Need advice for building motor...
Need advice for building motor...
I have the sport model AT...yeah i know this is not gunna be an easy road...I wanted to put in a turbo but since everyone scared the hell outta me in the forced induction thread saying turbo+AT= engine trouble. SO i wanted to take the alternative route and no not a Superchrgr.. I was wondering if getting minor head work done such as the cam (I haven't heard of anyone getting a cam for a fit yet) valves n such...also nitrous...my thing is what would give the most power by itself or in combination (i.e. complete exhaust) for my car???
08 NHBP Sport AT
15x6.5 Rota Slipstream
Eibach Springs 2.0 Rear 1.8 Front
6000K HIDS
08 NHBP Sport AT
15x6.5 Rota Slipstream
Eibach Springs 2.0 Rear 1.8 Front
6000K HIDS
head work is really unheard of because of how thin the port walls are. no one has designed a cam unless you want to shell out money for a custom. zex makes a fit specific nitrous kit if you want to go that route. i personally would start with intake and full exhaust. then t1r lightened pully. weapon r intake manifold (when all the bugs are worked out) simple iradium spark plugs should maybe help you add to your power need. but this is just my opinion.
oh yea...by the way does anyone know whats in the Spoon Sports Fit or Noblesse Fit...I know the Spoon fit is the L15 motor and its dominant...just wondering what it has done to it...im looking to use my car in autocross and just want sufficient power maybe 150whp if possible (does that seem extreme), i am going to get sway bars soon too...
oh yea...by the way does anyone know whats in the Spoon Sports Fit or Noblesse Fit...I know the Spoon fit is the L15 motor and its dominant...just wondering what it has done to it...im looking to use my car in autocross and just want sufficient power maybe 150whp if possible (does that seem extreme), i am going to get sway bars soon too...
head work is really unheard of because of how thin the port walls are. no one has designed a cam unless you want to shell out money for a custom. zex makes a fit specific nitrous kit if you want to go that route. i personally would start with intake and full exhaust. then t1r lightened pully. weapon r intake manifold (when all the bugs are worked out) simple iradium spark plugs should maybe help you add to your power need. but this is just my opinion.
LOL. let me help you man.
First, there's no more stress put on the motor running boost on a manual or automatic transmission. You'd have the same motor issues as any manual trans guy, the motor is the same.
The automatic might pose a problem, but I doubt you'll reach that point until maybe 100whp more than stock. So maybe around the 180whp mark the stock trans might give you issues.
IF manual trans guys are making safe power (stock honda motors are usually said to be "weak" when they first come out and tuners blow the first few motors, but after people get smart with tuning fuel and ignition maps, the motors are pretty stout) then there's no reason an AT guy can't. Albeit maybe 10-15whp less at same boost levels due to drivetrain losses.
First, there's no more stress put on the motor running boost on a manual or automatic transmission. You'd have the same motor issues as any manual trans guy, the motor is the same.
The automatic might pose a problem, but I doubt you'll reach that point until maybe 100whp more than stock. So maybe around the 180whp mark the stock trans might give you issues.
IF manual trans guys are making safe power (stock honda motors are usually said to be "weak" when they first come out and tuners blow the first few motors, but after people get smart with tuning fuel and ignition maps, the motors are pretty stout) then there's no reason an AT guy can't. Albeit maybe 10-15whp less at same boost levels due to drivetrain losses.
if you're modding for autoX, and not drag racing/street performance, there are much better ways to go about it IMHO. power really doesn't matter as much in autoX, there's several stories/posts on this forum about near-stock Fits beating up on cars with 3x the power.
depending on what class you want to enter, the biggest difference will be had with wheels/tires, weight reduction, and plain old driving practice.
stock classes, you can't use a rear sway bar. disconnect the front bar for better handling (so i hear) on an autoX course. keep the wheel size/tire size the same but upgrade to lighter wheels. on a car with low torque like the fit, 5 lbs off one wheel makes a very noticeable difference. also, go with the stickiest rubber you can find, consider track only rims and rubber. bring your tools too, and a buddy to watch your junk when you race, and take out the rear seats, spare/jack, and maybe even the passenger seat. you can also go a few steps further if you want to give up 60-80 lbs of comfort items (speakers, radio, removing the muffler for track, etc etc)
once you make any mods that bump you out of a stock class, you're going to have a hard time competeing without spending a ton of money.
my .02.
depending on what class you want to enter, the biggest difference will be had with wheels/tires, weight reduction, and plain old driving practice.
stock classes, you can't use a rear sway bar. disconnect the front bar for better handling (so i hear) on an autoX course. keep the wheel size/tire size the same but upgrade to lighter wheels. on a car with low torque like the fit, 5 lbs off one wheel makes a very noticeable difference. also, go with the stickiest rubber you can find, consider track only rims and rubber. bring your tools too, and a buddy to watch your junk when you race, and take out the rear seats, spare/jack, and maybe even the passenger seat. you can also go a few steps further if you want to give up 60-80 lbs of comfort items (speakers, radio, removing the muffler for track, etc etc)
once you make any mods that bump you out of a stock class, you're going to have a hard time competeing without spending a ton of money.
my .02.
The Spoon Sports Fit only has about 125 hp, but it is very light weight.
There is a European company that makes cams for the Fit. But no one has tried them on a USDM Fit.
http://www.catcams.be/800x600/prod01...m?PN25030xx.js
There is a European company that makes cams for the Fit. But no one has tried them on a USDM Fit.
http://www.catcams.be/800x600/prod01...m?PN25030xx.js
Thats what I was thinking about the drop...actually Im having it installed today...the guy at my shop Im hoping, said it backwards...lol
if you're modding for autoX, and not drag racing/street performance, there are much better ways to go about it IMHO. power really doesn't matter as much in autoX, there's several stories/posts on this forum about near-stock Fits beating up on cars with 3x the power.
depending on what class you want to enter, the biggest difference will be had with wheels/tires, weight reduction, and plain old driving practice.
stock classes, you can't use a rear sway bar. disconnect the front bar for better handling (so i hear) on an autoX course. keep the wheel size/tire size the same but upgrade to lighter wheels. on a car with low torque like the fit, 5 lbs off one wheel makes a very noticeable difference. also, go with the stickiest rubber you can find, consider track only rims and rubber. bring your tools too, and a buddy to watch your junk when you race, and take out the rear seats, spare/jack, and maybe even the passenger seat. you can also go a few steps further if you want to give up 60-80 lbs of comfort items (speakers, radio, removing the muffler for track, etc etc)
once you make any mods that bump you out of a stock class, you're going to have a hard time competeing without spending a ton of money.
my .02.
depending on what class you want to enter, the biggest difference will be had with wheels/tires, weight reduction, and plain old driving practice.
stock classes, you can't use a rear sway bar. disconnect the front bar for better handling (so i hear) on an autoX course. keep the wheel size/tire size the same but upgrade to lighter wheels. on a car with low torque like the fit, 5 lbs off one wheel makes a very noticeable difference. also, go with the stickiest rubber you can find, consider track only rims and rubber. bring your tools too, and a buddy to watch your junk when you race, and take out the rear seats, spare/jack, and maybe even the passenger seat. you can also go a few steps further if you want to give up 60-80 lbs of comfort items (speakers, radio, removing the muffler for track, etc etc)
once you make any mods that bump you out of a stock class, you're going to have a hard time competeing without spending a ton of money.
my .02.
Here is an idea I currently have although I still have a rubbery one for the HKS Turbo Kit.
Buy an EF or EG and keep my Fit as my reliable daily driver (H-stock) and build the EF or EG into a street able weekend warrior that I can occasionally take to work.
My problem is finding a cheap EF or EG that hasn't been molested by the ignorant.
I really think the Fit can do wonders with suspension more than power.
Here is an idea I currently have although I still have a rubbery one for the HKS Turbo Kit.
Buy an EF or EG and keep my Fit as my reliable daily driver (H-stock) and build the EF or EG into a street able weekend warrior that I can occasionally take to work.
My problem is finding a cheap EF or EG that hasn't been molested by the ignorant.
Here is an idea I currently have although I still have a rubbery one for the HKS Turbo Kit.
Buy an EF or EG and keep my Fit as my reliable daily driver (H-stock) and build the EF or EG into a street able weekend warrior that I can occasionally take to work.
My problem is finding a cheap EF or EG that hasn't been molested by the ignorant.
I agree. The Fit could be a helluva contender in Autocross....even stock classes, with good alignment settings, wider rims and tires, and maybe a sway bar. It's very tossable with good steering and a fairly good CG considering how tall it is.
I think the best route For the FIT to gain great power, even though i hate to say it, would be forced induction. The motors are quite small and similar to those found in the Si EG's. Even if you do some head work the little machine can only breathe in so much air. Like i hav said before, i dont think these cars were built for straight roads. Spend money on your suspension; sway bar, coilovers, struts, strut bars, bushings, etc. Along with some minor bolt ons for a bit more power and response, find yourself some nice curves And im sure you will have a hell of a time.
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