Not yet. I'm going to get one though. Don't have much choice at this point.
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Quote:
For the cel, you have tried a celfix or a o2 sim ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-U...5458QQtcZphoto
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Hindsight on the quote, didn't know some new posts popped in while I was writing.

Funny but the seller wrote me saying that he carries them and that's EXACTLY where the link you provided leads to at $35. The same item is on eBay for $5, $6, and $7. That's a no brainer.

The problem I have with this is that the listing for the headers says:

"Direct bolt-on without modification"
"Utilizes factory 02 sensor position"
"Hardware included"

I live 15 miles from the nearest auto parts store, so 30 miles round trip to purchase nuts and bolts for $6.51. Nuts and bolts are "HARDWARE", right ?

I had to reroute wires beacause the sensor location on the new headers is approximately 16" away from the stock headers sensor location. Does that sound like "Utilizing factory 02 sensor position" to you ? This meant that I had to cut retainer clips. Doesn't that qualify as "MODIFICATION" ?

Now I'm supposed to purchase a CEL/MIL Simulator/Eliminator ? Sounds like "MORE HARDWARE" to me. And this does what ? Goes where ? Hmmm, sounding a lot like another "MODIFICATION" to me.

Feel free to correct me if I am wrong but I don't think it's right. It's not that I'll have to pay what will end up amounting to about $20 to finish the install.

It's the principal.

 

First for GettiNaFit
The O2 sensor that screws into the cat (second one) should be the only one that needs to be simulated since the other (first one) gets straight exhaust gasses from the header on the stock header so it should be reading the same way it did stock anyway just farther down the exhaust pipe before the cat.

At least I hope that's the case.

Next for Mx6GT89

I did a search for Dyno Testing and that was one of the first prices I found. Found one with prices that are more in line with what you quoted after a bit more searching however that's about 1,000 miles away.

Clever idea. Wonder if that's all the CEL/MIL Simulators/Emulators on eBay amout to.

Thanks for that idea I may end up trying it.

 

2hot, That makes sense!

 

As for Dyno testing I found this on eBay. A Dyno for under $250
http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQs...enginuitysales

Before one of you jumps on it !!! I called the tech support and they said they are a few weeks from releasing a new version of the software. Free updates for 1 year anyway so that doesn't matter.

What matters in my opinion is that they are still trying to get it all ready for the 2006 models and when I asked about the 2007 FIT they had no idea (from what I gathered that it even existed). They did say the basic diagnostics for Honda should work on it but it looks like we'll have to wait until the end of next year for the enhanced diagnostics for the 07 FIT.

Since they didn't know about the FIT I didn't even ask if the Dyno would work with it. What a shame, sure would be sweet to get a Dyno at that price along with all the scan tools it has.

 

You can buy "powerdyn". http://www.jcdperformance.com
We use that for us EP3 club. Very good ! More precision than a dyno. Why ? A dyno you can make saye what you whant. If you can, buy the normal version. The obd2 version is not very precision.

with it, same. But you use alway the same road, and adjust the parameter for the humidity / artmo pressure / air temp and it's okay.


For o2 sim. i have just put a example. The first cat sensor is the A/F sensor and the second is just for know if your Cat is KO.

In europe, all EP3 we have added the o2 cel fix (spark plug non-fouler) all having the cel come after 500-1000km.
We must disable it in ECU or buy a electronic o2sim.

http://www.o2simulator.com/24803.html

Sensor signal = Black
Sensor ground = Grey
Heater + 12V = White
Heater ground = White

or ? :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/O2-Ox...71386451QQrdZ1

 

Any loss in low end power?
I have an a/t, and thats a big concern to me.

 

Ah, this makes a lot of sense. See, the original OBX ads on eBay said that it included a cat, but it doesn't. That explains the low low price. I think I'll pass.

 

vbo
I'll check into that, thanks. LOL, they're under construction too so I'll have to wait. I know a regular Dyno changes as the fluids used change temp and density. The one I had the link for is for one that plugs into the OBDII port and into a laptop pc so it would be more accurate in my opinion assuming you use the same conditions for each test i.e. same starting place and same direction in the same conditions.

Jimmy101
No loss at any RPM that includes low end. I know what you mean it's a little sluggish in the low end stock. While it doesn't make a dramatic change in the very low end it does make it a little less sluggish in very low RPM's and the power is more consistant thru out the RPM's. It has more power and I don't need a Dyno to tell me that. Remember it eliminates the cat and that robs power to begin with.

sharkytm
I don't blame you a bit. Even after telling the seller about the install he still hasn't changed the listing. He says that's how the manufacturer describes it. So even though he knows his description is misleading and outright fraudulent he continues to run it that way. He is very polite and we are still communicating, trying to get it resolved to some extent and the headers are nice it's just that they are designed for the 2005 Jazz not the 2007 North American FIT.

And wouldn't you know it the http://www.obxracingsports.com/ site is down and is/was supposed to "relaunch in MAY 2006". Hmmm, makes one wonder.

 

It does include the cat. Thats a high-flow cat. Basically a resonator.

 

When I get a CEL/MIL/ Simulator/Emulator I'll have to take the rear sensor out to install it so I'll find out if it is or not then. I'll probe it with a coathanger to see if there's anything inside or if it's just an open chamber. Sure was light for a cat.

Hindsight is usually 20/20, was too interested in painting the outside with the TBC to look inside it real good but it appeared to be empty.

 

Took the rear sensor out today and stuck a wire clothes hanger is the pipe and was able to run it all the way thru the wide section without any resistance so it is NOT a cat high flow or otherwise.

 

I think you cannot loss power with the OBX. Why ? Look the mugen :
http://www.jhpusa.com/catalog/images...gd.exhmanf.jpg

and we have look inside the OBX Race Header for EP3 and the weldings interiors are smooth.

"On a small displacement engine exhaust manifold design is critical in order to produce additional torque and power. Mugen utilizes a 4-1 design and high quality stainless steel construction. The result is a solid 5% increase in power throughout the rev range"

And on the OBX you remove the CAT. It's better...


I think the Header for L15A are same on L13A (same = bolt-on).

 

The latest news is that the seller on eBay reimbursed my for the cost of the CEL Eliminator so the only additional expense I had was the 3 nuts and bolts.

He has been very courteous and I am happy with the headers. I just wish he would correct the listing to reflect the info he now has but he hasn't done it.

As for the Dyno. I just purchased an Palm Auterra OBD II OBD2 2 Scan Tool & Dyno off eBay so I hope to be able to Dyno it before long.

For more on the Dyno and Scanner here's their website.
http://www.auterraweb.com/

Has anyone used this, and if so how did you like it ?

Still haven't come up with a sound track. Maybe when I Dyno it since I would like to do it both with the stock air intake and with my CAI. But I'm not going to change headers back just for a base. Perhaps I can find a stock sport M/T to Dyno for comparison.

 

There was plenty of room to slide them out the top. The new header went in the same way. The pipe on the other hand was all done from beneath the car.

 

The Auterra Dyno-Scan Palm arrived the other day and I set up a Palm M130 with the software got it all hooked up and it works on my Jeep Grand Cherokee. So I know it works.

However on the USDM GD3 2007 Honda FIT. I keep getting the "No Communication (Vehicle)" message and I have done all the troubleshooting that is in the manual. Even tried adjusting the Sampling rate and CAN 6 in preferences. Also tried it with just the Generic.PDB, with the Honda-Acura.PDB, and with all the .PDB files.

I also have a ScanGauge 2 which works perfectly on the Honda FIT so I know the OBD 2 port is fully functional.

I have written the makers auterraweb.com and I am waiting for a reply.

So AT THIS POINT it looks like the Auterra Dyno-Scan Palm WONT WORK with the FIT yet. When I get an answer from them and a final answer as to whether or not this is going to work with the USDM Fit I will post it in a new thread. Hopefully with some Dyno numbers.


By the way the eBay seller for the OBX Headers still has NOT RETURNED FEEDBACK even though I did give him positive feedback, all things considered.

 

The Auterra Dyno-Scan Palm didn't work. I guess the Fit is CAN and the one I got wasn't CAN compatible.

Don't know if their updated one would work or not. What a shame.

 

I ordered the same header off ebay before I had seen this thread. I am taking it to my local muffler shop, they have a high flow cat that is made with the o2 sensor hole built into the cat, we are going to try adding it to the downpipe and see if it keeps the dreaded cel from coming up.

I'll hopefully have some pictures and info up and see this will work.

 

You can go with the spark plug non foulers that were mentioned earier in this thread and it will take care of the CEL and stop it from comming on. Just drill the one out as described and screw it into the other one from there it's easy to figure out what to do with it.

The one shown IS the right one so that is the part # to look for 42002.

You may need to do that even if you do put a high flow cat on. Remember it's the second sensor (the one where the cat is) that causes the CEL to come on not the first one.

Now if you can get them to plug the first O2 sensor bung and make a new one higher up the downpipe closer to the flange that is the one thing that would make the install a LOT easier. That way you wont have to re-route the wiring for the first sensor like I did.

And "dailod" DID NOT LEAVE FEEDBACK so don't leave him any since HE WONT CORRECT THE LISTING or leave you any. He knowingly continues to falsely advertise the headers as a direct replacement for the 07 FIT.

Let us know how it goes and good luck.

 

From the looks of it from your post, the cat that he has is made the same as the factory one, just shorter, I will get the spark plug defouler just in case, but it will have that cat replacing the bulge of nothingness. If it throws a cel, I'll go from there, if we can't get it to work, I'll just have him put the factory header back on and just wait on a header actually made for a usdm Fit.

And if everything does work, I'll have post some pics of what we got to work.

 

Sounds like a plan. I'll be looking for your progress. I'm sure you'll get it to work either way.