Yes! more issues
Yes! more issues
My newest problem is under full throttle and higher RPMs, like 5K and up the check engine light will flash. When I let off after a bit it will stop. Twice it has given me 2 codes both P0000? and once P0404. I have all the upgrade you can have for the AT Fits. The car also backfires when Im really on it and the car shifts.
I dont know if this is all to do with the EGR valve or not, I have tried cleaning it twice now and am thinking of tyring to replace it, but for $130 im not sure.
I dont know if this is all to do with the EGR valve or not, I have tried cleaning it twice now and am thinking of tyring to replace it, but for $130 im not sure.
Last edited by MNfit; Feb 15, 2010 at 03:54 PM.
It was leonines opinion that the IK22 plugs were to cold to use on his car due to fouling problems..... He had the manual transmission S/C on an automatic car and I believe he lived in the Chicago area..... I had a BMW motorcycle than ran great with colder plugs until the temperature go down around the freezing mark and then they would foul.... I believe that you have the I/C on your car and that could be contributing to your car running to cool and causing fouling along with low temperature.
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 559
From: Norco, CA
You should use the one step colder plugs in tough conditions. Running them around in Minnesota winter at low speed is not what we recommended them to do.
We recommend the IK22 to the high performance driver that runs their cars hard and wants maximum performance in extreme conditions.
-Oscar Jr.
We recommend the IK22 to the high performance driver that runs their cars hard and wants maximum performance in extreme conditions.
-Oscar Jr.
You should use the one step colder plugs in tough conditions. Running them around in Minnesota winter at low speed is not what we recommended them to do.
We recommend the IK22 to the high performance driver that runs their cars hard and wants maximum performance in extreme conditions.
-Oscar Jr.
We recommend the IK22 to the high performance driver that runs their cars hard and wants maximum performance in extreme conditions.
-Oscar Jr.
^^ he's stating what the plugs are geared towards.. meaning that mnfit might be getting hurt by using them, causing a cel because he's not "running his car hard in extreme conditions"
The car does just fine with half throttle. Its when I go all out with full throttle and get it close to red line that the CEL will start to flash. Im wondering if my MAP sensors is maybe going out? The TMIC is not installed yet and I know the spark plugs are not the issue.
searching around I cant find any thing that tells me what P0000 means. I also noticed when I just turn the car on, with out starting it. The CEL will flash 5 times then turn off. For othere Honda's that is a MAP sensor.
searching around I cant find any thing that tells me what P0000 means. I also noticed when I just turn the car on, with out starting it. The CEL will flash 5 times then turn off. For othere Honda's that is a MAP sensor.
The car does just fine with half throttle. Its when I go all out with full throttle and get it close to red line that the CEL will start to flash. Im wondering if my MAP sensors is maybe going out? The TMIC is not installed yet and I know the spark plugs are not the issue.
searching around I cant find any thing that tells me what P0000 means. I also noticed when I just turn the car on, with out starting it. The CEL will flash 5 times then turn off. For othere Honda's that is a MAP sensor.
searching around I cant find any thing that tells me what P0000 means. I also noticed when I just turn the car on, with out starting it. The CEL will flash 5 times then turn off. For othere Honda's that is a MAP sensor.
I'll pitch in here, I didn't check the code but I had the flashing CEL when I was spraying nitrous on my GE. It only happened in the higher rpms, but I attributed it to an over supply of fuel and the computer cutting out fuel supply to keep it from backfiring.
With all that ya'll are saying though, it might have been an error with my sensor (MAF in my case) because I had the nozzle spraying onto the sensor like a dumbass. All I had to do was unplug and replug the sensor and the CEL went off (it went from flashing to solid after I restarted the car).
One final thing, I have ZEX cold plugs on my car.... if that matters.
With all that ya'll are saying though, it might have been an error with my sensor (MAF in my case) because I had the nozzle spraying onto the sensor like a dumbass. All I had to do was unplug and replug the sensor and the CEL went off (it went from flashing to solid after I restarted the car).
One final thing, I have ZEX cold plugs on my car.... if that matters.
My MIL flashes a few times and goes away like yours. Not throwing any codes or having misfires here though.
Looks like I found what the CEL was. I dropped my car off at the shop last saturday. While it was on the Dyno the car would not rev past 3K, it would go into limp mod. A bit of dinking around they figured out it was the MAP sensor (kind of what I thought)
So basically if you get a CEL under full throttle and high RPMs it a good idea to look at the MAP sensor.
So basically if you get a CEL under full throttle and high RPMs it a good idea to look at the MAP sensor.
You should use the one step colder plugs in tough conditions. Running them around in Minnesota winter at low speed is not what we recommended them to do.
We recommend the IK22 to the high performance driver that runs their cars hard and wants maximum performance in extreme conditions.
-Oscar Jr.
We recommend the IK22 to the high performance driver that runs their cars hard and wants maximum performance in extreme conditions.
-Oscar Jr.
i love the plugs
and have also noticed problems with them when it's 2degrees celsius or lower (Vancouver Winter) at low rmp (2k-2.5k) it will notice it being a little rough....
now summer is here....the car drives so much better then other plugs
