hondata help
You are probably running crappy fuel or low octane. Try a quality 89 or 91 octane on the next tank. Then on a second fillup look at another datalog. That first tank is so the ecu can readjust to the higher octane/quality
My car runs the same on shitty 89 or clean 87. On clean 89 it SEEMS to make a positive effect
EDIT Avoid Techron and Chevron stations like the plague
My car runs the same on shitty 89 or clean 87. On clean 89 it SEEMS to make a positive effect
EDIT Avoid Techron and Chevron stations like the plague
Last edited by 13fit; Apr 29, 2013 at 01:37 PM.
Well, we will see if DSM want to chime in here...
BUT this is something we have discovered and are working on.
Knock Level is a % based reading that the factory Honda Knock Sensor is picking up in the combustion chamber. Here is a great definition of what a "Knock Sensor" is and does that I found online:
"The knock sensor responds to spark knock caused by Pre-detonation of the Air/Fuel mixture. As the flame front moves out from the spark plug ignition point, pressure waves in the chamber crash into the piston or cylinder walls resulting in a sound known as a knock or ping. This is caused by using a fuel with a low octane rating, overheating, or over advanced timing. Sometimes it can be caused by hot carbon deposits on the piston or cylinder head that raise compression. A knock sensor is comprised of Piezoelectric materials; Crystals that when impacted, generate a voltage (same idea as a BBQ ignitor). This voltage is monitored by the computer, and when an irregularity is detected, the computer corrects timing in VVT (variable valve timing) engines, or triggers a DTC Diagnostic Trouble Code) in older vehicles."
Now, looking at your log, seems your experiencing significant timing retard while rolling onto the throttle in 2-3 gear?
That's what we have seen and are working on resolving...
up to 9* of timing getting pulled is a HUGE penalty to mid-range/tq
BUT this is something we have discovered and are working on.
Knock Level is a % based reading that the factory Honda Knock Sensor is picking up in the combustion chamber. Here is a great definition of what a "Knock Sensor" is and does that I found online:
"The knock sensor responds to spark knock caused by Pre-detonation of the Air/Fuel mixture. As the flame front moves out from the spark plug ignition point, pressure waves in the chamber crash into the piston or cylinder walls resulting in a sound known as a knock or ping. This is caused by using a fuel with a low octane rating, overheating, or over advanced timing. Sometimes it can be caused by hot carbon deposits on the piston or cylinder head that raise compression. A knock sensor is comprised of Piezoelectric materials; Crystals that when impacted, generate a voltage (same idea as a BBQ ignitor). This voltage is monitored by the computer, and when an irregularity is detected, the computer corrects timing in VVT (variable valve timing) engines, or triggers a DTC Diagnostic Trouble Code) in older vehicles."
Now, looking at your log, seems your experiencing significant timing retard while rolling onto the throttle in 2-3 gear?
That's what we have seen and are working on resolving...
up to 9* of timing getting pulled is a HUGE penalty to mid-range/tq
You are probably running crappy fuel or low octane. Try a quality 89 or 91 octane on the next tank. Then on a second fillup look at another datalog. That first tank is so the ecu can readjust to the higher octane/quality
My car runs the same on shitty 89 or clean 87. On clean 89 it SEEMS to make a positive effect
EDIT Avoid Techron and Chevron stations like the plague
My car runs the same on shitty 89 or clean 87. On clean 89 it SEEMS to make a positive effect
EDIT Avoid Techron and Chevron stations like the plague
And why should some one avoid Chevron
i have 08 sport AT stock not tuned
driving option: S
intake T1R chamber intake
Spoon N1 muffler
ive read that exhaust noise can cause false knock readings
i step on my gas pedal not too soft not too hard
highway condition: a little bit congested but passable, a lot of switching lanes
sad to say gas is yes 89 = $1.21 per litre
i rarely go for higher ones because of the rate
driving option: S
intake T1R chamber intake
Spoon N1 muffler
ive read that exhaust noise can cause false knock readings
i step on my gas pedal not too soft not too hard
highway condition: a little bit congested but passable, a lot of switching lanes
sad to say gas is yes 89 = $1.21 per litre
i rarely go for higher ones because of the rate
Yea, see, that info isn't anything outside standard norms...
I REALLY think that the stock Knock tables are just overly sensitive...
I have been talking to guy's who tune K series engines regularly with K pro, and they will even resort to just turning Knock Control OFF.
I will be happy to share more of my findings once I have something to report back!
I REALLY think that the stock Knock tables are just overly sensitive...
I have been talking to guy's who tune K series engines regularly with K pro, and they will even resort to just turning Knock Control OFF.
I will be happy to share more of my findings once I have something to report back!
I know this is a bit old but thought I could shed some light on your original questions.
The Hondata help goes over knock level. It is basically the difference in octane ratings from 100 RON to 90 RON. A 50% knock level reading means the ECU is reading the octane as 95 RON. It is kind of a superficial reading and can be ignored. Since I run 91 octane (about 95 RON), I could normally get around a 50% knock level which is normal.
Knock retard. This should be addressed as you should not be knocking normally. I do not see any knock in my normal driving so you may need to address your knock tables. This happened to me using the stock calibration map in FP. This map does have issues all over it with with knock retard and once I began tunning mine I have none. If you check your datalogs, note the load you were having issues around. Change your load to read kPa and this will be much more useful. I have mine display 0-102 kPa with 0 in the warning values. Then you can locate the cells in the config and adjust the timing appropriately. I am going to try and start a FP calibration thread since more of us are getting them and hopefully we can help get some basemaps on here since Hondata has the built ins plus I think only Tyler's lol.
The Hondata help goes over knock level. It is basically the difference in octane ratings from 100 RON to 90 RON. A 50% knock level reading means the ECU is reading the octane as 95 RON. It is kind of a superficial reading and can be ignored. Since I run 91 octane (about 95 RON), I could normally get around a 50% knock level which is normal.
Knock retard. This should be addressed as you should not be knocking normally. I do not see any knock in my normal driving so you may need to address your knock tables. This happened to me using the stock calibration map in FP. This map does have issues all over it with with knock retard and once I began tunning mine I have none. If you check your datalogs, note the load you were having issues around. Change your load to read kPa and this will be much more useful. I have mine display 0-102 kPa with 0 in the warning values. Then you can locate the cells in the config and adjust the timing appropriately. I am going to try and start a FP calibration thread since more of us are getting them and hopefully we can help get some basemaps on here since Hondata has the built ins plus I think only Tyler's lol.
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