That's cool what you did with the gauge. I would go more simple on the gauge face personally.


Damn those flanges need some serious work. I just bought a dremel and flex shaft yesterday so I'm looking to do a bunch of porting and gasket matching myself.

 

Thanks for posting, Yah on the gauges I prefer a better match for stock Fit gauges but I got a little creative these were actually the milder ones lol .

I started with a dremel, I ported my exhaust manifold and intake and head on my Audi A4. Whent threw so many bits though. Now I use a air powered die grinder and clean up with dremel. Need a compressor with big air tank though and at least 3/8ths hose.

 

I don't have a air compressor but yeah I bought two carbide bits people say they last a good while. Time will tell but man having the flex shaft is so sick its so thin you can really get inside and do work.

I have an evo 6466bb turbo divided t4 etc etc unfortunately its all put together now but when I do v3. Teardown in a few months I'll def get to use this tool a lot more.

 

that 5 bolt flange is upside down, it appears.

Looks like it will be closer flipped

 

The second one? not even close. Basic shape is simmilar, but thing has completely different 5 bolt pattern and much smaller in general. Trust me, I had the calipers out measuring and checking the specs to bitch at the seller. Unfortunately they were dead on for bolt pattern and spacing the turbo housing is just different.

 

shitty.


well atb least you can get the proper housing. much better then having to go with another turbo.

That reason specifically is why I stick with oem turbos or oem replica turbos. lots more parts available!

 

So bit late on the update but I did get the FIC from eBay with the boomslang civic harness still need to test that plug fits on my ecu then find a pin out for the civic ecu so I can repin the harness.

Could use a basemap if anyone has one?

Not much else happening work has been insane and had huge bday party for kids to prepare and clean up after.
Kids LOVED pony rides but damn that had to be the most miserable animal I've seen in long time. That pony hates his job lol!

 

havnt been up in this mutha for awhile. but anyways incase you were wondering or are still curiuos. the only IDENTICAL harness CONNECTORS and damn near same pinouts (except a couple) to the second gen fit, is the AMERICAN 2008-2010 honda accord 4cylinder. Which ironically has no HONDATA support either! Comes to tell me that there is something with this PCM that they dont want to touch or deal with.

 

Hmm ok I will try to confirm if civic one fits tonight if not I'll recoups some money on it in eBay at least.

 

well before you waste your time ill tell you right now it wont fit. connectors are totally different. Trust me i went thru all schematics for all connectors and pin outs already before. 08 - 10 accord pcm is like identical to second gen fits. . .

 

side note : i dont know if ARP has head studs for our motor but you should also invest in some for your build. . .even with perfect tuning on this motor head lift is bound to happen. C/R is higher than normal for a typical force induction build. Factory head studs (especially this econobox engine) probably have the strenth of twigs...if ARP has head studs for 1st gen L15, im sure they would work with our A7's....

 

No need for headstuds

The L series motors are much stronger and durable then the older D series motors, and I made 320whp on a 100% stock D16a6 motor in a crx.


Headstuds/bolt upgrades are mostly for higher rpms and big power. They are by no means a necessity if this turbo build stays under 300whp.

 

Lmao...the idiot trolls again...
Tell me what ur setup was on ur 320 a6...
What turbo?specs? How much psi?
Lets hear it mr know it all....

 

Hey D lets try to keep it civil , This thread is intended more for sharing info/opinions rather than condeming opinions of others let just agree that we might have doubts about somethings expressed by other members. Of course debate is part of that but the name calling tells me this is not a debate but more a flaming.

Anyways you were right about the connectors very close but not a match.

Its not a waste of time for me to confirm and to take someone elses word alone when I have the parts just sitting here... well lets just say Im a doer not a follower.
I do appreciate the input, first of many major questions Ive had answered.

Im not planning to push major Boost especially not with such a small turbo on NA motor.

 

Holset HX 35 with the 12cm housing

factory turbo off some diesel truck

 

Sorry i didnt mean to ruin your thread. BUt reason for the FLAMING, goes beyond just this thread. People like 13Fit might fool 90% of people on this forum about how much he knows because he read somewhere or heard somewhere, but he cant fool the other 10% of people like me, that is actually speaking from expirence. You cant bullshit somebody whos done it, does it.
The point speaking, is that people like him are what make forums and communitys like these go no where/ get no where. Its pretty much a Joke and if people dont like a bullshitter being called out than the whole community can stay in the fairy tale that they are in.

To address 13fits claims, of The "L" series motors being stronger than the "D" series, is a fukking joke. I have yet to read any L15a7 make anywhere close to 300whp. highly doubt it and if someone has, i'd like to see it, and what they have done to the head to acheive this. I dont know who has made the most power on the First gen L15 but i can bet No one, if not 1 or 2 people, has made even 300whp. So im curious where and what are the facts that proves this econobox engine is a greater, better, stronger, more durable engine than any "D" series.
And than the famous quote of the century,

"Headstuds/bolt upgrades are mostly for higher rpms and big power. They are by no means a necessity if this turbo build stays under 300whp. "

This guy is plainly just STUPID and WRONG. Where the hell did he read or hear that factory headstuds are good for up to 300whp!?! Didnt he say the 'L' is better than "D"s? Yet his 'D' made 320 bone stock? So than why would the 'L' need studs at 300whp? LMFAO.
Force Induction Multiplies the Compression Ratio, so it is a good idea to add stronger head bolts/studs anytime going to force induction. Factory head studs are not designed for more pressure than factory, especially since they are Torque to Yield studs!
I can rant on more about how much of a joke this guy is but its a waste of time and im sure people that are open minded will already see that.

But yea back to O/P Kudos to you for actually going out there and doing it, im sure i can give you some pointers if you need it, but like everyone else that has gotten their hands dirty, you will only learn from your own mistakes and breaks.

 

i already know your bullshitting cuz a bone stock a6 is going to have trouble pushing that turbo to make 320whp...the fukk the a6 redline at agian? like 6500? ...lmao..not to mention poor headflow without vtec and the extra rpms like a z6 or y8...it would be more believable if you said z6 or y8 but like i said your a bull shitter...so you dont know any better than to search google.

 

d16a6 revs to 7200 rpms, not 6500.

a buddy's d16z6 with a t25 was almost as fast, until we were on the highway. Reason being I was not making more then 4psi til after 3900 rpms.



You have no evidence of an L series being stronger because of no specific turbo build?

read up on how our L series were made, and compare that to the old D series.

Honda made the D series to be durable and long lasting

Honda made the L series specifically for racing, and adapted it to the various markets with several versions of 1.2Ls, 1.3Ls, and 1.5Ls

Plain and simple, L series motor will shit the bed WAY after any factory D series, except for the very rare iron block D16A6 that makes up less then 1% of all d16a6 motors.

 

Lmao...your so full of crap its hilarious...its so hilarious that ill sit here and clown on you all day. Everything you say makes no sense. Guys typically use Hx35s on B-series and even on a B series theres some lag cause the turbo and depending on Exhaust housing. A Bone Stock A6 head could never flow enough to use the full potential of a HX35... And yet your saying you had a friend with a z6 t25 that was almost as fast as your 320 whp a6!?!? lmfao...on the highway too!?!?! omg... too funny...let me guess you made 320whp at 10psi huh? bahaha...Iron block A6?!? lmao...thats news to me..
Anyways as for the L-series motor i dont need any evidence cause theres no evidence proving that its a better motor. In fact if you know anything about engines and have actually seen the engine apart you can clearly see the motor is nothing of a D-series. The L series motor wasnt race inspired...your so retarded...just cuz they use the engine in a "certain" class in auto racing does not make the engine race inspired like the legendary B series engines. You have no clue what you are talking about. In fact im sure your probably one of those guys at the race track that brag about your 10 sec civic at home but didnt bring it to the track. Theres so much shit boiling out of your mouth i feel bad for other members in this forum that are naive to believe any of it.

 

legendary B series? are you kidding me? the Ds and Bs are nearly identical. some B series parts even fit into D series motors, and viseversa. All the electronics are the same, and even ecus are only a map difference.

plus the PM3 casting shared between d16a6, d15b2/b7 are the best for turbo builds, as with some porting they outflow all other D series heads. no vtec means more room to remove material.


Go hop on d-series.org and educate yourself on the D series world. The D series motors have way bigger stroke then the B series motors, so even with the much smaller bore, end up making more usable torque everywhere in boost.

ha, I bet you dont even know the L series motor is also used in small airplanes and in boats.

honda stated directly they developed the L series with racing in mind. That is why there are a ton of small details directed towards it. the connecting rods that are forged and then cracked and bolted together is just one detail of many.