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My Turbo Setup with the Disco Potato

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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 04:24 PM
  #21  
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Greddy Emanage Ultimate.
 
Old Nov 30, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by azkikersfit
ok i took her out for hard drive last night and when i pulling hard on 3rd gear at about 100km/h on a clear open super highway, i clutched it and revved just to see how it sound and nuthing seem to happen?!! no rev, no turbo boost nuthing, the car was just running. Usually when i m running at 80 or more i can double clutch it and still rev and hear and feel the engine and turbo whine.
This is not the first time, wat could it be? could it be the tune or wat?
Hey Arton,

Did you ever get this resolved? Things have been crazy busy over here, and I figured I was going to get a PM from you or something Cuz I would need more details before I could really give a helpful comment on the situation.

Hope all is well!
 
Old Dec 1, 2011 | 08:36 PM
  #23  
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its been a while since ive been on the forums but im totally surprised that the Fit L15 can put out these numbers. i remember that the KW with everything they put in their mill made 215. i guess maybe thats a apples and oranges comparison but i may have to revise my goals if these numbers are possible.
 
Old Dec 2, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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Subscribed for your progress, interested in your detailed opinion on the clutchmasters stg3 clutch? I've been waiting to hear from someone before I purchase it. Have you done motor/trans mounts? Stock rev limit? No head work? Stock intake manifold?
 
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 01:26 PM
  #25  
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Blackstar, clutchmasters stg 3 clutch is awesome, last time i dynoed on the MainLine dyno i was gettin about 158 Whp and it held up like it was NOTHING!!! now i wanna shoot for 250 - 275 WHP.
When i first drove it, the clutch was a lil bit harder but some wat close to stock feel, no complaints at all!!! no slippage when i drop the clutch at hight revs on 1st gear, but the real test would be when i get my tuning done to 15 - 20 psi hitting 275 to the wheels, i have done custom motor and trans mounts, and Yes it is at stock rev limit which about 6900 rpm for our cars, well thats the JDMs.
 
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by azkikersfit
Yes it is at stock rev limit which about 6900 rpm for our cars, well thats the JDMs.
Thanks for the response on the clutch. Thats interesting to see that your cars rev limit is @ 6900, ours are 6300...

What about the head and intake mani? anything done to them?
 
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 11:15 PM
  #27  
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yep!! the head had some port and polishing but im still using the stock intake manifold. Havent found a good one yet, probably might try WeaponR someday when the make a good for the JDM Fits.
hmmm and its interesting that the USDM Fits rev limit is at 6300 i always thought it was lil bit hight like at 6600 or 6700. Strange.
 
Old Dec 18, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DOHCtor
Hummm a Disco Potato at 5 Psi! IAT must be surprisingly low!

Marko!!
I agree. With a GT28RS the L15 is going to have to be running at least ~10-15psi to hit moderate-efficiency levels. I'm running a GT25R. I first had it tuned @ 6psi and made very minimal power....I bumped it up to 10psi and it made much better power due to the efficiency zone the turbo was operating in. I'd be curious to see what power it makes and how much boost it needs to make that power.
 
Old Dec 18, 2011 | 07:56 PM
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We are well aware of that, I designed this setup for him. The initial goal was a reliable 250whp with room to grow.

I originally advised him to use a larger turbine housing for lower drive pressure and better pump gas numbers, but for the short term he picked the small housing for a lower boost threshold.

It will be a whole different ball game when he steps up to the .8x A/R housing. Especially in terms of whp/psi gains.

This turbo is still quite efficient at the PR he is currently running. It would still be in the 74% efficiency island.

Which GT25R do you have? If it's the 2554 in the small housing, you may want to consider a bigger compressor wheel (60mm exducer) and the bigger .6x A/R turbine housing.

I really do not think the GT2554R in the .4x A/R housing should be mated to the L15. It is a better match for the 1.2L iDSI motors.
 

Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Dec 18, 2011 at 08:06 PM.
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Have you thought about using EMS or something other than greddy?
 
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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AEM EMS-4....I was previously using an F/IC but there were too many problems
 
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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Arton already had the Emanage, so he went with that and so far it seems to be adequate.

I will be using an AEM EMS though.
 
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 05:20 PM
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which AEM ems is the way to go? how does the wiring work on that?
 
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 06:27 PM
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Currently the plan is to use the EMS-4, their newer universal standalone, because I don't believe I need the more involved even with two turbos to account for.. Mainly I don't have a whole ton of inputs so I don't see the whole 9 yards being necessary. If I needed to log and capture individual cylinder thermocouples/knock sensors then I would probably go that route. For now it seems this will suffice.

With harness it was only $1100, so about half of the full series 2 EMS. It only has one cam input so its about perfect for our SOHC VTEC engines. Better yet, it can only run 4 coil packs and 4 injectors. So no extra fluff and less to go wrong. The meth injectors will just be run by the Snow Performance Progressive Injection computer and solenoids, so I don't have to worry about that.

I am still working the kinks out, and there are many. So I don't have the answers to that at this time. The goal is to use the stock ECU to run as much as possible, including A/C, dash panel, etc. but do the tuning and hardware support via AEM. Like the Bisimoto CR-Z.

This will be the most difficult part of my build.
 

Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Dec 19, 2011 at 06:50 PM.
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #35  
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The AEM F/IC doesn't entirely agree with the Fit's ECU, either does the E-Manage system. Besides AEM's EMS-4, those two are the most commonly used piggyback units. I was using a K20A1 ECU with my F/IC, but when I switched to the EMS-4 it was paired with the original ECU.
 
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #36  
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I had the FIC on my L15A1 with little difficulty once initial setup was sorted.

Granted the GE8 ECU is more finnicky, but of those I know who have used it and a couple of which I setup, they have had success. Several of which are running more than 200whp. Granted it is not the best device for the job but for the cost it is a capable little computer.

Were you forced to sacrifice anything controlled by the stock ECU, like dash functions with the EMS-4?
 

Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Dec 19, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
Old Dec 20, 2011 | 07:59 AM
  #37  
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I had the K20 ECU outfitted to read exactly like the stock L15 ECU, thanks to Rywire re-wiring everything and providing me with a new wire harness. I didn't loose any control over any of my dash functions because of this. The F/IC and Emanage can support a good amount of power for their cost.
 
Old Jan 29, 2012 | 02:52 AM
  #38  
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hmmm this new AEM EMS 4 seems quite interesting, something i can use in the future for a standalone. Chris have u installed this yet? how is it so far?
 
Old Feb 7, 2012 | 12:09 PM
  #39  
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Not installed yet, I don't know if you need the EMS-4 Arton. Hows it going so far? Hit the dyno yet on some real boost?
 
Old Feb 23, 2012 | 11:41 PM
  #40  
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Nice boosted Fit. Wonder if It can keep up with my k24a2 swap with Greddy kit on the Civic
 



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