Hi everyone, this is my very first post and i it would be very nice if you could help me a bit by answering my questions.
I'm a newbie and i own a 2010 GE8 and i want to get more power out of the l15a7 unit. However i dont want to swap the engine nor turbo it. So far i've made various mods to the engine such as cold air intake, changed most of the exhaust system, put a piggyback, P&P and blueprint the engine.
Now if want to mod the camshaft and change the pistons.

I'm interesteed by cams made by JUN, Bisimoto and Cat cams.
First of all, i daily drive my car (not that much now) and i do track days(more and more).
I expect to rev the car to around 8k.

Frankly i really dont know what to install in my car.
Its either going to be the Level 3 bisimoto camshaft or Jun re-grind or maybe the 290 / 272° cams made by Cat cams.

Has anyone tried one of these yet?
And also i want to use high compression pistons, what compression is best for this setup? (95 oktan is the highest i can get where i live..)

Thank you

 

Check out the racing section in the forums there is a discussion about high lift cams. I would also ask DAM about cams and other useful info in your pursuit for more power. Also in the high lift discussion there are links about why re-grinds are not good compared to cast ones.

 

i would love to see something done for the l15 head

 

You have already pulled, disassembled, mic'd and rebuilt the motor to blueprint as well as separated, disassembled, ported and polished the head?

 

A full blueprint is SUPER comprehensive, and if you have done so

You may want to engage DSM's consulting services here as he has helped build more than a few L series engines. Your's is the first GE or L15A7 I have heard some one take this far in an NA build though.

The L15A7 has a different head and rocker design than the L15A1 so MAKE SURE the cams can be interchanged! Just because they market it as an L series cam may not mean it fits your application...

Bi$imoto does have all the pieces but...$$$$... And they expect a core to regrind, so if you don't plan to have weeks of down time mailing them yours you can buy one from them... again $$$

NO MATTER WHAT, Keep us posted!!! I'm eager to see what kind of results you can cook up!

Have you done any dyno plots? What EMS/piggyback are you using to tune and how was wiring it?

 

I can think of a few GEs overseas making ~130-140whp, those builds are so expensive your eyes will bleed though. A couple of which run my prescription.

In general they are not especially reliable though, but I attribute that to what I suspect are machining and assembly inconsistencies/errors.

Which is odd because there are boosted builds being DD'd making almost twice that, some through auto transmissions that have yet to run into issues that have been brought to my attention at least. That is mainly why I suspect machining/assembly issues to be the culprit of those difficulties.

 

In in case this gets interesting.

 

I think both the Jun & Bisimoto are re-grinds... not 100% sure though.
here's some links

CR-Z discussion Jun Camshaft? - Honda CRZ Forum: Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums

Jun's press release JUN AUTO - JUN AUTO JAPAN - HOT NEWS
Jun't product info JUN AUTO - JUN HIGH LIFT CAMSHAFTS and Kit - HONDA L15A/LEA

here's Bisi's build thread.... great info in here Bisimoto's quest for a 500+hp, eco-friendly CRZ! - Honda CRZ Forum: Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums

OP where are you from?

 

As far asI know both Jun and bisimoto's camshafts for the fits are regrinds. Cat cams are the only ones that I know of that aren't.

 

Yep. And there page is a major PITA and really only seems to load on IE, plus there are very few US distributors...

 

well since were on the topic of internals, anyone know of a good cheap source for rods & pistons?

 

thasniperwolf: thanks for the info!

DiamondStarMonsters:
Yes, the engine has been fully blueprinted and the head, ported and polished the head and i also shaved the head a bit, around 0.3mm, the compression should have gone up a little bit. All the work was done by a shop and not me.
At then end, i want a fairly reliable car even if means not having the maximum horsepowers. I truly appreciated any advices or informations if you give me.

TPColgett: thank you man, took around more than a month to blueprint the engine! I'm using the Dastek Q+ piggyback for tuning the engine. It's really not bad because i can choose between different settings depending on what fuel i'm running.
As for the dyno, the last time i dynoed the car, it pulled a 113whp at 7500rpms. The guy who did the tuning said that the dyno is known for giving lower numbers. He estimates the real number to be around 150-150hp at the crank.

 

113WHP in these cars is going to be closer to ~130-135BHP, which would still be pretty good.

I'd be curious to see the dyno sheet, dyno type, atmospheric conditions and the correction factor used.

.3mm is a lot taken off the head. So a noticeable bump in compression for sure. I'd be curious to know what adjustment was made to the timing chain tensioner, and what affect that had on the mechanical timing.


On a stock cam NA fit, stock deck height and no material taken off the head.. torque is falling off pretty fast before 7k and just spinning higher on its own won't usually make power.

Speaking of which I am still looking to have an adjustable gear made for our cars. There is a certain popular import cam maker I've been talking with that seems to be receptive to my suggestions about such things for these cars, should know more within the next few weeks...

How many miles were on the motor when it was taken apart? Any pictures of the main or rod bearings?

Dastek Q is what a lot of folks over seas are using, with much success.

 

Oh its around 130-135 Bhp then.

Actually, my dynosheet is back in Indonesia (I'm currently living in France right now for studies...). I'll figure out a way to post it soon. It was dynoed with Dynapack. As for atmospheric conditions, the car is in Jakarta, Indonesia. So the temperature was problably around 28 to 30° Celcius. The fuel was 95oktan.

Sorry, i'm really a newbie, the garage did all the work so i dont know what they did to the timing chain tensioner but whatever they did it works quite well. Max rev it set at 7800rpms but i rarely rev it that high as peak hp is at 7500rpm. As for the torque, i really forgot what the numbers were. I'll get that dynosheet.

Adjustable gear? Let me know if anything comes up

As for the cam profiles, i'm thinking of doing a regrind but i still dont know what shop i'm going to choose to get the job done nor the profile i want. But i want a cam that doesn't sacrifice to much low-mid power,torque, and that has a peak hp at around 7500rpms maybe. Do you have any suggestions?

Nope, no pictures of the rods bearings. The engine is still super new. When the motor was pulled it had around 21.000 km on the clock (13.670miles). Now the engine has done around 25.000Km.

 

+1 Wanna see the "under the curve" bits when you can post it.



I had a friend who got his hands on a proto type made for an old first gen golf road race car. It had a weighted gear with sliding bolts, held under pressure with what looked like motorcycle wet clutch springs. At around 3K, centripetal force slid it out and advanced the cam timing. OldSkool Mechanical Vtak yo Don't know who made it or how, but that little rabbit of his was a local street terror

 

Got an update and they have a mule motor enroute to their facility already.. doesn't mean anything for sure but its encouraging.

 

Ah I knew it'd get interesting

So stock valves and springs have no problem to ~8k? I guess on a stock motor no real point though except to eliminate a gear change... very interested in this dyno sheet.

 

If you are going that far to replace the pistons then you should look at the scary, skinny, long stock connecting rods and think about replacing them at the same time.

 

Yes stock valves, springs, camshaft have no problem to be reved that high. Actually since i had the car blueprinted, i've been to the track 2 times. And each time i really pushed the car/engine to the maximum and never had any problem.

 

Well i've been told that since the since the connecting rods are already forged in the GE fits, those are strong enough to hold the abuse. I'm not planning to rev the car over 8000 rpm...