i've had this reoccurring problem with my 2007 Honda Fit. i start it up, and then say i drive like 100 ft and if I have to stop at a stop sign or red light or something, the car turns off. it will usually turn off unless i keep my foot on the gas to some extent. once the car warms up, i can make stops without having to worry that it will turn off. it happens usually right when i start it up after not driving it for a day or something. if i start it up and keep driving continuously (like don't have to stop), its not a problem. i don't think it's a battery issue- just got that replaced a few months ago. was planning on taking it in but thought i'd run it by the forum first to get a sense of what i might be dealing with. thanks in advance!

 

Same problem I and lots of others have had. What fixed it for me was having the valves checked and changing the plugs.

See this thread: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...clearance.html

 

A valve adjustment should fix that.

 

thanks doctordoom and leandro. you were spot on. took it in and my valves were too tight. the honda dealership quoted me around $400 for the job. If I put this repair off for another 2-3 months until i have the funds and keep driving it, do you have any sense of whether that would be permanently damaging to the vehicle?

 

You may burn the valves. If you wait too long it could end up costing you more (than the quoted $400).

How did they determine that the valves were too tight? I doubt they took the valve cover off... If they did, they should have just adjusted that lash.

My local dealership (Toronto area) charges $210 for a valve lash adjustment, so you may want to shop around.

 

Almost every single Fit checked for valve adjustment have exhaust valve clearance that is way too tight almost down to non-existent. Very common problem.

 

kapeesh: the report said "viewed map sensor reading. valve was showing real high and that indicated the calves are too tight and need to be readjusted"

got another quote today for $300. a seemingly honest mechanic told me today there might be an easier fix though. he said that a 2007 car shouldn't need a valve adjustment this early in its life. what might be happening is there's a lot of build up from using crappy fuel. so apparently, if we buy 2 bottles of Techron, fuel system cleaner, and put that in that twice (one bottle with each tank of gas). that might clean everything out and fix the valves.

 

That "mechanic" is not very informed about Fits. Anywhere around 50,000 miles many many Fits need a valve adjustment. There are many threads about a valve adjustment curing your particular problem it's even a sticky read it and learn.

 

This is correct.

How many miles are on your Fit? People are having this issue anywhere from 50k-100k miles. Some even earlier than that. So basically, it can happen anytime.

Don't waste your time with that BS about crappy fuel, techron, fuel injector cleaner, seafoam, etc. It never solved anyone's issues. They just think the problem is fixed and then come back within a week saying nothing has changed. Dealerships and mechanics that don't know what is going on always suggest this as a fix. Sometimes they say they need to purge your fuel system and give you a fresh tank of gas too, hogwash.

If you really want to try the fuel injector stuff, go for it. But please check back in to let us know if it solved your problem (like a week later, not just the same day, or the next day).

 

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...t-started.html

Here's a recent example. If you search the forums (use Google to search, it's better), you'll find plenty of threads on this issue. There have been at least 10-15 cases with symptoms exactly like yours documented on these forums since 2006. The chances are overwhelming that you need a valve adjustment.

Here's a basic breakdown:

You need a valve adjustment if: On cold starts, the car may idle roughly/shudder (minor cases) or may even stall (more severe cases). This is caused by the valve clearances being out-of-spec. The more out-of-spec they are, the more severe the symptoms. The stalling and/or rough idle may go away after the engine warms up a little bit, which can take as little as 100 feet of driving, or as much as however far you get before you stall once or twice. That's because the engine warms up and the temperature change affects the clearances (because materials expand due to heat). This is rarely, if ever, accompanied with a check engine light. Properly adjusted valves are within spec both when the engine is cold and when warmed up to operating temperature, so will idle smoothly at all times. This is why manufacturers' valve clearance specifications are designated for when the engine is cold, to ensure that they will be within spec when the engine is warmed up as well.

You need coilpacks if: Engine temperature doesn't make a difference. You get misfiring upon acceleration, far after you've started the car. The misfire is often more pronounced when accelerating in 4th or 5th gear (aka at 35+ mph or so, most people notice this at highway speeds). Often this is accompanied with a check engine light and engine misfire codes.

These are like the 2 MAIN problems people ever have with the 2007-2008 aka GD3 aka first-generation Fit.