Dyno results!!
Dyno results!!
I'm looking to get all the user's with stock dyno's, N/A dyno's, and boosted dyno's together so we can possibly get a sticky going to highlight certain mods and their actual gains.
So please, anybody with a dyno sheet please post up the mods done to the vehicle at the time of the run or individually if you have them as well.
I think it's going to be cool if we can get everybody on board. I'm going to chat with a mod in reguards to getting it stickied.
Nick.
So please, anybody with a dyno sheet please post up the mods done to the vehicle at the time of the run or individually if you have them as well.
I think it's going to be cool if we can get everybody on board. I'm going to chat with a mod in reguards to getting it stickied.
Nick.
+1 I would really like to see this thread become a sticky. As soon as I am over 5000 miles, and had the first oil change done I plan to get on the dyno, for nothing else to see where the A/F is at. My current plan is only to add a axle back, header, and keep the Autozone CAI, but still would like to see if it made any difference. I want to see if any of these parts that the manafactures are selling are really adding power, and keeping the A/F safe. Or are we just pissing away money. I find it funny how People will spend tons of money for a part from Japan, that is not proven to add anything other than a supposed coolness factor to the small minority that know why some Hondas have a red emblem and some don't. Just my worthless 2cents.
pretty sure people have tried to do this before. i would just do a search for 'dyno' and see what all you get and compare em yourself...the few times people tried to make threads like this they really didnt go anywhere, sorry ;/
2007 Honda Jazz Turbo
I'll support it and start things off.
Here is my dyno graph. It was done on a Mustang Dyno which typically provides a more "real world" number in terms of power. For example, compared to a Dynojet, you would see about a 6-8% increase in power over a dyno from a Mustang Dyno. Also, we are 3500ft above sea level which once I'm tuned to, should put down a few more ponies.
Also, this dyno test was just a pass to see what I was putting down before I get my Emanage tuned properly. I hope to be making a bit more power after I get tuned and will possibly be running 8psi.
Here's a list of my performance mods (only the ones that could affect the dyno results):
T1R Type-S Turbo Kit @ 6psi
T1R Test Pipe
T1R Mid Pipe
Greddy Ti-C Axleback (No Silencer Installed)
T1R Oil Cooler Kit
Enkei RPF-1 15x7 +41mm Offset wheels
General Exclaim UHP 195/55VR15 tires
Lightweight Forged Alloy Lug Nuts
- I put my wheel info down cause the power is transferred through the wheels onto the dyno, unlike Dynapak dynos. My wheel/tire combo weigh in at 26.4lbs per corner.

Oh ya, disregard the spike at 2000rpms. I wasn't making 200+ whp there lol
The line that starts in the middle is my AFR, the WHP is the one that starts the lowest, and the torque is the one that looks like a nice rainbow after a cool spring shower without any color :P
The baseline numbers are from Mr_ET. We used his stock fit for our baseline comparison. I am making 68.2whp / 62.4 lb ft. over stock.... for now.
I am running a bit rich without boost, and I am a tad lean at higher rpms. Once I get it all tuned and running smoothly all should be well. So to compare with someone who is on a Dynojet you can take my 154.9whp and add atleast 6-8% more power, plus another 2-3% for the elevation. This would mean I should be making somewhere around 170whp if I were at sea level and on a Dynojet. If I were on a Dynapack, I'd be close to the 180s. Once I get tuned I'll get a better idea of where I am really at tho.
Here is my dyno graph. It was done on a Mustang Dyno which typically provides a more "real world" number in terms of power. For example, compared to a Dynojet, you would see about a 6-8% increase in power over a dyno from a Mustang Dyno. Also, we are 3500ft above sea level which once I'm tuned to, should put down a few more ponies.
Also, this dyno test was just a pass to see what I was putting down before I get my Emanage tuned properly. I hope to be making a bit more power after I get tuned and will possibly be running 8psi.
Here's a list of my performance mods (only the ones that could affect the dyno results):
T1R Type-S Turbo Kit @ 6psi
T1R Test Pipe
T1R Mid Pipe
Greddy Ti-C Axleback (No Silencer Installed)
T1R Oil Cooler Kit
Enkei RPF-1 15x7 +41mm Offset wheels
General Exclaim UHP 195/55VR15 tires
Lightweight Forged Alloy Lug Nuts
- I put my wheel info down cause the power is transferred through the wheels onto the dyno, unlike Dynapak dynos. My wheel/tire combo weigh in at 26.4lbs per corner.
Oh ya, disregard the spike at 2000rpms. I wasn't making 200+ whp there lol
The line that starts in the middle is my AFR, the WHP is the one that starts the lowest, and the torque is the one that looks like a nice rainbow after a cool spring shower without any color :PThe baseline numbers are from Mr_ET. We used his stock fit for our baseline comparison. I am making 68.2whp / 62.4 lb ft. over stock.... for now.
I am running a bit rich without boost, and I am a tad lean at higher rpms. Once I get it all tuned and running smoothly all should be well. So to compare with someone who is on a Dynojet you can take my 154.9whp and add atleast 6-8% more power, plus another 2-3% for the elevation. This would mean I should be making somewhere around 170whp if I were at sea level and on a Dynojet. If I were on a Dynapack, I'd be close to the 180s. Once I get tuned I'll get a better idea of where I am really at tho.
Last edited by YeeFit; Sep 15, 2008 at 06:01 PM.
I didn't think it worked out before because there weren't enough mods out there for ppl to warrant a dyno test. Now that the turbo kits, sc kit, and other mods have been out for some time you will see more dynos being run.
Atleast that was what I was thinking 5 months ago.
Atleast that was what I was thinking 5 months ago.
I'll support it and start things off.
Here is my dyno graph. It was done on a Mustang Dyno which typically provides a more "real world" number in terms of power. For example, compared to a Dynojet, you would see about a 6-8% increase in power over a dyno from a Mustang Dyno. Also, we are 3500ft above sea level which once I'm tuned to, should put down a few more ponies.
Also, this dyno test was just a pass to see what I was putting down before I get my Emanage tuned properly. I hope to be making a bit more power after I get tuned and will possibly be running 8psi.
Here's a list of my performance mods (only the ones that could affect the dyno results):
T1R Type-S Turbo Kit @ 6psi
T1R Test Pipe
T1R Mid Pipe
Greddy Ti-C Axleback (No Silencer Installed)
T1R Oil Cooler Kit
Enkei RPF-1 15x7 +41mm Offset wheels
General Exclaim UHP 195/55VR15 tires
Lightweight Forged Alloy Lug Nuts
- I put my wheel info down cause the power is transferred through the wheels onto the dyno, unlike Dynapak dynos. My wheel/tire combo weigh in at 26.4lbs per corner.

Oh ya, disregard the spike at 2000rpms. I wasn't making 200+ whp there lol
The line that starts in the middle is my AFR, the WHP is the one that starts the lowest, and the torque is the one that looks like a nice rainbow after a cool spring shower without any color :P
The baseline numbers are from Mr_ET. We used his stock fit for our baseline comparison. I am making 68.2whp / 62.4 lb ft. over stock.... for now.
I am running a bit rich without boost, and I am a tad lean at higher rpms. Once I get it all tuned and running smoothly all should be well. So to compare with someone who is on a Dynojet you can take my 154.9whp and add atleast 6-8% more power, plus another 2-3% for the elevation. This would mean I should be making somewhere around 170whp if I were at sea level and on a Dynojet. If I were on a Dynapack, I'd be close to the 180s. Once I get tuned I'll get a better idea of where I am really at tho.
Here is my dyno graph. It was done on a Mustang Dyno which typically provides a more "real world" number in terms of power. For example, compared to a Dynojet, you would see about a 6-8% increase in power over a dyno from a Mustang Dyno. Also, we are 3500ft above sea level which once I'm tuned to, should put down a few more ponies.
Also, this dyno test was just a pass to see what I was putting down before I get my Emanage tuned properly. I hope to be making a bit more power after I get tuned and will possibly be running 8psi.
Here's a list of my performance mods (only the ones that could affect the dyno results):
T1R Type-S Turbo Kit @ 6psi
T1R Test Pipe
T1R Mid Pipe
Greddy Ti-C Axleback (No Silencer Installed)
T1R Oil Cooler Kit
Enkei RPF-1 15x7 +41mm Offset wheels
General Exclaim UHP 195/55VR15 tires
Lightweight Forged Alloy Lug Nuts
- I put my wheel info down cause the power is transferred through the wheels onto the dyno, unlike Dynapak dynos. My wheel/tire combo weigh in at 26.4lbs per corner.
Oh ya, disregard the spike at 2000rpms. I wasn't making 200+ whp there lol
The line that starts in the middle is my AFR, the WHP is the one that starts the lowest, and the torque is the one that looks like a nice rainbow after a cool spring shower without any color :PThe baseline numbers are from Mr_ET. We used his stock fit for our baseline comparison. I am making 68.2whp / 62.4 lb ft. over stock.... for now.
I am running a bit rich without boost, and I am a tad lean at higher rpms. Once I get it all tuned and running smoothly all should be well. So to compare with someone who is on a Dynojet you can take my 154.9whp and add atleast 6-8% more power, plus another 2-3% for the elevation. This would mean I should be making somewhere around 170whp if I were at sea level and on a Dynojet. If I were on a Dynapack, I'd be close to the 180s. Once I get tuned I'll get a better idea of where I am really at tho.
My A/F was at ~13.5 at WOT (peak boost) and 14.5 at lower rpms before the boost kicks in. These numbers are why I need to re-tune my emanage for my elevation to run proper. Currently I'm pretty much backwards til I get tuned
Dude that's LEAN!! From what I read you want somewhere between 11.5 and 12.5... 13.5 is closer to N/A AFR's. Get that retuned ASAP!
Well we shall try again then. I realize this has probably been done before but if we get some guys to hop on board then maybe people can reference this when looking to buy parts.
Sorry bro, the only SSR's I've ever had my hands on were attached to FD3's and Skylines when I was test driving some JDM cars lol. Granted, I can get them but.....I dont own or have not owned a set (yet).
. I'd really really like to see some "real" tunning software hit the market for these L15's, some Hondata, Crome.......something better than E-manage would be great.
But good stuff soo far, lets see some N/A powa!!
Nick
EEEK, that is dangerously lean IMO. I've taken the level 1+2 EFI courses and seen quite a few charts and that is a damn high A/F ratio for WOT on a boosted car. Considering a FMU runs typically around 12:1 and can be both rich and lean in the same RPM band that's still a better scenario. Atleast if your too rich you may just fowl some plugs, the other scenario is you could have a new motor
.
I'd really really like to see some "real" tunning software hit the market for these L15's, some Hondata, Crome.......something better than E-manage would be great.
But good stuff soo far, lets see some N/A powa!!
Nick
. I'd really really like to see some "real" tunning software hit the market for these L15's, some Hondata, Crome.......something better than E-manage would be great.
But good stuff soo far, lets see some N/A powa!!
Nick
EEEK, that is dangerously lean IMO. I've taken the level 1+2 EFI courses and seen quite a few charts and that is a damn high A/F ratio for WOT on a boosted car. Considering a FMU runs typically around 12:1 and can be both rich and lean in the same RPM band that's still a better scenario. Atleast if your too rich you may just fowl some plugs, the other scenario is you could have a new motor
.
I'd really really like to see some "real" tunning software hit the market for these L15's, some Hondata, Crome.......something better than E-manage would be great.
But good stuff soo far, lets see some N/A powa!!
Nick
. I'd really really like to see some "real" tunning software hit the market for these L15's, some Hondata, Crome.......something better than E-manage would be great.
But good stuff soo far, lets see some N/A powa!!
Nick
Engine swap is the way to go.
They have to for the Kraftwerks kit
Yup. From what I heard Hondata won't be releasing anything for the L15A. The only Hondata you will be able to get is the reflash that will go with the Kraftwerks kit.
Reflash = Teh Suxerz!!
That sucks, I guess their million dollar industry cant justify shitting out some "L-pro" for the fit chassis, considering people have only been modifying them for what 8 years now? Doh
That sucks, I guess their million dollar industry cant justify shitting out some "L-pro" for the fit chassis, considering people have only been modifying them for what 8 years now? Doh
Common sense says its lean but since the boost is so low its fine. The HKS kit runs similar AFR's.
IMO, Id have it retuned to a safer AFR. Both the HKS and T1R kit run 13.0 ish AFR's at the highest. Both have been tested for a while and havent shown signs of detonation.
Compression and leak down tests were done.
IMO, Id have it retuned to a safer AFR. Both the HKS and T1R kit run 13.0 ish AFR's at the highest. Both have been tested for a while and havent shown signs of detonation.
Compression and leak down tests were done.



