What I mean by a real IM?

Runners that arent as long as the engine is tall damn near, and a real plenum that doesnt suffocate cylinder 1 or overdrive cylinder 4


Think B18C5 integra Type R manifold design. That manifold gave edelbrock and skunk2 absolute hell when both companies were trying to create an improved intake manifold for the Type R. Honda definitely did their homework when creating the B18C5. I belive the awesome PerformerX from edelbrock only netted an average 2or 3 horsepower over the OEM piece, though edelbrock did get more usable power under that long curve!

 

I cannot honestly claim to have any engineering ability when it comes to designing an IM, but I do have one of the Weapon R ones
I preemptively sent it out to be inspected and braced, but it still would need an aditional vaccum tee added before it would be a direct swap/install. Frankly it would also need porting to clean up the runners after the bracing welding seeped in

Form all the research I can do, they did appear to make gains over stock, but fitment, durability and tuning issues really made them a non selling item. Still the one actuall dyno graph I found was something nuts like 12whp

Bi$i's Golden Eagle IM has a host of other things to deal with besides just clearance as it relocates the TB to a bottom center mount.... Which is AWESOME, but really impractical for the average user. Fab is certainly required, and what little I can tell of IM design, it is really only good for a FI setup.

In a Fwd application, if your trying to go effectively around any low speed corners it is insanely difficult to make use of any more than around 225wtq or so...

So, going off DSM's ( ) thoughts and my primary application for the Fit being AutoX, I am almost begining to think that I may not need to do a rotating assembly build to get close to the right ball park on an intial FI build...

Then again, I just recently started a campaign to have Fit's classed into a class where all intake track modifications are allowed, so if that happens I will be monkeying with either the IM I have or potentialy ITB's before I start playing with turbo/SC setups...

 

Irtb's ftw...

 

Oh, LOL and apparently these are now on sale 50% off
L15 and LEA1 H beam rod set - $419.99 : Bisimoto Engineering, Where Efficiency Meets Technological Perfection
...

Steel H Beam Featuuring ARP bolts.... Sooooo same as K1? LOL
$385
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ko...FRSFfgodIDkA7A

 

So I am wondering if I need to sleeve the block before building the bottom end. Or just blueprint everything before putting the forged internals in? Also thinking of cryo treating the crank. Any one have any thoughts? Motor has 70k original miles.

 

The engine will be turbo running 8-10 pounds of boost at altitude.

 

So 8-10 psi is actually right around the top of the "safe" zone for stock factory internals.

I know a boosted GD on stock internals that is over 180+ whp and driven daily on 9-10psi.

I have NO idea what altitude will do to the equation though.... Only time I have seen a block sleeved was when they were pushing more than 20psi, so I don't think that is needed. Honda also uses forged cranks, so that is not really a weak link.

What it really seems to come down to is budget... K1 Rods and Wiseco Pistons (standard bore and lower comp at 9:1) as per DSM would be more than enough for your build it sounds like. If you want to throw a full blue print at that it cannot hurt. Only really important things you haven't mentioned yet are supporting fuel mods, IE 310cc injectors and a fuel pump. Also I would at least run the IK-22 plugs gapped to smaller than spec.

 

Well it will get forged internals valves,springs a cat cam and a cleaned up head. So I am not worried about internals. Obviously as pat of that it would get better injectors and plugs. First purchase is the Hondata. Then will start acquiring the rest. Goal is to have everything by Dec. and pull the motor over winter since i won't need to drive the car.

 

Shoot, I would throw on a clutch at that point as well since especially with a cam and boost you will be making a significant step up in power.... I'd also delete the stupid Clutch Delay Valve which will help with hard 1-2 shifts

If you need a FlashPro there is a STEAL here in the classifieds right now!
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/sale...-flashpro.html

 

Right now I am at 9 with 200whp and daily drive. Someday I'll try to push it to 300whp, but that'll be a while from now.

 

What sort of setup? Based on a kit? Additions? Assuming tuned on FP...

 

Some of the info is in the Ramey built turbo thread. My exhaust is a skunk2 catback with a Megan axel back modified to fit. No catalytic converter.

No plans for the 300whp yet. I am busy with school and trying to build an 86 crx si.

 

Oh duh! I thought the Ramey build was yours. Still some VERY clean work

 

You are on all stock internals also Hehn right? I emailed them in regards to the manifold. they have the cleanest I have seen so far. I have a laundry lis of part to acquire this year.

 

Email also sent LOL

 

Yeah all internals are stock for now.

 

So I have been getting BORED and started collecting/recording specs and data as well as playing with data (Mostly IM runner length wave calculations.)

Figure I would consolidate info in a Google Doc and post here for anyone interested:
Honda GD Fit Facts and IM/Runner Calculations

This is for me and I will tweak/play/update when I have time. If my math is wrong or you disagree, great you can do it yourself

 

Also, these guys appear to be a US distributor for CAT cams and are listing specs!!!

Street:Cat Cams - Honda GD L15 Street Performance Camshaft (Fit/Jazz) drop in cam

"Race": http://www.vacmotorsports.com/catalo...ts-fitjazz.htm

And it looks like CatCams has updated there page:
http://www.catcams.co.uk/acatalog/Ho..._1.5l_16v.html

 

Did anyone find an adjustable cam gear? or is that unnecessary?

 

I don't know about necessity, but other than DSM who had contact with an unknown company who was considering doing it, I know of no other adjustable cam gear possibilities...

To quote one of the many informative old DSM posts:

Remember, we do have a cam chain, unlike the belt's on D/B series: