Conveniently RIGHT after an oil change and spark plug swap, my MIL came on, and the code is P2A00, or primary oxygen sensor slow response.

I took it back to where I had the service done (too cold to do my own work without a garage this time of year!), and tried playing dumb to see if they would fix it. No dice.

The reason I post in the FI section is because the only reason I can see my O2 sensor dying so quickly is because of the extra heat of the turbo, but I haven't heard anything about this from other members who are turbo'd.

Just wondering if anyone else has had an oxygen sensor problem after a turbo install. If it really is the heat I would block off the primary bung and weld another one further down the exhaust stream, but the downpipe that came with the kit already moves the sensor pretty far downstream of the turbo, so I'm not sure how much farther it would need to go.

So, has anyone here had a sensor-related problem? Or do you think I just got a bum sensor to begin with and the turbo just pushed it over the edge? Damn this sucks, a new sensor is gonna be 180$ from Bernardi, plus whatever favors it costs me to use my buddy's parents' garage.

 

On rx-7's i tuned i had heat issues with the o2 sensor for my wideband...had to use one of these http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=1

i do know you run lean in boost under partial load which will cause very high egt and burn out o2's quick...you get that esc1 yet?

also $180 bucks is a rip off.... look up pricing here http://www.thepartsbin.com
you can also take the part number off that sensor and look it up online...hell i dont even pay more then $80 bucks for my wideband sensors.

 

Thanks for the quick reply artieman, I did JUST receive the ESC1 in the mail like 5 minutes before I took my car in... Ironic huh?

When you search thepartsbin.com for 07 fit, and then click on oxygen sensors, it just gives you a list of ALL the different types of universal sensors they have, from 1 wire to 5 LOL.

I might just get one of those 4 wire universals (28$!), as I'm going to have to solder in to the harness anyway to hook up the ESC1. I'm a little weary though that it's something stupid, like the sensor itself is loose or something. I only say that because as far as I know I'm the only one to have this premature of a sensor failure, even with others running MORE boost on the same kit, all with the same partial throttle/closed loop issue as me (I rarely ever hit partial throttle boost, I like to think I'm very careful about that). Also the fact that it happened EXACTLY on the 2nd key-on cycle after it left the dealer....

I tried a google search for the Honda P/N, and $175 is the cheapest that I found. Makes you wonder if they really do charge the extra $150-$250 for just the wiring harness and clip, or if there's something else to it.

 

almost all o2 sensors out there are made by bosch or ntk....get the universal and wire it in yourself....also what is the part number off the o2 sensor? cant go pull mine out and look im at work =P

 

I can't exactly go look either, as the ENTIRE parking lot (including the covered bays) is covered by 2" of ice with a coating of snow, and there is NO WAY I'm getting under a car jacked up on ice and snow, I like my life too much. Plus, my fat arse won't fit underneath the car without a jack/stands. The Honda P/N I found on the internet for the OE replacement is 36531-RME-A01, whatever that means.

 

You know what's weird? Oxygen sensor for an 07 Accord V6 is only 114$, and it's called a "LAF" (Lambda Air Fuel?) sensor. The sensor spec'd for the Fit is 180 and is just called "Sensor - Air Fuel."

What gives?

 

no i haven't had a code like that yet.

 

sensors are becoming more vehicle specific I recommend getting the oem

 

be carefull there are air fuel sensors "lambda" and oxygen sensors these days. oxygen sensors work on a 0-1v scale lambda air fuel sensors are typically 0-3v sensors and are very critical to engine performance/fuel trim.

on a side note 18"s from the turbine is a ideal sensors distance for a turbo car.

 

same sensors my accord v6 uses =P (a real car on a side note)
the sensors the accord v6's use are 0-5volt and are wideband oxygen sensors and accurately read a wide range....the sensor are fit uses is the garbage el cheapo narrow band with its 0-1volt range and is only accurate at 14.7:1....which is why when you log with your wideband on the fit youll see the a/f ratio swing back and forth across 14.7:1 when its closed loop...

 

be careful taking your o2 sensor out! i galled mine trying to take it out and i had to buy a new one. keep it very straight!

 

also if you want to wait =P
i won this on ebay ( Honda Fit Factory Service Manual, ETM & Body Rep. ) and can give you an exact part number and probably cross reference to non overpriced oxygen sensors made by bosch

 

That'd be great if you could get me that part number. Whenever you get a chance, of course.

An update to anyone following this thread:

It's been 2 days and a full tank of gas (went to the Detroit auto show!) and the code hasn't been set again! I'm thinking (hoping?) it was just a fluke. Maybe a bit of carbon got dislodged and stuck to the sensor?

Dunno exactly, but I'm not gonna knock it if it works. Also, I just realized today that my wideband has a narrowband (stock style) output.. D'oh! So if my sensor goes bad in the near future, I'll just leave it be (for the heater circuit) and wire the wideband's narrowband output into the computer. From then on, only 1 sensor to replace, ever!

 

I think (not sure) the Fit's stock O2 sensors are wideband o2 sensors. Older Honda models are narrowband.

 

very possible with the front O2 but almost deffinitly not the rear.

 

wish this were so...then when i switched to a k i wouldnt have to buy a wideband oxygen sensor

 

waiting on it to show up in the mail....

my track civic runs this way...custom modded ecu from an obd1 car runs the 2liter 13.7:1 compression motor...oxygen sensor input for the ecu is driven off the innovate LM-1...the laptop that is interfaced with the ecu can make changes in real time while im driving by using the wideband output off the LM-1...

fyi im almost positive i can run the fit off an obd1 ecu....did with with a K motor and used vtc killer cam gears to make it operate like a B series

 

if there are any honda techs here if they can give the sensor parameters they could be very usefull.

 

this is the voltage to a/f scale for every narrowband out there....
narrowband is 0-1volt with 0.45-0.5 volts being 14.7:1
widebands are 0-5volts and scale depends on sensor type

 

thats crazy that our engines like 14.7 afr. i always thought my car ran lean because most cars are around 13.5 when cruising.