Anyone knows if there's a spoon/j's throttle body/any taper bored throttle body available for GE8 yet?

If so anyone know how to reset ECM/PCM/ECU after replacing the throttle body or simply after u take it off to clean it? Do I REALLY have to get a dealership to use the HDS(factory diagnostic system) to reset everything in the ECU for me on just doing a simple throttle body swap/clean up service?

 

I don't think you have to use the HDS to do a throttle body clean/swap. Send a GE TB down to Maxbore, I fairly certain they will work on those. I know for certain they do the GD.....

 

Both Spoon and J's offer one, but normally you have to exchange your current one. I do believe they both sell a no-trade version, but it costs about $200 more than the core exchange. Well probably about $250 more with the exchange rate.

If you can do without your car for a few days, the Maxbore route would be cheaper and should produce the same negligible results.

 

Do you have the part numbers for the Spoon and J's Racing throttle bodies?

 

you won't get any gains, from a bigger throttle body unless your motor is built and running bigger cam or f/i. also port matching the intake manifold is needed or it is pointless.

 

one word: MAXBORE.

 

3 words waste of money.

 

you havent been in a fit with one in it then

 

The main concern I have here is whether or not I'll have a dead vehicle/bunch of fault code without resetting everything with HDS after the throttle re&re....

Or if there's a more simple way to reset the GE8's ecu without using the HDS?

 

I see no reason why it wouldn't reset by simply unhooking the battery for ten minutes. Of course your dealer will tell you different, but he may be selling you fairy dust....

 

The ILP od stock ECU self adapted the idle (of course, eheh) after exchanging injectors, cat, header, flywheel and pulleys and the car idle better than new. Basically disconnect battery, then with all electricals off, switch on 2 secs, then start and let idle until the cooling fan runs twice. Done.

 

I'm a tech at honda, and the above post is right. Everytime you disconnect the battery the ecu has to relearn. Its called a air idle learn procedure. But if you don't port match the intake manifold you won't be taking advantage of the bored out throttle body.

 

From a Neon forum!! It's interesting!

That info was posted something like 10 years ago on a Dodge Neon Forum! It was very interesting as upgrading from the small 49mm stocker to a larger 52mm throttle body from an Automatic transmission Neon gave one hell of a gain for something like 20$ in a scrapyard! Then i did put a 57mm one from a guy that overbored mine and had found next to no gains... if any!! FYI stock DOHC Neon camshafts don't have any Overlap at all.... If i've had some Crane 16 or 18 Cams it would have been a different story!!

Conclusion. You are ''all motor'' and you have a 50mm Throttle body that can flow something like 265 Cfm and your Motor ''Maybe'' only need 202Cfm at 7000Rpm..... Keep it that way!! You are F\I, put a throttle body that is the same size as the outlet of your intercooler!!

Anybody here will have to show me solid proofs that an oversized Throttle body will do anything on a Fit!! Like a Dyno Chart!!

Marko!!

 

If those numbers are correct, the Fit's TB already can flow up to like 140% in stock form. So wonder if a smaller butterfly opening will actually increase what little performance the motor has.

And those numbers are calculated at the butterfly opening and not the end of the TB correct?

 

Those were calculated at the butterfly opening for the 52mm Throttle and the venturi for the 49mm Manual Transmission one (Actually the same then the ATX but with a ventury to reduce the jumpy behavior Neons are known to have when the throttle is too big and the car is equipped with a manual transmission!!)

Just like i said, when i switched from the 49mm (Manual!) to the 52mm (Automatic!) throttle body on my Neon, i've had big gains!! Switching from that 52mm to a 57mm gave me almost nothing at all... And i speak about a 2.0l DOHC Neon engine that spinned all day long at 7.8k Rpm! (Mopar Performance PCM!) Not a small 1.5l engine that spin (in my case) at 6500Rpm Max!! If anybody had some DBW throttle bodies, i would be curious to see some Dyno graphs... A little smaller, stock, a little bigger, etc... Or maybe we could simulate this with some piping... Small intake pipe, a little bigger, bigger....

Do you still wonder why the opening on the stock airbox is something like 44mm?

Marko!!

 

Just found an interesting site!!

Pipe Flow Calculation | Pipe Pressure Drop Calculation

I'm gonna have to check out for more infos on airflow calculations as this site tends to disagree with what i posted earlier!!

Marko!!

 

hmmm, food for thought, indeed...

 

I've been wondering and i think i will try it out with a 1¾in pipe as it's about the same size as the factory opening in the stock airbox!!! I think the resonators and the tiny air filter must be the major restrictions in the factory airbox.... So if i'm right, it should flow enough not to starve the tiny 1.5l engine at redline and increase low-end torque as well compared to my fujita SRI!! Plus, i could place the Air Filter in the fenderwell just like a cold-air intake would do... Now i've got to find some kind of piping suitable for that use as well as some kind of adapter for the air filter!! I think about some mandrel bent exhaust pipes!

Marko!!

 

It's more like 107% assuming that 44mm air filter box opening is the smallest cross section. Assuming those Neon TB restriction results are the same as on the USDM Fit (that is same area shaft and blade), then 44mm allows about 193 cfm.

1.5L ~= 91.5 ci
@100%: 6800*91.5*0.5/1728=180 cfm
@110%: 180*1.1=198 cfm

193/180 ~= 107%

Or more like 228% at the opening if the USDM GE8 Fit TB is 63mm (~2.5in). Although there are posts indicating 2.75 in. Assuming those Neon TB restriction results are the same as on the USDM Fit (that is same area shaft and blade), then 63mm allows about 410 cfm.

410/180 ~= 228%

 

Now we know that Throttle bodies aren't the main restriction in the intake track of a Fit!!! What about the Upper plenum!! According to grtpumpkin, the upper plenum hold the engine back!!! Maybe a better designed one as well as a custom 1¾in CAI to maintain proper air stream velocity!?!? What do you think?

Now i'm gonna go measure my Fujita SRI... lol

Marko!!

P.S. According to my Tape (200mm outer diameter) and maths...
200 \ 3.1416 = 63.66mm outer diameter so approx 61 inside...

....Now i really need to do a custom CAI!!!