lol, i know i was kidding.

i'm not trying to wiggle, just showing that i'm not hating spoon parts. i'm hating low temp thermostats/switches. hence i mentioned Mugen cuz they also make it.

 

hey claymore how much horsepower did you make with the thermostat? you must be making huge power numbers to be arguing this much! my buddy just got one and now his car rips!!! he must have made like 60HP!
i dont care what others say Spoon thermostats are the shit!
where did you get yours at? didnt you get yours from an EG6?? oh wait,, the fit has a "SEPARATE AND UNIQUE ENGINE," do they have separate and unique thermostats too?

 

That pic of your gauges sure looks like your car is not moving. What happens when you start moving…….do you think the air hitting your radiator might cool your engine down even more……………

Some old argument over the same old combination of mods. I have seen this topic covered time and time again on all types of Hondas. I will just hold of until someone has done some datalogging with these parts on a street driven Fit because one pic of some crappy Auto Meter gauges is not going to convince me that the evidence I have see over the years does not apply to this particular car. Let the datalogging begin!!!

 

More datalogging, less shit talking!

Seriously though, we need data to disprove what has been proved on different cars. The concept remains the same across the cars. If for some reason, the Fit is completely different, give me data to show that. Otherwise I'm gonna keep believing what is true for the rest.

 

For me at least, I would prefer to see hard data. I would like to see hard proof that backs up a statement instead of just the statement itself. Even a video of you driving would be helpful. But to only see a single picture of the car sitting somewhere and you say that is the temp isn't enough for me.

 

Sorry but the comments you made and the way you have made them to others in the this thread and the fact that you’re not open minded enough to comprehend other peoples past experiences has put me in the position were I’m not going to trust or believe one thing you have to say on this site.

Like I said before, I will just wait for someone to post some more concrete evidence on how these parts work on this car.

 

You know, its almost like daytime television. "As the FitFreaks turns". DRAMA

 

Keeps things intersting when I'm bored at work.

 

Yo doubters, madtownfit, darkcambria, and quangalang, check THIS OUT

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/aj-r...fit-japan.html

Look in the specs Aj even sent his car half way around the world to get his low temp thermostat installed "datalogging, datalogging GOOD Mechanics don't need no stinking datalogging".

Hummmm...

Spoon, J's racing, AJ racing and ME vs madtownfit, darkcambria, joey and quangalang .... who you gonna call????

There is no mystical tuner magic to low temperature thermostats and fan switches. It's simple physics if you guys had been awake in class you would have known that a colder intake charge, and colder head due to lower operating temperatures make the charge more dense therefore you can add more fuel therefore you make more power per each ignition event easy peasy.

So you guys going to send a warning or sarcastic post to Aj warning him not to bother installing worthless parts or requesting his datalogging or perhaps you can send the message to J's racing letting them know not to bother making these parts

And you don't even have to send you car all the way to japan you can do it right in your own driveway much cheaper

"trust the old been there done that guys grasshopper"

 

Thanks for telling me something I already knew.

Speaking of dense, there are someone people on this site, in including your self, that are just to “dense”, not open minded and just can’t think for themselves. It’s these people that can not see the point that a few others and my self tried to make.

On some applications these parts might work just fine. My experience and example, witch was not on a Fit, the thermostat and switch did not allow my car to reach its proper operating temp. The parts did work just fine for me when I had my car on tracks like Gingerman, etc.

The point I was trying to make was to caution people that might have just a few mods, i.e. I/H/E, that adding these cooling parts might not do you any good, if not hinder your performance without you knowing it.

BTW, nice quote “trust the old been there done that guys grssshopper” that quote fits me whether you like it or not. There are plenty of people that trust me and know I’m not just some young punk jumping on this modifying Hondas band wagon. I’m not going to fill people on the forums with a bunch of B.S.

 

again, madtown and i only stated words of caution. its the owners' discretion whether or not they want to toss such things on their cars.

 

My opinion this will work in some cars and some cars not. It will work good in FIT because it runs hot. I drive City which sedan type to Fit, don't think will need this mod, because I have a bigger radiator than the Fit, and the engine bay is bigger than Fit bay, so more air flow, to cool the engine. Maybe you should use that in very hot climate, like where Calymore lives.

 

to me, AJ's car was pretty much done all the "show" mods modding up for JDM bling. If he's selling the parts, of course he's gona have to promote them.

Screw datalogging? I can see now why you are not very knowledgeable in performance modifications. Ask AJ-R how they are tuning their turbo kits for the Fit. I'm sure they'll say they datalogged every run. Good mechanics dont always do a good job. i know this first hand.

Want a cooler head and IAT's? Slap on the thermal intake manifold gasket. Get a vented hood. Having the fan on earlier will also add more unnecessary calculated load value to your engine. Engine will need to work harder to run the fan. (want me to show you hard evidence on this? cuz i can) Added unnecessary load to the engine during city driving will only impede gas mileage. If u're already running a/c, the fan is on anyways. So still a useless mod.

Assuming the low temp stat/switch doesnt affect closed loop, it will still be running harder, therefore, generating more heat and canceling out anything you possibly cooled.

You cannot base your ECT readings on a non moving car. ECT's are already pretty cool when u're cruising. (190* max @ 60mph) Air is getting forced in and channeled to the necessary areas already. Even runs a bit cooler when raining out or cooler weather.

still questioning Hondata's race capability? they recently released details of their project that had been under wraps for so long.
Hondata - Cars

and a nice video to go along with it
http://hondata.com/cars/rsx_landspee...65_mph_run.mp4

 

I think the Thermostat would work well in a HOT climate like ours (Southeast Asia, Middle East, etc) where the temps range from 31-50 degrees celsius. (Its usually 32-42 here in Manila) and most cars are stuck in traffic all day which further raises engine temperatures.

Basically in my experience the cooler thermostat allows engines in hot climates to "endure" longer.

I dont think you guys in colder countries need an upgraded thermostat because you guys are blessed with colder air already which does the job for you and im sure the traffic aint as bad over there as here (you stay in the same place or stay crawling in 1st gear for 1.5-2 hours or even longer).....Unless of course you guys run a high HP turbo engine on the track all the time

 

i'm willing to leave the decision up to the car owners. Usually, the car would be manufactured in a way to endure and handle specific areas and climates. ie. different octane requirements for certain countries, etc. In hotter temps, Honda may have programmed the car to activate the fan a tad sooner.

All summer long it has been constant 90-110*F (same temp range as yours) + LOTS of humidity in Houston. We wear shorts in the winter , but the next day may snow. (wacky houston weather) I have IATs of 175*, but ECT's still remain 195-200 range. And yes, Houston has one of the worst traffic jams in Texas. i doubt any natural climate can really cause the car to overheat given a working cooling system. And if u're stuck in traffic, i assume you're running your A/C, which already turns the fan on. Therefore, rendering the switch almost useless if you use your a/c a lot.

But in the end of the day, its still your decision and your car. Will it break your car? Absolutely not. Will there be any positive/negative effects? Yes and No, it has been proven to be negative for other Hondas, and i wouldnt be surprised if it causes the same negative effects on the Fit. Yes, you could run slightly cooler than stock and be just dandy. Your discretion to take the risk or not. The info is there.

 

Joey joey joey you showing your ignorance yet again. MAYBE MAYBE if you ever actually worked on a Fit or even read the repair manual you wouldn't be putting your foot in you mouth yet again try working on atleast one Fit before you try to tell others what to do when working on one.

The question was datalogging for MY car which has gauges there is no need for datalogging when the operator can SEE THE GAUGE AND KNOW WHAT TEMPERATURE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING AT INSTANTLY JUST BY LOOKING AT THE GAUGE.... no need to wait and look at datalogging when that data is already available to the operator.

And a thermal plastic gasket what a joke if you ever worked on a fit you would know the intake manifold runs over the ENGINE BLOCK TO BE HEATED BY THE RADIANT ENGINE HEAT so what good would this gasket do when the intake is being heated by the engine??

And joey what is this crap your making thing up again joey your nose is going to grow

"more unnecessary calculated load value to your engine. Engine will need to work harder to run the fan. (want me to show you hard evidence on this? cuz i can) Added unnecessary load to the engine during city driving will only impede gas mileage. If u're already running a/c, the fan is on anyways. So still a useless mod."

Ah joey the fan is run by electric power not the engine so there is no such thing as your mystical "unnecessary load value" quit trying to use big terms that mean nothing. And your still incorrect the fan DOES NOT Run all the time even with the A/C on you should know that you cried in my post when I gave out the data about fan use ages ago I guess you forgot.

Who is basing ECT on a non moving car???????? Not me that was a post ABOUT THE PHOTO OF MY GAUGE NOT ANYTHING ABOUT ECT. I took that photo during my installation of gauges because I didn't want to DRIVE and take the photo at the same time. I know my temperature all the time just by looking at the gauge and it runs just fine at 180-185 ALL THE TIME unless I idle for more than 20 minutes I have already told you that I guess your forgot yet again.

"Assuming the low temp stat/switch doesnt affect closed loop, it will still be running harder, therefore, generating more heat and canceling out anything you possibly cooled."

What will be working harder???? This is a stretch even for you.

And wow they built two whole cars that sure is a lot of experience. BTW how many parts on the cars were made by hondata???

 

lmaooo. this argument is hilarious. I read like every post. I now have a temp gauge installed on my car. Maybe i should get the spoon thermostat n record my gauge to see what kinda temp's im getting. Anybody want to donate a thermostat to me? =]

 

YEA please do it now!!!!

 

The difference between joey and myself is I base all my posts on DIRECT KNOWLEDGE all joey does IS MAKE "WAGS" (wild a** guesses) joey has NO DIRECT KNOWLEDGE WHAT SO EVER of what he is trying to say because HE HAS NEVER INSTALLED A LOW TEMPERATURE THERMOSTAT AND FAN SWITCH IN A FIT/JAZZ. I on the other hand see the results DAILY while I drive my car. I know what I'm posting about because I've done it myself.

Joey is full of guesses and suppositions he can't make logical posts because he doesn't have the knowledge to talk about something he has NEVER DONE.

And the untrue off the wall statement about the fan being on all the time just shows how little he knows about the Fit/Jazz. I again base my posts on DIRECT KNOWLEDGE because I have an indicator light that I installed myself connected to the fan circuit so I KNOW EVERY TIME I DRIVE MY CAR WHEN MY FAN IS RUNNING EVERY TIME IT GOES ON, AND WHEN IT GOES OFF AS INDICATED BY THE LIGHT unlike joey I'm not GUESSING I have already done the work while joey just makes up these stupid guesses on his part not backed by any direct knowledge because he has NEVER WORKED ON A FIT/JAZZ.

 

blah blah blah, say wat you want. its funny how you make useless mods as wrapping your intake manifold but the source of the heat is DIRECTLY connected to the head. radiant heat does not heat up the IM as much as heat from the head itself. the thermal gasket prevents heating up the IM which in turn heats up your air charge. Its universal knowledge now that thermal gaskets are more effective than any heat wrapping. Get with the times, Pops. Comptech, PasswordJDM, Hondata, and other companies have found this method to be very effective and they market the gaskets. Its used on all cars, even non-Hondas.

hook up an OBD2 reader and link with it. you're looking for CLV %. You think electricity comes from no where? hmm...what generates the electricity for the fan motor Clayboy? Check the %'s when ur fan goes on and off. higher CLV=more load=engine has to work harder to accommodate that load by adding more fuel.

What are you talking about? i told YOU that the fan doesnt always come on with a/c. It when the a/c clutch is activated, thats when the fan kicks on. The clutch comes on/off whenever its needed. But most of the time during cruising the city, yes, the fan is on. Esp when its hot out. Its funny, you say you read your readings via Autometer gauges, Autometer is notoriously known to read inaccurately, sometimes only a slight bit. So dont expect your little autometer to give your accurate numbers in real-time. Use an OBD2 Actron scan tool. It'll tell you real ECT in real time. Compare that to your gauge. My max boost is set at 17psi, autometer gauge reads it at 20psi, MAP sensor says its 17psi on the dot, dyno's pressure sensor says its 17psi also. Hmm...which is more dependable? Also, depending on where you tap the sender for the gauge, it could be reading only the cooler coolant, even if u did a before/after stat/switch. You're still not reading the ECT that the block sees.

do me a favor, provide me evidence that your ECT gauge correlates to your Autometer via OBD2 scan tool and get a snap shot of it. That will rule out any doubts i have about your beloved gauge.

I guess i cant share COMMON knowledge cuz i dont work on a Fit eh? meh who's gona stop me? Reader's choice whether or not to listen to me or not. You believe you're basing everything you say from direct knowledge of performance modifications? i beg to differ. Do something significant with your Fit and prove to me that you have enough knowledge to do something right instead of bickering and defending your useless thermostat mod. Your credibility is just as nil as mine, and i no longer have a Fit. But what credibility do you have? From just turning a few wrenches on your Fit and doing little mods that practically ANYONE can do, you can gain VAST knowledge enough to discredit me? You're just lucky that i no longer have a Fit, cuz i could've certainly outdone you in every way.