boosting is easy, but what else is needed for the lil fit to take all that new found power?

I know a new/better clutch is in need, but what else? how much power can the OE Axles take? etc etc

lets get this sort out before some people snap their axles on their "just boosted" fit.

 

The old D-series axles were fine up to roughly 250-ish hp. I'd think unless you planned on doing some consistent hard launching, the Fit's axles should be fine for awhile. Still, it's probably something I'd upgrade, but it ain't cheap. When DSS did my axles they were a couple grand I think. Then again, they were for a K20 into an MR-S, so I dunno what the Fit's would cost.

I'd upgrade the clutch and get an LSD before the axles.

 

new, stiffer motor mounts, clutch, lsd and some axles are a good start. also, an oil cooler, some colder spark plugs and some better engine oil.

 

what axles would work on the fit?

for me, Clutch is a must, it feels weak to begin with, and after that, it's either axle upgrade or an gear type lsd. I would like to have LSD to help with traction, but if I can't get the power to the wheels, then traction would be the last thing I need to worry about...

 

More boost?
Im maxed out on my Mx-6. 20psi daily.... WoooWOO!

I think the addition of LSD and/or a clutch in the Fit's trans will result in broken 2nd/3rd gears. (With FI.)

 

clutch/lsd
synthetic oil (no higher than 5w-30 with USDM-fits)
no axles needed, i highly doubt it'll break sub 250wtq.
Innovative motor mounts, street kit should be fine.
1-2 step colder plugs

 

yeah better oil. i noticed a better accerlation. im running royal purple now. and i used to run mobil 1 synthetic of course.


final drive would be great for boosting. stiff engine mounts and the ingalls stiffy will help plant more power to the wheels.

 

Royal Purple does not perform well with boosted applications. For some odd reason, it breaks down much quicker than M1/Amsoil/Redline/Castrol.

I bought in to the RP hype a while back and so did some of my friends, as we did feel a bit of an oomph from it. Huge mistake. Luckily i got the RP analyzed before i got any problems and found that it was no longer good after 4k miles. Many others experienced turbo seal failures due to RP. Theres just a lot of mixed reviews also on the internet, enough for me to stick with M1 5w-30, which lasts me an average of 5500 miles with turbo and M1 filter. (I get my oil samples analyzed regularly)

 

i am going to be running greddy 5w40. i already use the 5w30 and i love it.

heres a link about the oil
Greddy - Founded and Driven by Racers

 

do NOT up the viscosity. there is absolutely no need to. Your motor's stock bearing clearances remain the same and does not change b/c u boost. Its a common misconception to do so. Extending the life of the turbo is not worth the motor's.

5w-30 is PERFECTLY fine. As long as you give 30 secs or so to cool off before shutting down car, turbo will last just fine. Stick with the 30weight u have now.

sorry if it sounds like i'm shoving it down ur throat , but its just a common rule.

 

its okay, ive already consulted a few people on using the 5w40. everyone gave me the green light.

also, no matter what oil you use, you should always let your turbo cool down. im lazy so i got a turbo timer

 

I've consulted a TON of engine builders and Honda techs about this subject, and it all came down to good ol' 5w-30. You're in CA, consult Church Automotive in their thoughts. Even states on Greddy's oil site:
scroll a lil lower
It's worth mentioning that the switch from 40 weight to 30 weight at operating temperature that the auto industry has switched to is generally accepted to coincide / be because of tighter bearing tolerances and the switch to overhead cam design. Using a heavier weight oil (I realize it's already been exposed to thick oil during warm up) for the majority of your operation may not be advisable if the thicker oil doesn't properly lube the tighter passage ways and bearing tolerances.

Everything I've ever seen suggested only switching to a heavier weight oil on an engine that was fairly high mileage. Having said that, 40 and 30 weight are very similar.

I'm not saying it will damage your motor, or that it's even likely, but that there is a reason in a tight tolerance motor such as modern honda engine would call for 30 weight oil vs 40 from the days of old.

But really, if you are not having any problems, then stick to what you're using. (5w30)

If you have consumption/low pressure problems and there is no underlying cause, then you may benefit from thicker oil. (5w40)

So just look into a little harder You def dont want excess wear on the bearings along with the added stress of boost.

 

tagged for interest

 

wait, RP s n good on boosted cars? really? I have been running them in all my cars....maybe I need to get my oil analyzed soon....

 

What exactly are you guys talking about, boosting with a turbo or SC at higher boost?

 

fit aren't made to take the extra power, so we are talking about how to keep the reliability and driviability after boosting.

 

it wasnt happy with my n/a or boosted setups, per analysis. the only way to know for sure is for you to get analyzed.

RP has no builder approvals, no factory-fill contracts, consistently poor lab results and carries no specs other than the same basic API that generic oil from a drug store carries. Do they even have any serious sponsorships? They dont have any certificates where it passes a double-length Thin Film Oxidative Stability Uptake Test or the highest insustry sequences like Porsche Approval or Mercedes MB 229.51. RP offers nothing unique or special in terms of quality or performance and they make that dubious claim of increased horsepower. Sadly, it's a mediocre product at a premuim price. They are great at marketing tho.

Someone who wants better-than-average/unique oil should consider ordering AMSoil (0w-30) or using something actually good like Redline, Brad Penn Racing, Motul, Eneos, Petronas, Elf, Fuchs Titan, or the current ultimate formulator- Renewable Lubes (RLI) who is currently formulating an oil specificly for the 9000 rpm RS4 FSI... there are so many really super-quality products to choose from with the same amount of money as RP, I don't think I would even use RP if it was given to me free. I'd sell it to some ppl who dont know better and use the money and buy M1. lol

Not saying it will certainly damage your motor, but its something u should check on regularly if u decide to run it.

 

The L15 doesn't rev as high as, say a K20A, which we all know doesn't have a ton of torque, even boosted. The additional torque in the L15 could be an issue, depending on how much boost is being pushed through that motor, but I agree on the no axles part right now.

As for what axles, I think GatorGlen does axles, but Driveshaft Shop did mine for another project. But again, I don't think they're necessary at the moment.

 

co-signed

 

one thing you dont know though, i am going to be running more than 6psi

my dyno tuner friend said that 5w40 would be the best for my application. he sees all types of turbos come in and out and i trust that he knows his stuff.