So my 2007 fit has 155k miles on it and for the last two months my car will sputter and jerk like crazy it seems to do it worst when coming off a red light or just driving at a normal speed down the highway. It's gets so bad sometimes I could put the pedal all the way to the floor and it just doesn't want to go and then all of a sudden it kicks in. Also the check engine light stays on and will blink when it's happens. My mechanic check the code and said he saw nothing. Spark plug coils has been replaced. Any ideals?

 

scan the code and post it here dead miss in one cylinder usually sign of the bad coil pack especially if jerking issue is not disappeared after car warms up.
It is also possible that something was screwed up during spark plug change

 

I'm having this exact same problem and I have about 152k on my 2007 Fit. All of the coil packs have been replaced and I still lose power once the car gets up to highway speeds. The car is back in the shop to see if any of the new parts have defects.

Were you able to resolve this issue?

 

There are no defects. Did you do a valve adjustment? Mine was doing it at 92k miles and I thought it was coil packs and spark plugs. Turns out the valves needed to be adjusted (they need to be adjusted at 100k anyways!) and once I did it, my car ran like a champ again. No more stalling/sputtering and random flashing check engine light.


I'm at 193k miles now and about to do another one.

 

The mechanic suggested that this could be an issue however he estimated that replacing/adjusting the valves would be a $3000-fix. The car is barely worth that much.

Some people make valve adjustments sound easy. Is it?

 

Also just a new member on the forums, no experience here, but it can't be that a valve adjustment is a $3000 fix. Replacement maybe, but would it need that?

 

Yeah, that's what I gathered from the mechanic. I trust this mechanic (he's actually not charging me for the new coils unless they solve the problem) and I don't think he's trying to rip me off.

Does anyone know about how much adjusting the valves would cost?

 

Adjusting valves is maybe a $400 job at the dealership. About $20 to do it yourself.

 

Yeah, unless you have burned valves (fails a compression test), they just need adjustment. (Burned valves are NOT common because the poor running causes owners to act!)


What was the $20 for, domoMKIV? Beer? LOL

 

Ok, so I brought the car back to the mechanic today and, after looking at it, he said the code for the catalytic converter was set off (probably because of the misfiring). Should I be worried about that? I hope no serious damage was done.

Anyway, they are now adjusting the valves. If this doesn't work, I will have to cut my losses and get another car (heavy sigh).

 

What code did the mechanic find?


Often, only the pre-Cat sensor needs to be replaced. But, it depends on the code...and also, how long you tolerated the misfires.

Misfires (which result in unburned gasoline) make the Cat work overtime. The unburned fuel can also gunk up the main O2 sensor and cause it to be inaccurate.

 

I don't know what code it was but he didn't seem to think it was serious (and I was, honestly, afraid to ask). The misfiring only started two days ago.

 

I want to update this post in case anyone has any suggestions for me.

I picked my car up from the mechanic yesterday after he adjusted the valves. he was very confident that he found the problem since two out of the four exhaust valves were not opening as wide as they should have been.

I took the car for a test drive and the car operated like-new for about 20 minutes, particularly at low speeds (the car had great power and the gears shifted smoother than ever). But then, I decided to turn back home. I got off at the nearest highway exit, took the on-ramp in the opposite direction and, as soon as I got up to 65 mph, the car shuttered, the check-engine light began to flash and I wasn't able to accelerate.

Let me be clear, since this problem first began, the mechanic replaced all of the coils, all of the spark plugs and adjusted the valves. I am still having this problem!

I took the car back to the mechanic today. He suggested that the earlier misfiring damaged the cat, which is restricting exhaust flow. He's going to do a thorough test without the cat on.

I don't have my hopes up anymore. Anyone have any ideas??

 

If you already have the feeler gauges and hondabond then you could definitely spend that $20 on beer instead!

 

What's the code(s) the car is throwing?

 

So, GREAT NEWS, my mechanic fixed the problem.

But, first, to answer your question, the car was giving me P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304.

I'm going to write a separate post about this just in case someone else experiences the same issue.

In the end, it was not the spark plugs or the coils (but which needed to be replaced anyway) and it was not the valves (which also needed adjusting anyway). The actual source of the problem was the "Fuel to Air Ratio Sensor" (aka oxygen sensor), which was malfunctioning and giving the engine the wrong mix of fuel and air, causing misfiring--particularly under high load.

Now, I don't know much about cars, but it's a mystery to me why I wasn't getting a code for a sensor malfunction. Shouldn't than happen if the sensor isn't working right? Or maybe the sensor wasn't broken enough to get picked up by the ECU?

Anyway, by replacing the sensor ($275), the car works like new.

Like I said, I'll write a detailed post about this and post a link to this thread.

Whew, I am so relieved!!

 

here it is: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...-resolved.html