Fit DIY: Repair & Maintenance Threads discussing repairs and maintenance you can do yourself

Coil packs removal

Old May 1, 2015 | 05:28 AM
  #1  
keithvassallo's Avatar
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From: Lija
Coil packs removal

Hi I am new here. My FIT is misfiring, and after some research I wanted to try and check the coil packs, however it seems pretty impossible to access the back of the engine. what is the best procedure to do this? my thoughts are, removing the plastic trim that is directly under the hood. any suggestions please?

thanks
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 09:15 AM
  #2  
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Hi
On a 2007-2008 fit, theres no need to remove anything, just take a small rachet with a 10 mm head and a extension and you should have enough room to acess the coil pack bolt. Its really easy to do. Im waiting after the part to change mine, this car is not fun to drive with missfire!
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 02:07 PM
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From: Lija
Originally Posted by jean-seb
Hi
On a 2007-2008 fit, theres no need to remove anything, just take a small rachet with a 10 mm head and a extension and you should have enough room to acess the coil pack bolt. Its really easy to do. Im waiting after the part to change mine, this car is not fun to drive with missfire!
then I guess my FIT is not a first generation cause it seems fairly impossible to do so without removing anything from the car. How can I know whether it's a first or second generation model. And, if it's the second generation, what tips would anyone give, for coil removal?
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 03:39 PM
  #4  
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Easy. You do know you posted in 1st gen forum. The 1st generation fit had a long run starting everywhere but in the USA in 2001. It finally arrived here in 07 to 08. You got the best model of 1st generation because of extra things like TPMS and other little things. Tips and awesome platform to mod on a budget. PM me if you like.
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 03:51 PM
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For a 2007 2008 Fit you only require a 10mm socket and ratchet. It is one bolt holding each coil back in to the engine.

What year is your Fit?
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 04:04 PM
  #6  
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Arrow

Originally Posted by GinoLicious
For a 2007 2008 Fit you only require a 10mm socket and ratchet. It is one bolt holding each coil back in to the engine.

What year is your Fit?
it's a 2008, but space seems really limited. you cannot actually see what you are doing, can you?
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 04:06 PM
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You are a GD3.

You do not have to remove anything to gain access to the coil packs.

I strongly suggest you use an extension for your ratchet. Approach your car from the side and look, you will see the 4 bolts holding in each coil pack. One for each. It is a little tight but extremely easy to do and is not as tight as you think. This should take you no more than 15 minutes to take out and replace all 4.
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by GinoLicious
You are a GD3.

You do not have to remove anything to gain access to the coil packs.

I strongly suggest you use an extension for your ratchet. Approach your car from the side and look, you will see the 4 bolts holding in each coil pack. One for each. It is a little tight but extremely easy to do and is not as tight as you think. This should take you no more than 15 minutes to take out and replace all 4.
what is a 'GD3'?
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 04:11 PM
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GD3 is the generation of your car. You are a 2008 therefore a GD3. It simply means the last model out of the first generation of the vehicle.

GKs are the 2015 and up models.
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 04:15 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by GinoLicious
GD3 is the generation of your car. You are a 2008 therefore a GD3. It simply means the last model out of the first generation of the vehicle.

GKs are the 2015 and up models.
thanks for the great info, i shall give it a try in the morning.
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 04:23 PM
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Remember, your coil packs are on the back side of the motor. Not under the plastic motor cover you had mentioned earlier.

You will see all 4 coil packs closest to the firewall of the vehicle on the backside of the motor.
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 04:39 PM
  #12  
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From: Lija
Originally Posted by GinoLicious
Remember, your coil packs are on the back side of the motor. Not under the plastic motor cover you had mentioned earlier.

You will see all 4 coil packs closest to the firewall of the vehicle on the backside of the motor.
the plastic that I mentioned, I meant the plastic that lies just under the hood, the one that covers the wiper motors, that's why I said it's so tight. mine has an I-Vtec engine
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by keithvassallo
the plastic that I mentioned, I meant the plastic that lies just under the hood, the one that covers the wiper motors, that's why I said it's so tight. mine has an I-Vtec engine
You do not remove that.

There is no need.
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 04:57 PM
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ok, thanks
 
Old May 2, 2015 | 08:02 AM
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spark replacement done. I went ahead and removed the plastic trim and the wiper motor assembly right from the start. I figured an extra 15 mins were well worth the time, for the extra space that I gained. Changed the plugs to 'Denso' as I could not find 'NGK' replacement. seems to be working fine now.
I do not think there was a coil problem cause the loss in power only occurred while accelerating and not while idling. only time will tell
thank you all for the help.
 
Old May 2, 2015 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by keithvassallo
I do not think there was a coil problem cause the loss in power only occurred while accelerating and not while idling. only time will tell.
What you described is the textbook description of a coilpack issue for our cars - misfire when the engine is under load. More pronounced when accelerating at low RPM, with the A/C on, going uphill, and/or with extra load in the car.

It should gradually get worse in the next 1-2 years.
 
Old May 6, 2015 | 11:37 AM
  #17  
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warning

If you car is miss firing don't keep driving it. Why?, Well mine started miss firing during this past winter. I order replacement coil packs which took about 5 days to get then I waited a few more day until it warmed up to about 25F to change the coils. By this time mine was miss firing quite a bit. At that point it set an engine code which turned out to be O2 sensor code.Well It ended up clogging the O2 sensor ruining it. I had to replace the front O2 sensor too. that was another 135 bucks down the drain. There is a thread on my problem some were here.
 
Old May 6, 2015 | 12:33 PM
  #18  
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Thanks for the advise. I changed the plugs and all seems back to normal now, hopefully. We'll see how it goes from here.
 
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