wondering if anyone has used any of the bisimoto stuff. i noticed that these are on sale. says there are three in stock
L15 and LEA1 H beam rod set - $419.99 : Bisimoto Engineering, Where Efficiency Meets Technological Perfection

i also found these
Steel Billet Crower Connecting Rod Honda Fit & Jazz 5.866 C To C (Set/4)

K1 Technologies Connecting Rods (HH5865AAWB4) Honda Fit and « Free Shipping

really i just want to see if anyone has been building the l15, since people are making things for the inside of this engine now, is anyone building these things?

 

Actually, forged internals have been around for a while... couple years at least. There was one "fully built" turbo engine on here a while ago, but the owner was never happy with the results, even though they were north of 200+ whp.

Were still missing a readily available source for cams that is not a re grind, and an adjustable cam gear...

Bi$imoto is quality stuff...just...$$$$....

There are NUMEROUS other ways to buy internals for an L series that are cheaper...

Still can't wait for some one to beat me to a fully blueprinted, punched out and lumpy cam'd NA build

PS: Rods would be a BIG and important step for a high HP build FI or not... Stock ones... not so tough...

 

gd3kamiwanab was the first dude I remember with a built block.

 

Ding, we have a winner. Could not for the life of me remember the user name.

Pretty certain he parted it out not long after

 

Yep here it is, LONG thread with sad ending as the car was fully parted out and sold.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ld-thread.html

Was running 22psi at one point and made 223hp and 216Tq. I believe that was on the original 60T "T25" that came in the HKS kit...

 

yeah i remember his build.

i guess i really wanted more people to do this.
i'm not gonna lie though if i had the money i would go with a k20 swap.
even with my turbo i still want more and this thing is putting 180 to the ground. one of these days i'll get a spare engine to build, but until then i guess i'll keep my eyes open and stock up on parts.

 

wish we could of see that run owell

 

The K swap is at least a $6K up front investment...at LEAST

A turbo build... can be pieced together over time.

hehn If you are already running boost, there are LOADS of ways to crank it up, but from that build thread, you can learn a lot about about the tolerances of a L15...

I believe the advice was to stay under 10lbs boost and check plugs monthly on a stock motor with 310cc injectors...

BTW, if you want details on some nifty L series specific FI parts, CALL Bi$i... They were doing some spring cleaning...

 

Id chose Crower over the other choices. From what i been told from a known engine builder the Bisimoto is a Chinese made rod like Eagle/Scat units, the quality isnt bad but still not as well known as some other makers like Crower, and when they are weighed, the rod weights weren't precise as Crowers. I know Crower units are actually made in house in San Diego, ive been to their facility. When i used to work for Escort Racing when they had a shop in Covina we used to pick up the custom made rods for RB20, RB25, RB26 and 2UZ/1UZFE boosted race motors and they were precision made quality stuff.

 

180hp and you want more........dunno what to say the name of the game is to move more air......and a 1.5 can only move so much. Maybe you need another platform (car) to get your speed bug satisfied . Ill gladly buy that turbo kit for the right price, I will be more than content with 180hp

 

Dont doubt the ability of a 1.5L

BMW made a 1000hp 1.5L

It didnt rev as high as a super sport bike either

 

Everyone in the turbo era of F1 made a 1.5l with 1000bhp...they were just full qualifying engines that were EVIL to drive and were rebuilt all the time

 

One of the issues that gd3kamispeed had that we don't know is the flashpro. At the end of the day the biggest holdup with building the L15 was tuning, NA or FI. HAving the Hondata product I would think that you could build a fairly reliable built L15 that could turn out 225-240 HP with pretty solid reliability. It will still cost but should be less than a K swap.

 

I 100% agree. A built motor with a well spec'd turbo and tuned via FlashPro could easily hit thoae numbers.

The main costs are going to be in fab, machine work and tuning... then clutch and tires

 

Everybody loves the K but I think being able to have this motor perform will be fun. And the K has the same piggyback questions and is also hella expensive. 4-5k k just for a motor and trans. and then you need to do everything else for the swap. I can't see you getting it done for less than 7k without some serious connections. Probably more like 10k.

 

Why go K when a REAL traditional runner/plenum intake manifold and a mild cam will equal over 140 to the crank? cheaper then the K mounts alone lol

still gotta buy tuning for each setup.

You can get reground cams for under $200 all day. The cam I used in my ol crx was somewhere around $125 turn around, send in, work, sent back. Its been several years since that though.

 

Parts alone, up front cash wise like I said above for a K swap are $6K before install fab and tune... and that's if your doing it on the CHEAP...

 

13fit what do you mean by a "real" IM?

Using consistent trap speeds and exact weight I know I'm making 110 at the wheels. That is just "bolt on's" a good exhaust and tuning.

 

i think he would be referring to a weapon R or Eagle one type. The issue with the eagle on is space in the GD3 engine compartment.

 

Torque and crank speed (piston accel/decel) are what limit most shortblocks, as is the case with the L15A1/7.

K1 Rods and Wiseco Pistons will take you far if assembled properly and run with a clean tune. The most I'm comfortable with on a stock longblock is about 7750-8000rpm and 200wtq for L15A1 and about 225wtq for L15A7.. though anything beyond 200wtq on either (regardless of RPM) should really be using aftermarket anyways as you will want to get in there to open up your P-Ws and ring gaps if you will be running a majority gasoline fuel only.

Alcohol primary fuels (Ethanol & Methanol) or supplemental Water/Alcohol injection would keep things cooler and allow you more safety margin on the factory tolerances.

It is my opinion that in terms of practicality, cost and whole drivetrain longevity.. until you are approaching the 300wtq+ mark you are better off sticking with the L-series vs. K or B swapping.

Unless you are looking for that power to use in anything more serious than a weekend-warrior circuit or drag car.