm what parts I need I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm going to be taking the car in for the second window switch recall so while they have the panel off I might just have them change it.

Many thanks!
 
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:21 PM
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Anybody have any input?
 
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:33 PM
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... Have you tried using the lock button on the driver window controls to see if that its an actual issue with the locks/lock actuators/communication system themselves and not a potential signal issue?

Also, did you already go in for the initial re-inspection of the Power Window Master Switch that was put into action in the later part of this summer (this is not the plastic skirt for water)?
 
Old Dec 5, 2013 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Hootie
... Have you tried using the lock button on the driver window controls to see if that its an actual issue with the locks/lock actuators/communication system themselves and not a potential signal issue?

Also, did you already go in for the initial re-inspection of the Power Window Master Switch that was put into action in the later part of this summer (this is not the plastic skirt for water)?
Well my wife said she tried using the lock button but couldn't definitively same it held up or got stuck. She only tried it once. No, I haven't been in for the recall recall. I was under the impression it was for possible water infiltration again, are you saying it's not? I appreciate the help.
 
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 12:09 AM
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The window master switch recall and your issue with the locks might be the same.

It's best to get the recall done, because afterall, the issue with your locks might be coming from a liquid getting into the switch.

I know this may be stupid, but have you at least tried a new battery in your fob?
 
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by thelate1
Well my wife said she tried using the lock button but couldn't definitively same it held up or got stuck. She only tried it once. No, I haven't been in for the recall recall. I was under the impression it was for possible water infiltration again, are you saying it's not? I appreciate the help.
I see... No, this new recall just has the Power Window Master Switch replaced with a new unit that comes with a protective skirt on it from Honda. I'd take care of that first then diagnosis the lock issue afterwards.

If the locks work after the new switch was installed, great. If it doesn't, some researching will need to be done before replacing any parts in order to accurately correct this issue.
 
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 12:37 AM
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Not certain which model you have, but do the locks operate correctly using the key manually? Next, I would try the electric switch on the arm rest as others have suggested. Then, if you have the packaging that the batteries were in, check the freshness date.
 
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 01:59 AM
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Yes, as stated both fob batteries are new. My only reason for wanting to figure this out now is because I figured while the door panel was off for the switch to be swapped I could just have them replace the actuator or whatever. I faintly remember trying the inside lock switch when this first started and it wouldn't lock either. When this occurs, if I press the fob 2-3 times it'll eventually lock. It's just like it's hanging up for some reason. Again, it's random though. Somedays it'll do it once or twice, others none.
I'm kinda disappointed that this is happening at 70k already. I'm pretty sure the voltage regulator in the alternator is going bad as well because I've got the flickering light issue starting to. My 93 accord has 150k and I've never had any of this stuff fail. :/
 

Last edited by thelate1; Dec 6, 2013 at 02:03 AM.
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:22 PM
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Just to confirm, I tried locking the car from inside today and it wouldn't lock on the first press of the switch. All the locks made the noise as if they were trying but it took a second press for the drivers lock to go down which allowed all the rest to work then as well. I'm thinking this has to be actuator related, because this is happening with the fob and the switch.
 
Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by thelate1
Yes, as stated both fob batteries are new. My only reason for wanting to figure this out now is because I figured while the door panel was off for the switch to be swapped I could just have them replace the actuator or whatever. I faintly remember trying the inside lock switch when this first started and it wouldn't lock either. When this occurs, if I press the fob 2-3 times it'll eventually lock. It's just like it's hanging up for some reason. Again, it's random though. Somedays it'll do it once or twice, others none.
What switch are you talking about that requires the door panel to be removed? If you're referring to the Power Window Master Switch the tech just removes the armrest cover, not the entire door panel, to access the switch which pretty much pops off with a little effort.

Originally Posted by thelate1
Just to confirm, I tried locking the car from inside today and it wouldn't lock on the first press of the switch. All the locks made the noise as if they were trying but it took a second press for the drivers lock to go down which allowed all the rest to work then as well. I'm thinking this has to be actuator related, because this is happening with the fob and the switch.
That noise happen to be a squelch would it?
 
Old Dec 7, 2013 | 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Hootie
What switch are you talking about that requires the door panel to be removed? If you're referring to the Power Window Master Switch the tech just removes the armrest cover, not the entire door panel, to access the switch which pretty much pops off with a little effort.



That noise happen to be a squelch would it?
Oh, I thought the whole panel had to come off. I guess that takes care of that idea. The noise is just the usual sound the locks make as the actuators pull them down. As I said, if it was something in the lock switch that wouldn't make sense as to why it doesn't work with the fobs. It has to be the driver door actuator wouldn't you think?
Thanks!
 
Old Dec 9, 2013 | 11:00 AM
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All my door locks find but my driver door.. only works by hand, i tried with a new actuator but still no luck, recently theres a recall about the master lock panel, so imma try that out
 
Old Dec 9, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Eamper
All my door locks find but my driver door.. only works by hand, i tried with a new actuator but still no luck, recently theres a recall about the master lock panel, so imma try that out
Can anyone please confirm this or provide more info? I have an appt at Honda on Friday.
 
Old Dec 13, 2013 | 04:37 PM
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I wish someone could shed some light on this. I spent $175 to have honda change the drivers door actuator today. It worked fine till the car sat in the cold this afternoon. Three hours later it doesn't work again. It doesn't lock with the fob or the switch inside. They replaced the recalled drivers door switch so that is new as well.
 
Old Dec 27, 2013 | 05:52 PM
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Yea.. i just got my master switch replaced... no luck looks like i will have to check on the wires when is not as cold
 
Old Jan 31, 2014 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by thelate1
I wish someone could shed some light on this. I spent $175 to have honda change the drivers door actuator today. It worked fine till the car sat in the cold this afternoon. Three hours later it doesn't work again. It doesn't lock with the fob or the switch inside. They replaced the recalled drivers door switch so that is new as well.
I've had some problems with the electric door locks. It usually effects the driver's door. It occurs when you try to lock with the fob and you don't get the second press beep. Also occurs with the door locks trying to lock themselves as I start down the street. Instead of the usual clunk, you get a squeal and the driver's door doesn't lock. If you work the manual lock with the key in the drivers door back and forth repeatedly, the problem goes away for awhile. I plan on pulling the driver's door panel to lube the lock mechanism. I believe that the actuator is having a tough time pulling the manual linkage attached to the key lock on the driver's door.
 
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