my problem is..car is heating up to 95C (oil temp) under normal driving....
i need it to stay cool for the summer and i think is time for FAN upgrade ?
which is a good fan that is much better then stock ?
SPAL or Flex a lite ?

where can i get it ?
thanks

 

95 degC? Which part of the car is this we're talking about? I'm assuming it's the engine.

If it's the engine, 95 degC should be okay.

 

Id be down for a custom raditator if i could figure out what size and what not.

 

I don't know 203F is pretty hot. Normal for me is 170F -175F It might touch 200F with spirited driving.

 

My car never quite gets to 180 F while it is moving or the A/C is on and fan is running.... Idling it while sitting, A/C off it will get up to 209 F and probably hotter.... At what temperature does the cooling fan turn on ????? With a 50/50 anti freeze water mixture the boiling point is over 250 F..... It immediately cools down once moving but I am not used to seeing temperatures like these, especially on days in the low 80s...... I would really appreciate some helpful knowledgeable feedback. Thank you very much.

 

Kwsc runs much cooler than turbo because of the self contained oil system. Either way with boost and running the car hard you will make it hotter in the bay for sure and there is nothing wrong with trying to cool it down.

 

when doing an Idle reset the fan has to cycle on, at at what temperature does the cooling fan turn on???? I haven't heard it turn on once while idling since installing the hood louvers but i don't know if it is because they work well at lowering the temp or I have a problem..... I had no idea what the temperatures climbed to until I recently got a Scangauge.... I did notice that the Spoon cooling thermostat switches on at 90 degrees and I assume that is 90C ...... I guess the Fit is like My old Volvo 760 turbo and just gets hotter than hell..... I don't think the KWSC has much influence on the temperature until it is putting out boost and more so on steep hills but it is the IAT not water temperature that rises.

 

please get pics of the hood louvers

 

There is one on my profile page and also on the thread FMIC with KWSC..... The SSM acrylic paint on them isn't as close as I had expected but after I have the other parts I have on hand, in transit and yet to be purchased, installed, everything above the waistline including the hood and louvers will be painted a different color.

 

pwr makes a radiator for our cars.

 

louvers on the hood is a good idea, but would'nt rogue's scoop be more efficient? maybe you could try changing the fan thermostat? i think the OEM starts at about 90 Celsius compared to 80 with aftermarket

 

Rogue's cowl scoop is barely noticeable temp wise, louvers or raking the hood will lower temps drastically

 

Heat rises so it is easier to let it exit from the highest point. A scoop will displace cooler air out the bottom of the engine bay and disrupt aerodynamic flow over the windshield and roof and adds to the under body turbulence.... I will soon have a carbon fiber cowl scoop feeding air into a ducted inter cooler and at a later date run a hose to my intake from a hood mounted NACA duct in addition to adding fender louvers and possibly raking the hood slightly during hot weather.... If the NACA duct is capable of flowing more air than the cowl scoop I may put another one on the opposite side of the hood in its place possibly with an in line electric fan..... I think you are right about there being a problem with the fan thermostat.... It is too cool out tonight to check it out which is a freak deal this time of year but when it gets hot here it's real bad on a boosted engine.

 

Water Wetter might help if at least a little bit! And from my researched understanding, it's completely safe in the warmer seasons. My cooling fan has been cycling on every now and then, mostly with the AC turned on and idling.

 

I picked up a bottle of some of that stuff to put in when and if the coolant level dropped.... I have been waiting for over a year and the level is the same so I will have to pump some coolant out to add the water wetter.

 

I lost some coolant when I installed the two different intakes I've had. Just guestimated, really on the safe side of what I should add... bottle says 1 oz for every quart or gallon, can't remember without looking at it this moment. Does anyone know how much coolant the radiator and reservoir tank hold when full?

 

95C? is that it? thats nothing dude, can't even boil water with that temp

 

You are running a turbo I am assuming because my oil temperature even after driving hard on hills in 80 F degree weather is cool enough to not burn my fingers if I use them to wipe my dipstick, I don't even have an oil cooler and use 5W20 oil.... My old Volvo 760 intercooled turbo was factory equipped with oil cooler and had much lower compression ratio pistons than my Fit and it ran very hot even at highway speeds the water temp went right up to the red mark but never reached or crossed it..... Turbos are just that way and a radiator fan change isn't going to affect the oil temp.... Venting or raking the hood will lower the intake air temp by lowering the temp under the hood and have some effect on coolant temp especially at idle in stop and go driving but if turbo charged and equipped with an oil cooler you are stuck with higher engine oil temp. You might try different weights of oil to find one that might flow at a rate that is more conducive to heat dissipation.

 

yeah... if hes turboed or not that temp is nothing. i had an aftermarket boosted system with intercooler which was putting down 10 PSI on a 3.2 Reinhard pulley, and it never reached 130C.. (which is when you should worry about it)


95C... thats cool enough for you to dump your antifreeze out and replace it with water, and it still won't boil over.

 

He is referring to his oil temperature. You are right about the water temp and 95 C is really not even on the hot side for engine oil.... Thermostats on engine oil coolers open flow to the cooler at 180 F and temperatures much lower than that will cause glazing of the cylinder walls and a loss of compression and temps over 240 F will cause break down of non synthetic oil..... I am wondering if my car is in danger of glazing over being that the oil seems to be about bath water temp on the dipstick..... Compression seems good and it never needs oil between changes so it is probably fine.