N1 Concepts K20 ran in the Vegas strip. Ran somewhere in the 12's. It's on youtube somewhere.

 

There were guys in the early 70s running in the low 12s in air cooled VWs that were driven on the street.... I am not sure that my Fit with a 5 lb boost super charger would have beaten a 66 Beetle that I built up back then in the 1/4 mile, but the VW broke down and needed rebuilding continuesesly. So far my Fit hasn't broken anything

 

YouTube - Battle of the Imports Las Vegas - My K24 Civic vs K20 Fit

So the k20 fit was slower than 12.43.

 

Ok i went back to the Drag Strip today!!Changes were...-Half a tank of Premium instead of a full tank of Regular...-Fujita SRI instead of Stock Air Box!-Denso IK22 instead of Stockers NGK's!-Tires inflated to 32 pounds instead of 50F - 40R...-AMSoil 0w20 instead of Red Line 5w30...Well the best run i did was 18.23 at 75Mph.... Better still, i let a friend drive the car (He is 40 pounds lighter then me!) and he Managed to do 17.93Sec at 76.7Mph!! Weight really does matters!! Marko!

 

I tried to edit 3 times... it just wont let me insert lines between quotes... it sucks big times...!!Marko!!

 

i have a bone stock 09 auto sport and i weighed in at 275 at the time i ran it... 18.1 @ 77 2.5 60'

 

I returned today with still approx. the same amount of fuel in the tank but i removed the Rear seats, spare tire and even the wipers arms!! I also added NOS Octane booster and it's a shame i didn't monitor Spark advance...

- 17.66 -> 76Mph....

Bizzarely i could'nt go beyond 76Mph no matter what i tried... Increased tires pressure to 50Psi, let my ''70 something pounds lighter then me'' friend drive the car... NADA!! I think the octane rating of the gaz was just too much, and it caused the fuel to burn too slow at the upper revs... It didn't had top end power at all... Granted air temperatures were higher today!! At least, i was able to get the car in the 17's by myself!

Marko!!

 

I use the NOS octane booster and though I haven't been on a dyno or drag strip have had good results from it..... High temperatures kill my performance even with the super charger.... A !0 degrees difference hurts bad.

 

What about an Intercooler if you doesn't allready have one?

Thinking about it, i think my times are not that bad at all... There was a guy yesterday with a Greddy supercharged Yaris that did some high 16's runs... Maybe the clutch was slipping... i dunno!!

-Greddy supercherger...
-Custom cold-air Intake!
-DC Sports Header...
-Unknown Catback!

Best run... 16.7 at 83Mph!...

Marko!!

 

Now that I've seen some times, I may have to hook up my G-Tech Pro device to see what kind of times I get.

 

I am going to try "Run Cool Heat Escape Hood Louvers".... If I was using a turbo, an inter cooler would be a must but I am pretty confident that louvers will make a major difference and if it isn't enough I can resort to the more expensive options preferring methanol/water injection over the I/C.... If my finances will allow, I will be ordering the hood louvers soon and at a later date I hope to be able mount some of their fender louvers for intake into an insulated box surrounding the intake but I will have to use a PRM in the pipe filter but that is going to happen later and only if it is deemed necessary.

 

Personately, i removed the little trap to access the brake fluid reservoir! It's allowing hot air to escape by there!! Is y were to go S\C, i think i would put a Front-mount in front of it!!

Marko!!

 

2009 Manual Honda Jazz

Custom downpipe
Simota Red Ram Intake
Noblesse Lux exhaust

 

bad thing about our fits in the 1/4 mile is it runs out of breath right after 3rd gear. i would know it runs real strong right up until it hits 4th gear and i get nothing from the engine.

 

Reaction Time - 0.5064
60' - 2.7118
1/8 ET - 11.6458
1/8 MPH - 61.2
1000 FT ET - 11.9402
1000 FT MPH - 67.44

Car
Year - 2010
Model - Fit Sport
Transmission - 5AT

Mods:
Performance - DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5" Mandrel cat-back, Denso IK22 Plugs
Aero - None
Wheels/Tires(pressure) - TRMotorsport C1 (15x7)/Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position (24 inch diameter, I forget the specific size except it's a 195mm width), fronts at 38 psi, rears at 33.
Weight - Not sure.
Other - Car was on Shell Plus (89) Octane fuel.

Conditions:
Temperature - Not sure, but it was HOT.
Humidity - Not sure.
Time of day - Late afternoon.
Other - Dry and sunny

Since then, I've added a velocity stack after the MAF sensor...All of this was from a dead stop.

 

just out of curiosity (and obviosly i'm no dragger) how DO you drag an AT car? Are you putting on throttle and braking at the same time, until GO. Or do you just floor the gas pedal when it's go? Or do you beat up the transmiision by thottling in N and throw it in D? I asked because you got some amazing reaction time in AT...

 

Timing the light. I've done a stall/power brake before (Brake and gas at the same time) but saw a slow reaction time. That time above, I just dumped the throttle. The Drive-by-wire lag is just like having a delay box--I just waited until the third yellow, counted 1 after it lit up and floored it.

 

nice one

 

A lot of older pros will tell you that leaving the light on green is a rookie mistake. The key to a good reaction time is timing the light according to when your tires begin to move after you open the throttle, which is what a delay box is for...they aren't allowed in some classes (Mainly No/E classes), but they allow the driver to tune the car to move a certain amount of time after they hit the throttle...like the lag for Drive by Wire.

 

When the weather cools enough for me to complete what I'm doing and get a better tune I'm going to have to do some 1/4mile runs just for kicks... I have a few things in store to what is commonly done that should make a considerable improvement but the engine internals will still be stock...It's getting more and more costly every year.