valve clearance
I just adjusted my valves at 60K, and had the exact same experience. Intake were all o.k., but all exhaust were so tight I couldn't even get the feeler gauge in. Made me think I was doing something wrong, but there seem to be a lot of people who reported the same condition, so I guess that's what happens.
I just adjusted my valves at 60K, and had the exact same experience. Intake were all o.k., but all exhaust were so tight I couldn't even get the feeler gauge in. Made me think I was doing something wrong, but there seem to be a lot of people who reported the same condition, so I guess that's what happens.
i highly doubt that .004 of an inch of difference, or anything in that spectrum of measurement is going to register to the driver in way of a performance gain. peace of mind and a smoother idle and curve would be all that is seen.
It's not so much the change in lift as it is the change in effective cam duration that makes the difference.
My car has an interesting tic - if I put regular fuel in it, and the humidity is right, the engine has a minor lope at warm idle. It's fine if it has premium. It did it a little before at factory adjustment, but since the intake valves were so loose it's more pronounced now. Then again since I do this annually (old small engine habit) I always tend to set on the tight end of the spec...
I bet if I set exh at .012 instead of .010 it would go away.
My car has an interesting tic - if I put regular fuel in it, and the humidity is right, the engine has a minor lope at warm idle. It's fine if it has premium. It did it a little before at factory adjustment, but since the intake valves were so loose it's more pronounced now. Then again since I do this annually (old small engine habit) I always tend to set on the tight end of the spec...
I bet if I set exh at .012 instead of .010 it would go away.
2007 5spd sport with 100000 miles here were the clearances:
#1 - I - .009 E - .010
#3 - I - .009 E - .007
#4 - I - .009 E - .011
#2 - I - .009 E - .008
I adjusted them to I - .006 E - .012
I did this because the Intake seemed to loosen up while the Exhaust seemed to tighten up. This is the first time they have been inspected and adjusted.
#1 - I - .009 E - .010
#3 - I - .009 E - .007
#4 - I - .009 E - .011
#2 - I - .009 E - .008
I adjusted them to I - .006 E - .012
I did this because the Intake seemed to loosen up while the Exhaust seemed to tighten up. This is the first time they have been inspected and adjusted.
adjusted mine today as well...
as everyone else's experience, the intake valves were wide, the exhaust were narrow...
car is certainly smoother accelerating... idles better etc... if you haven't done this in 30k then it's time to take another look at it...
it isn't hard to do... if you had both tires off the ground, as i did, you have to turn both wheels at the same time (i felt real stupid when i realized/forgot about this)...
i also reused the gasket... it looked fine... i just put a small dab of rtv on the crank side...
blam... do it.
as everyone else's experience, the intake valves were wide, the exhaust were narrow...
car is certainly smoother accelerating... idles better etc... if you haven't done this in 30k then it's time to take another look at it...
it isn't hard to do... if you had both tires off the ground, as i did, you have to turn both wheels at the same time (i felt real stupid when i realized/forgot about this)...
i also reused the gasket... it looked fine... i just put a small dab of rtv on the crank side...
blam... do it.
Easier to turn the wheels to the right, leave the car on ground, and use a socket on the crank to turn engine clockwise. There's a hole in the pass.side fenderwell just for this. Just take out of gear unlike me who forgot and wondered what was wrong
adjusted mine today as well...
as everyone else's experience, the intake valves were wide, the exhaust were narrow...
car is certainly smoother accelerating... idles better etc... if you haven't done this in 30k then it's time to take another look at it...
it isn't hard to do... if you had both tires off the ground, as i did, you have to turn both wheels at the same time (i felt real stupid when i realized/forgot about this)...
i also reused the gasket... it looked fine... i just put a small dab of rtv on the crank side...
blam... do it.
as everyone else's experience, the intake valves were wide, the exhaust were narrow...
car is certainly smoother accelerating... idles better etc... if you haven't done this in 30k then it's time to take another look at it...
it isn't hard to do... if you had both tires off the ground, as i did, you have to turn both wheels at the same time (i felt real stupid when i realized/forgot about this)...
i also reused the gasket... it looked fine... i just put a small dab of rtv on the crank side...
blam... do it.
Had to redo mine and adjust the exhaust to .010 instead of .012. They clicked a little even after engine warm-up. Runs smooth now! I had the advantage of a long Craftsmen 3/8" ratchet with a flex head on it to turn the crankshaft. The wheels were straight and I could lean over the engine and turn it from behind under the hood. I could watch the camshaft markings while rotating at the same time.
Everybody has different ways though.
Everybody has different ways though.
did mine at 33k and all valves were out of spec
Honda won't cover this under warranty unless your valves are clacking (not tapping) noticeably. I took my GD3 in when it was still under warranty for the lumpy idle and they said it was fine. After I adjusted the valves it idled perfectly and ran a lot smoother.
I'll wait until 30k and check them on the new GE8 for sure.
I'll wait until 30k and check them on the new GE8 for sure.
I would suggest using Honda bond for those people that are planning to reuse their gaskets. I tried reusing mine and noticed a leak.





