I have an ’07 Fit Sport with 127k mi on it. Since about 70k I have had an occasional misfire at idle, when running AC, like most others I’ve seen here. Took it into dealer, mechanic advised that I needed valve adjustment, and CIL error code was low manifold pressure. $400 and two days later and still no improvement. It only occurred at idle, not while under power or at greater than 1k RPMs. Replaced spark plugs w/ NGK Iridium plugs, and seemed to smooth out for a while. Earlier this week, CIL came on. Since this has happened before with this issue, I was not entirely concerned. Then CIL began to flash and lost most of the power as engine was misfiring. Took it to nearby dealer and scanned codes to find misfire on 1-4, repeatedly. Replaced the plugs again, no change.

Here’s my question. Coil packs are made by Beck Arnley, Prenco, Hitachi, Standard, and Airtex. Does anyone have any recommendations? I would like to find a performance replacement, but I cannot find any aftermarket performance parts.

 

You might want to check out this thread https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tutter-20.html
I myself is looking into getting coil packs soon cause my Honda dealership can't mimic the symptoms I described and told them to check the coil packs.

 

Unfortunately, that thread does not answer the question fully. One user reports unsung the Beck Arnley, but that was only in Jan of this year. There’s not much price difference, so that’s not a major concern. I’ve tried new plugs with a lesser gap, as suggested in another thread, but with no success. I’ve had good experience with other Hitachi electronics, so I’m leaning in that direction. I just don’t what to have to drop $300 every 70K mi into new coils, cause that seems to be the case. I’ll be ordering them tonight, and will post progress in the coming week. I drive upwards of 3000 mi per month, so I rack up the miles quickly.

 

I purchased the updated OEM coilpack (they have what looks like a little drain on the back), and have not had any more problems. I recently purchased the car, but I noticed one of the other coilpacks had been replaced with the updated OEM, also.

The one that went dead was original with 130k on it.

 

I've been having the same problem and I have 73k on my OD. I'm so sorry to hear you dropped the dough on the valve job. My dealership cut me off before I finished explaining my issues that it's most likely my valve clearances are too tight, which doesn't make sense. The tech heard "misfire" and ignored "backfire." Just trying to screw me outta money.

Does anyone have any tips on how to locate the bad coilpack? I've seen guys pull bad ones and look for changes in engine RPMs but with the Fit's little 4 cylinder I'm not sure if I'd be able to do it this way, as my issues are so subtle except for an occaisional stall at a red light or a random backfire if I try to rev-match too quickly when downshifting.

I think if I pulled a coil pack it would stall out on each one regardless, heh. I've read you can use a multimeter but I don't have access to one. I'm thinking about purchasing one, and found an OEM coilpack for $40 at some place down the street.

 

Coil pack is on it's way out.

 

I have a 2008 sport. Multiple misfires on cyl. 3 & 4. To add to the problem I have to warm up the car for more than five minutes otherwise the car stalls out. Number four has 45 pounds less pressure but when it warms up the pressure returns and runs fine. Replaced the plugs three times, coil packs on 3/4. New injector on four. Car runs well after warmup but still getting misfires on 3/4. Mech
Recommends new motor...$$$ Has Honda acknowledged that there is problem with this car?

 

The simplest answer for you is to get your values adjusted. I had the EXACT same issue. I had warm up my car and if I didn't the car would stall or die.

Go to a honda dealership and they should only charge you around $200 or less. From what honda told me is that our cars have a tendency of causing misfires but who knows why

If they ask why you want the value adjusted. Just tell them that you want that service only!

 

I advise against wasting your money on a valve adjustment unless your valves are audibly loud. Loud, as in loud tapping. That is what the service manual recommends - to only adjust them if they are loud. The service manual does not recommend adjusting valves because you have thrown codes or misfires. Lastly, the logic behind troubleshooting misfires with a valve adjustment isn't there.

 

I finally did what your mechanic recommended and replaced my engine. But, from what I've read on this problem you should first try replacing ALL coil packs and make sure all plugs are in good condition. A similar problem occurred on my Odyssey with various, unrelated codes. Coil pack replacement fixed the problem and no more codes.

 

You wanna tell me that value adjustments aren't recommended and are only recommended when you hear loud noise? That's pretty dumb if you were to believe that. I had his same issue! Did the spark plugs and ignition coils WITHOUT doing any diagnostics because diagnostics gives you a code that's true but how much do you spend to do that?

Value adjustment has been recommended on these forum and it helped a lot of people.

Please read this thread:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=73607

 

Can't understand your paragraph because its full of contradictions. I've read this board on misfiring for the past two years and not once has a valve adjustment been shown as culprit. Its coil packs and possibly something else. Valve adjustment is a safe start in troubleshooting because it eliminates that issue, psychologically, but it is expensive and unnecessary.

 

On the two GD3s that I worked on, the clearances on both were too tight, not loose. Neither Fit produced a "loud tapping noise." From what I have read, valve clearances tend to close as the miles rack up, not open. Apparently "valve recession" causes the valve lash to diminish. When the lash becmes too tight, the valves do not fully close, and compression readings start to drop. Continued operation in this condition may result in burnt valves and/or valve seats. After learning of this, my feeling would be to perform the manufacturer's recommended valve adjustments even before "Loud tapping noise" conditions arise.

 

I changed all of my coils with duralast ones from autozone. Good price and lifetime warranty. Might as well replace all of them so you do t have to go back and forth in the future. Hitachi only has 1 year warranty. Did the valve adjustment and my stutter from stop and go went went away.