Slims Turbo Build Thread
#41
06-07-2014, 07:09 PM
An hx35 12cm housing is set at .69ar. Spools around 4800-5200 on a d16a6. Makes a great freeway pulls turbo.
The d16a6 13fit is referring to had an iron main cap setup with an aluminum girdle. (I still have one in my rt4wd wagon)
There are only a handful of l15 engines worldwide making over 250hp, however they are have very impressive torque numbers and wide power bands.
Also, what does 10psi have to do with how much power he is making. Have you seen what. Holset will move in terms of cfm at 10psi?
Do research before turning into a troll yourself.
The d16a6 13fit is referring to had an iron main cap setup with an aluminum girdle. (I still have one in my rt4wd wagon)
There are only a handful of l15 engines worldwide making over 250hp, however they are have very impressive torque numbers and wide power bands.
Also, what does 10psi have to do with how much power he is making. Have you seen what. Holset will move in terms of cfm at 10psi?
Do research before turning into a troll yourself.
#42
06-07-2014, 07:36 PM
An hx35 12cm housing is set at .69ar. Spools around 4800-5200 on a d16a6. Makes a great freeway pulls turbo.
The d16a6 13fit is referring to had an iron main cap setup with an aluminum girdle. (I still have one in my rt4wd wagon)
There are only a handful of l15 engines worldwide making over 250hp, however they are have very impressive torque numbers and wide power bands.
Also, what does 10psi have to do with how much power he is making. Have you seen what. Holset will move in terms of cfm at 10psi?
Do research before turning into a troll yourself.
The d16a6 13fit is referring to had an iron main cap setup with an aluminum girdle. (I still have one in my rt4wd wagon)
There are only a handful of l15 engines worldwide making over 250hp, however they are have very impressive torque numbers and wide power bands.
Also, what does 10psi have to do with how much power he is making. Have you seen what. Holset will move in terms of cfm at 10psi?
Do research before turning into a troll yourself.
Psi has everything to do with the turbo and specs. Hench why i previously asked what turbo, specs, and psi to make 320whp on a bone stock A6. So tell me this, a ".69ar spools around 4800-5200" , WTF does that mean? how much psi does it spool around 4800-5200? psi still irrelivant?!? cuz i dont know what you mean when you say a .69ar spools around 4800-5200... i can act smart too and say something stupid like, "well a t25 spools around 1000-5000 on an A6"....
And to the original troll 13FIT , go teach your self something instead of reading forums. My name is y8pwrdef on d-series.org. probably been on that forum when you where still sucking on your mommas tit. Was building Vitara D blocks with my brother before SpeedFactory when crazy with theirs.
#44
06-07-2014, 08:05 PM
An hx35 12cm housing is set at .69ar. Spools around 4800-5200 on a d16a6. Makes a great freeway pulls turbo.
The d16a6 13fit is referring to had an iron main cap setup with an aluminum girdle. (I still have one in my rt4wd wagon)
There are only a handful of l15 engines worldwide making over 250hp, however they are have very impressive torque numbers and wide power bands.
Also, what does 10psi have to do with how much power he is making. Have you seen what. Holset will move in terms of cfm at 10psi?
Do research before turning into a troll yourself.
The d16a6 13fit is referring to had an iron main cap setup with an aluminum girdle. (I still have one in my rt4wd wagon)
There are only a handful of l15 engines worldwide making over 250hp, however they are have very impressive torque numbers and wide power bands.
Also, what does 10psi have to do with how much power he is making. Have you seen what. Holset will move in terms of cfm at 10psi?
Do research before turning into a troll yourself.
So I was misinformed in earlier years that there was a rare iron block d16a6. Iron mains? Wouldn't that cause some thermal type of problems, like bottom bearings expanding at different temps and rates?
You say 4800-5200 rpms for it to start spooling. My d16a6 was sitting on 250k miles before fresh rings were put in, and it usually started pulling super hard around 5500 rpms. Maybe mine was a bit tired. It wasnt out of a wagovan, but a crx si, so I can probably assume it was hitting its redline long before I started with it lol
#45
06-07-2014, 08:10 PM
Of course you would over-react.
I meant they are designed to be similar. Outside of the number of cams and the obvious difference of bigger bore and smaller stroke, yes, they are the same.
Did you know that Honda made the Ds and Bs to be factory interchangable? throw a B series in a civic with the factory B series header, bolts up to the civic catback. Mounts swap out 100%, no welding or hammer-time
Even an F or H series motor can be put into a civic with factory parts. Most parts are sourced from 92-96 prelude and 90-93 accord for that thing.
I guess you have no idea of the true frankenstein ability honda did. Honda used these frankenstien styles in their racing classes in Japan and did very well.
Who do you think gave the public the original idea of a K series swap? Honda did while racing. same with J series swaps.
Of course the K and J swaps need some fabrication, but you can even re-use factory axles if you swap out shafts and outer joints.
#46
06-09-2014, 10:59 PM
Sorry i didnt mean to ruin your thread. BUt reason for the FLAMING, goes beyond just this thread. People like 13Fit might fool 90% of people on this forum about how much he knows because he read somewhere or heard somewhere, but he cant fool the other 10% of people like me, that is actually speaking from expirence. You cant bullshit somebody whos done it, does it.
The point speaking, is that people like him are what make forums and communitys like these go no where/ get no where. Its pretty much a Joke and if people dont like a bullshitter being called out than the whole community can stay in the fairy tale that they are in.
To address 13fits claims, of The "L" series motors being stronger than the "D" series, is a fukking joke. I have yet to read any L15a7 make anywhere close to 300whp. highly doubt it and if someone has, i'd like to see it, and what they have done to the head to acheive this. I dont know who has made the most power on the First gen L15 but i can bet No one, if not 1 or 2 people, has made even 300whp. So im curious where and what are the facts that proves this econobox engine is a greater, better, stronger, more durable engine than any "D" series.
And than the famous quote of the century,
"Headstuds/bolt upgrades are mostly for higher rpms and big power. They are by no means a necessity if this turbo build stays under 300whp. "
This guy is plainly just STUPID and WRONG. Where the hell did he read or hear that factory headstuds are good for up to 300whp!?! Didnt he say the 'L' is better than "D"s? Yet his 'D' made 320 bone stock? So than why would the 'L' need studs at 300whp? LMFAO.
Force Induction Multiplies the Compression Ratio, so it is a good idea to add stronger head bolts/studs anytime going to force induction. Factory head studs are not designed for more pressure than factory, especially since they are Torque to Yield studs!
I can rant on more about how much of a joke this guy is but its a waste of time and im sure people that are open minded will already see that.
But yea back to O/P Kudos to you for actually going out there and doing it, im sure i can give you some pointers if you need it, but like everyone else that has gotten their hands dirty, you will only learn from your own mistakes and breaks.
The point speaking, is that people like him are what make forums and communitys like these go no where/ get no where. Its pretty much a Joke and if people dont like a bullshitter being called out than the whole community can stay in the fairy tale that they are in.
To address 13fits claims, of The "L" series motors being stronger than the "D" series, is a fukking joke. I have yet to read any L15a7 make anywhere close to 300whp. highly doubt it and if someone has, i'd like to see it, and what they have done to the head to acheive this. I dont know who has made the most power on the First gen L15 but i can bet No one, if not 1 or 2 people, has made even 300whp. So im curious where and what are the facts that proves this econobox engine is a greater, better, stronger, more durable engine than any "D" series.
And than the famous quote of the century,
"Headstuds/bolt upgrades are mostly for higher rpms and big power. They are by no means a necessity if this turbo build stays under 300whp. "
This guy is plainly just STUPID and WRONG. Where the hell did he read or hear that factory headstuds are good for up to 300whp!?! Didnt he say the 'L' is better than "D"s? Yet his 'D' made 320 bone stock? So than why would the 'L' need studs at 300whp? LMFAO.
Force Induction Multiplies the Compression Ratio, so it is a good idea to add stronger head bolts/studs anytime going to force induction. Factory head studs are not designed for more pressure than factory, especially since they are Torque to Yield studs!
I can rant on more about how much of a joke this guy is but its a waste of time and im sure people that are open minded will already see that.
But yea back to O/P Kudos to you for actually going out there and doing it, im sure i can give you some pointers if you need it, but like everyone else that has gotten their hands dirty, you will only learn from your own mistakes and breaks.
See, I disagree with your entire logic of why you feel the need to tell everyone how you are superior to 90% of them, while Flaming another member unprovoked.
All the while acting as if, not only do I need your "pointers" but assuming I would want them as well.
Sounds like either a serious superiority complex
or you just don't understand that most people can figure the truth out for themselves
.
#47
06-10-2014, 12:09 AM
No shit sherlock troll. I know an HX35 is a great turbo for Freeway. So my point is if he was making 320whp how is his friends z6 with a t25 almost as fast!? and on the freeway? And "iron block" is totally different from "iron main cap". i read word for word captain obvious.
Psi has everything to do with the turbo and specs. Hench why i previously asked what turbo, specs, and psi to make 320whp on a bone stock A6. So tell me this, a ".69ar spools around 4800-5200" , WTF does that mean? how much psi does it spool around 4800-5200? psi still irrelivant?!? cuz i dont know what you mean when you say a .69ar spools around 4800-5200... i can act smart too and say something stupid like, "well a t25 spools around 1000-5000 on an A6"....
And to the original troll 13FIT , go teach your self something instead of reading forums. My name is y8pwrdef on d-series.org. probably been on that forum when you where still sucking on your mommas tit. Was building Vitara D blocks with my brother before SpeedFactory when crazy with theirs.
Psi has everything to do with the turbo and specs. Hench why i previously asked what turbo, specs, and psi to make 320whp on a bone stock A6. So tell me this, a ".69ar spools around 4800-5200" , WTF does that mean? how much psi does it spool around 4800-5200? psi still irrelivant?!? cuz i dont know what you mean when you say a .69ar spools around 4800-5200... i can act smart too and say something stupid like, "well a t25 spools around 1000-5000 on an A6"....
And to the original troll 13FIT , go teach your self something instead of reading forums. My name is y8pwrdef on d-series.org. probably been on that forum when you where still sucking on your mommas tit. Was building Vitara D blocks with my brother before SpeedFactory when crazy with theirs.
You are all misinformed.
Saying that a turbo is great for freeway is a horrible statement. Ive seen countless DSM/EVOs running all variants of Holset turbos that do 9s in the quarter mile.
Now will is spool decent on a 1.6l d series motor, its hard to say. I could pull up some random youtube videos but going off my 4g63 experience a 59lb a min (600HP) hx35 will produce about 30psi by 5000rpm on a 2.0l 9:1 compression motor. I would venture to say that on a 1.6l vtec d series it would produce 30psi much later than that maybe 5500rpm.
There are all kinds of holsets a hx40 from the 90s might only flow as well as a current day hx35, it all depends on what you buy.
My buddies 1g talon made 505vd (dynojet) at 29psi on a old hx40, ran 11.3 at 130mph (1.9 sixty) he sucks at driving LOL
I ran a pte 5858 billet wheel non ball bearing on my non vtec sleeved 2.0 b series CRX Si and I produced 16psi by 3800rpm, it was a great street turbo I made 381whp/301 torque. Had I boosted to 25psi like I planned I should have made in excess of 500whp.
Currently I am on a Ball bearing twinscroll pte 6466 and I expect about 30psi before 5500rpm (274/274cams)
Also remember the boost threshold (spool up) might be similar between turbos but the lag (loss of spool BETWEEN gears) varies greatly, the BB turbos shine in that department.
#48
06-13-2014, 03:38 PM
See, I disagree with your entire logic of why you feel the need to tell everyone how you are superior to 90% of them, while Flaming another member unprovoked.
All the while acting as if, not only do I need your "pointers" but assuming I would want them as well.
Sounds like either a serious superiority complex
or you just don't understand that most people can figure the truth out for themselves.As for my "pointers" they were suggestions. Take it or leave it.
Didnt realize i was gonna hurt your feelings, my bad bro!
Boost on!
You are all misinformed.
Saying that a turbo is great for freeway is a horrible statement. Ive seen countless DSM/EVOs running all variants of Holset turbos that do 9s in the quarter mile.
Now will is spool decent on a 1.6l d series motor, its hard to say. I could pull up some random youtube videos but going off my 4g63 experience a 59lb a min (600HP) hx35 will produce about 30psi by 5000rpm on a 2.0l 9:1 compression motor. I would venture to say that on a 1.6l vtec d series it would produce 30psi much later than that maybe 5500rpm.
There are all kinds of holsets a hx40 from the 90s might only flow as well as a current day hx35, it all depends on what you buy.
My buddies 1g talon made 505vd (dynojet) at 29psi on a old hx40, ran 11.3 at 130mph (1.9 sixty) he sucks at driving LOL
I ran a pte 5858 billet wheel non ball bearing on my non vtec sleeved 2.0 b series CRX Si and I produced 16psi by 3800rpm, it was a great street turbo I made 381whp/301 torque. Had I boosted to 25psi like I planned I should have made in excess of 500whp.
Currently I am on a Ball bearing twinscroll pte 6466 and I expect about 30psi before 5500rpm (274/274cams)
Also remember the boost threshold (spool up) might be similar between turbos but the lag (loss of spool BETWEEN gears) varies greatly, the BB turbos shine in that department.
Saying that a turbo is great for freeway is a horrible statement. Ive seen countless DSM/EVOs running all variants of Holset turbos that do 9s in the quarter mile.
Now will is spool decent on a 1.6l d series motor, its hard to say. I could pull up some random youtube videos but going off my 4g63 experience a 59lb a min (600HP) hx35 will produce about 30psi by 5000rpm on a 2.0l 9:1 compression motor. I would venture to say that on a 1.6l vtec d series it would produce 30psi much later than that maybe 5500rpm.
There are all kinds of holsets a hx40 from the 90s might only flow as well as a current day hx35, it all depends on what you buy.
My buddies 1g talon made 505vd (dynojet) at 29psi on a old hx40, ran 11.3 at 130mph (1.9 sixty) he sucks at driving LOL
I ran a pte 5858 billet wheel non ball bearing on my non vtec sleeved 2.0 b series CRX Si and I produced 16psi by 3800rpm, it was a great street turbo I made 381whp/301 torque. Had I boosted to 25psi like I planned I should have made in excess of 500whp.
Currently I am on a Ball bearing twinscroll pte 6466 and I expect about 30psi before 5500rpm (274/274cams)
Also remember the boost threshold (spool up) might be similar between turbos but the lag (loss of spool BETWEEN gears) varies greatly, the BB turbos shine in that department.
One that knows turbos cant deny an HX35 (compareable to a gt35) IS efficiant at high rpms/highway speeds, on any given 4cylinder engine. (turbo was designed for big bore diesel engine, DUHH)
WAS reason why my previously argument of a bone stock A6 running a hx35 with 12cm turbine housing isnt efficiant at all and would highly unlikely make 320whp. (b.s. talk)
A ton of SOHC vtec guys run t3t4 turbos with 50trim to 57trim (.62ar) and have lag up to 5k before full boost of around 15psi. If a 12cm hx35 is about .69AR, even a bone stock sohc vtec is gonna have problems spooling that turbo. Its easy to understand what im saying if you know turbos which it does sound like you do MITSUBEASTLEE, but apparently not a lot of people in this forum do, so when they talk crap out of their ass' i'm gonna have something to say about it cuz it aint true.
Kinda like that one Kyler dude saying the turbo "spools around 4800 to whatever rpms"....makes no sense...HOW MUCH PSI? 5? 10? 15? around 4800 to 7k?
Too many uninformative sensative people...
#49
06-13-2014, 03:43 PM
#51
07-02-2014, 01:37 PM
Thanks for stopping in jp.
Right now I have most of what I need, still need oil, water and intake plumbing.
But I've been focusing on some brake upgrades after a day at the track.
I'm still running original brake pads and shoes. I was impressed with the performance of the stock setup, but defiantly needs some upgrades.
I purchased the rear FIT RS calipers and rotors from member here alpina and am working on the brackets for them currently (almost done). Will then work out the ebrake setup and plumbing. I am also going to upgrade front pads.
I'm hoping to get this all done before my next track event in late September, work has been stupid busy though so free time is in short supply.
For this Turbo setup though I plan on doing during the winter, but have to aquife a beater to drive (plow truck) to make that happen.
I will however be looking to get fic6 installed with the larger injectors relatively soon, after rear brakes are done.
Right now I have most of what I need, still need oil, water and intake plumbing.
But I've been focusing on some brake upgrades after a day at the track.
I'm still running original brake pads and shoes. I was impressed with the performance of the stock setup, but defiantly needs some upgrades.
I purchased the rear FIT RS calipers and rotors from member here alpina and am working on the brackets for them currently (almost done). Will then work out the ebrake setup and plumbing. I am also going to upgrade front pads.
I'm hoping to get this all done before my next track event in late September, work has been stupid busy though so free time is in short supply.
For this Turbo setup though I plan on doing during the winter, but have to aquife a beater to drive (plow truck) to make that happen.
I will however be looking to get fic6 installed with the larger injectors relatively soon, after rear brakes are done.
#53
07-21-2014, 11:54 AM
Hoping to get the FIC and wideband installed in couple months with larger injectors.
Still looking for suitable plow truck to use in winter while I do this instal too.
#54
08-14-2014, 08:58 PM
Hi All,
Some big news here!
A bit sad, a bit glad. I picked up a sprintex SC from a fellow fitfreaker so the turbo must go!
I think Ill keep the FIC6 and the injectors, The Turbo and the manifolds are for sale if anyone is interested.
Some big news here!
A bit sad, a bit glad. I picked up a sprintex SC from a fellow fitfreaker so the turbo must go!
I think Ill keep the FIC6 and the injectors, The Turbo and the manifolds are for sale if anyone is interested.
#55
08-14-2014, 09:16 PM
Dang I was looking forward to seeing this turbo setup. Still interested in the SC build as well. Good luck with it.
#56
08-15-2014, 10:36 AM
To be honest I still have dreams of a turbo with the SC!
But it would not be this turbo, I would want a bigger and name brand unit.
As well as some prior supporting mods like qualife LSD, upgraded head fasteners, pistons and rods. This of course is still just a dream as of now, raises and promotion are on the horizon or a job change.
So hoping it's not too far fetched. I'd rather have a cheap car I built to my tastes any-day over a production line vehicle regardless of brand or it's symbol of status. Sure I get snickers in the parking garage at the office from the tools in beemers and Audis but Talking to most of them they don't even know the features/specs of their own cars let alone take a wrench to one. I'd also like to see if they can corner those pigs at the speed my wee Honda can and still get 35mpg (at least till the SC). At least the guys in the merc's aren't trying to pretend they are car guys!
Full disclosure; I'm a former Heavily modified Audi a4 turbo owner and still love the cars and the features just not the weight and price tags.
Wow sorry rant over,
BTW My koni oranges came in yesterday! Well the fronts, rears are on the way still. Should have the struts and SC in before my nExt track day end of September, 2 day event Can't wait! Will need some new rubber by then for sure
So anybody want a turbo with a port matched manifold!
#57
08-15-2014, 12:21 PM
Are you planning to put in the SMT8L with the SC or just skip to the FIC6 and injectors?
Definitely would like to hear your impressions of the Koni's too. What springs are you going to use?
Definitely would like to hear your impressions of the Koni's too. What springs are you going to use?
#58
08-15-2014, 04:35 PM
I'm running progress springs and very happy with them, shocks are defiantly degrading faster now though and starting to get annoying.
#59
08-15-2014, 05:14 PM
Having ran a Sprintex system for about 10 months now. I believe there is an issue that is inducing an occasional limp mode. I think all of the owners on here have experienced it at different frequencies. I personal have had it happen only about 6 or 7 times (not enough to consider a different piggyback). I believe this is either a glitch in the smt8L and or the car is being overly sensitive to the way it determines a misfire. Overall it is a relatively easy way to wake up the fit.
Also you might check with Gary at Sprintex USA and see if they made any progress with their plug-n-play ecu harness before you dig into yours. That is the least fun part of the install.
Also you might check with Gary at Sprintex USA and see if they made any progress with their plug-n-play ecu harness before you dig into yours. That is the least fun part of the install.
#60
08-15-2014, 07:50 PM
Having ran a Sprintex system for about 10 months now. I believe there is an issue that is inducing an occasional limp mode. I think all of the owners on here have experienced it at different frequencies. I personal have had it happen only about 6 or 7 times (not enough to consider a different piggyback). I believe this is either a glitch in the smt8L and or the car is being overly sensitive to the way it determines a misfire. Overall it is a relatively easy way to wake up the fit.
Also you might check with Gary at Sprintex USA and see if they made any progress with their plug-n-play ecu harness before you dig into yours. That is the least fun part of the install.
Also you might check with Gary at Sprintex USA and see if they made any progress with their plug-n-play ecu harness before you dig into yours. That is the least fun part of the install.