HID Help!
#1
HID Help!
Hi, I just brought my new 07 Fit Sport and I was trying to install the Klight plug & play HID kit in today. But when I install one side and try to see if it work, it won't turn on. I thought it was due to the reverse polarity so I switch the wire, still nothing happen. Then I tried to swap out to the other ballast thinking it is the ballast....still nothing happen.
Finally I call the guy who sold it to me and he told me to swtich some wire on the connector. so I did and when I turn on the low beam, it still won't work, but when I turn on the high beam, it will flash for a second and turn off. What could be the problem here?
Is it because of the kit or does it require some modification in order to install the HID kit?
Thanks for the help in advance.
Finally I call the guy who sold it to me and he told me to swtich some wire on the connector. so I did and when I turn on the low beam, it still won't work, but when I turn on the high beam, it will flash for a second and turn off. What could be the problem here?
Is it because of the kit or does it require some modification in order to install the HID kit?
Thanks for the help in advance.
#4
Is the 9003 connector....so there are 3 prong on it.
#7
No, honda fit are 9003, also called the H4 but that's the older name. 9003 are now DOT approved, H4's aren't anymore. Exact same bulb base.
As for the creator, send me a pic i'm pretty good with HID kit's as i have installed many in many cars. I need a pic of what the kit says to plug into the stock wiring harness. The honda fit has one positive and 2 negative prongs so u probably just have soemthing reversed. Is it a bi-xenon kit or single?
As for the creator, send me a pic i'm pretty good with HID kit's as i have installed many in many cars. I need a pic of what the kit says to plug into the stock wiring harness. The honda fit has one positive and 2 negative prongs so u probably just have soemthing reversed. Is it a bi-xenon kit or single?
#8
No, honda fit are 9003, also called the H4 but that's the older name. 9003 are now DOT approved, H4's aren't anymore. Exact same bulb base.
As for the creator, send me a pic i'm pretty good with HID kit's as i have installed many in many cars. I need a pic of what the kit says to plug into the stock wiring harness. The honda fit has one positive and 2 negative prongs so u probably just have soemthing reversed. Is it a bi-xenon kit or single?
As for the creator, send me a pic i'm pretty good with HID kit's as i have installed many in many cars. I need a pic of what the kit says to plug into the stock wiring harness. The honda fit has one positive and 2 negative prongs so u probably just have soemthing reversed. Is it a bi-xenon kit or single?
It suppose to be direct plug and play, but it won't turn on after I plug it in. I tried to direct feed the power to the wire and it work perfectly. Its just that if I connect it to the oem connector, it won't come on at all.
Any suggestion guys?
Thanks
#9
are both sides like that? That will only work on pre 99 Honda models. The ones you need for newer H4s are must have the power source coming from the battery and only plugged into 1 light plug.
#11
Yes, both side are like that. So there is a newer version of the H4? so what you saying is all the plug and play HID won't work for the Fit at all since all the plug and play kit take the power from the OEM socket?
#14
It kinda defeat the purpose of buying a plug & play kit.
#16
Although it is not going to be a plug and play, getting power from the battery is MUCH better than getting it from the stock harness. Reason being is that its true, hids run at like 35w, but the initial power is alot more than a normal bulb!
I installed HID foglamps on my mom's BMW and everytime i switch them on, i see all the little bulbs on the dash (warning lights etc) flash for one second as the ballast powers up... its an enormous amount of power and i actually had to up the amps on the fuse for the fogs to work... this is pretty dangerous.
I was just desperate for the lights to work. Also my mom's car has a broken light indicater in the dash so doing the method i said earlier would result in warning lights on the dash... kinda annoying.
I installed HID foglamps on my mom's BMW and everytime i switch them on, i see all the little bulbs on the dash (warning lights etc) flash for one second as the ballast powers up... its an enormous amount of power and i actually had to up the amps on the fuse for the fogs to work... this is pretty dangerous.
I was just desperate for the lights to work. Also my mom's car has a broken light indicater in the dash so doing the method i said earlier would result in warning lights on the dash... kinda annoying.
#17
basically the way H4 is setup changes from 99-00. Pre 99 have 1 ground post 00 have 2. anyways this is what you need.
eBay Motors: HID fuse relay wiring harness 9005 9007 H3 H4 H13 H10 (item 120152452167 end time Aug-23-07 21:51:58 PDT)
eBay Motors: HID fuse relay wiring harness 9005 9007 H3 H4 H13 H10 (item 120152452167 end time Aug-23-07 21:51:58 PDT)
#18
y0 yugisama. Now u said that if you do a direct feed from the battery to the oem plug harness works right? that means u took a set of wires and hooked it up to the red and black wires of the oem plug then took those wires directly to the battery right and it worked? Well it seems as if the wires on the OEM plug harness are in the wrong places. Take a multimeter and find out what each wire does on the stock harness. ONce u find out what everything is, you can "unpin" the harness and put them in the correct locations. If i remmber correctly, the OEM harness has one positive and two grounds, one for low and one for high. Try this then get back2 me i'll see what else i can do.
As for the "power to the battery," the stock headlight harness puts out a solid 12 volts so i don't understand why HID companies are saying you must take power straight from the battery. My hid's don't go to the battery and only pull power from the oem harness (just like yugisamas) and all the kits i buy, i make sure there is no extra wiring going to the battery cuz that just makes sloppy wiring go all over the place and doesn't look cool. They have built in relay's inside the ballast itself so there is no need for an external relay.
Accordguy i know why ur mom's bimmer does this. It's cuz bimmers have a "bulb malfunction indicator" that tells you when a bulb is out. Since it's all electronically controlled, if the bulb isn't putting out what the car is sending, it thinks it's out. There are ways to fix this like hooking up a loop resistor in the circuitry at the harness. It gets rid of that flashing. But HID'S don't pull more power then a regular bulb, they pull out average 35wattts compared to OEM bulbs rated at 55watts/65watts. It also isn't an enormous amount of power because HID'S arent' like a regulare bulb and don't burn a filament, its the gasses beign charged in the xenon by electodes sent by the ballast.
I've done a lotta things w/ hid kits, ive even taken apart a kit just to see what's on the inside. The kit i opened up had a built in relay and it does the exact same thing like the other kits that come with an external relay that has to drain power straight from the battery.
Hope that clarify's a little bit.
As for the "power to the battery," the stock headlight harness puts out a solid 12 volts so i don't understand why HID companies are saying you must take power straight from the battery. My hid's don't go to the battery and only pull power from the oem harness (just like yugisamas) and all the kits i buy, i make sure there is no extra wiring going to the battery cuz that just makes sloppy wiring go all over the place and doesn't look cool. They have built in relay's inside the ballast itself so there is no need for an external relay.
Accordguy i know why ur mom's bimmer does this. It's cuz bimmers have a "bulb malfunction indicator" that tells you when a bulb is out. Since it's all electronically controlled, if the bulb isn't putting out what the car is sending, it thinks it's out. There are ways to fix this like hooking up a loop resistor in the circuitry at the harness. It gets rid of that flashing. But HID'S don't pull more power then a regular bulb, they pull out average 35wattts compared to OEM bulbs rated at 55watts/65watts. It also isn't an enormous amount of power because HID'S arent' like a regulare bulb and don't burn a filament, its the gasses beign charged in the xenon by electodes sent by the ballast.
I've done a lotta things w/ hid kits, ive even taken apart a kit just to see what's on the inside. The kit i opened up had a built in relay and it does the exact same thing like the other kits that come with an external relay that has to drain power straight from the battery.
Hope that clarify's a little bit.
#19
y0 yugisama. Now u said that if you do a direct feed from the battery to the oem plug harness works right? that means u took a set of wires and hooked it up to the red and black wires of the oem plug then took those wires directly to the battery right and it worked? Well it seems as if the wires on the OEM plug harness are in the wrong places. Take a multimeter and find out what each wire does on the stock harness. ONce u find out what everything is, you can "unpin" the harness and put them in the correct locations. If i remmber correctly, the OEM harness has one positive and two grounds, one for low and one for high. Try this then get back2 me i'll see what else i can do.
#20
Great thanks Koolkevin1107 and all the other's input. So now I need two ground wire for the plug is that correct? In the picture of my connector, it has the red (positive), the black (low beam ground, I guess), and the blue (High beam ground, its not connect to anything). So I have to tap the blue wire to the black wire so that both High and Low beam have the ground. Does that sound correct?
These are the wires coming out of the stock harness. they each do the following:
RED W/ WHITE STRIPE = 12+ VOLT
RED W/ YELLOW STRIPE = LOW BEAM GROUND
RED W/ BLUE STRIPE = HIGH BEAM GROUND
Okay now since ur HID'S is bi-xenon, im going to give u directions on how wired mine for bi-xenon. Bi-xenon has a little motor that pulls the HID back when the high beam is triggered. This means that the motor has a positive and negative wires for the motor only. So now u have 4 wires u got to work with:
One black (-) and One red (+) for the HID bulb itself. These wires are usually thick.
One black and One blue for the bi-xenon motor. These wires are probably thinner.
Now from the pictures you provided me, it looks like the pins are in the wrong place. Do u see that thick red and black wire coming out? those are to power the xenon bulb itself. Now that blue and thin black wire (attached to the other thick black wire) are the positive and negative for the bi-xenon motor. Take the pin out on all 3 wires (there is a little tab at the top of the black plug that u have to push in then u can slide the connector out) insert them back into the corresponding location of the wiring harness. do NOT plug in the blue wire yet. Once u get the positive and negative in the right slots, plug the HID harness into the stock harness n fire it up. See if it works. If it does (which it should) pat urself on the back. Now disconnect it and plug in that blue wire into the last existing slot and try it again. The hid's should still be on. Try the high beam, it it works, congrats, if it doesn't, that means u have to cut and re-pin some wires.
From the pix u are showing me, it looks like u will have to cut and re-pin some wires. If that is the case, just tell me i'll give u step by step instructions. I'm here to help.