quick question on HIDS!
#1
quick question on HIDS!
okay so im trying to do a search but im not having any luck, i just have one quick question. im buying my HID kits from
HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning
and im wondering if ge8s need the hid harness or the error code eliminator
thanks
HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning
and im wondering if ge8s need the hid harness or the error code eliminator
thanks
#2
You definitely don't need the error code eliminator, the Fit doesn't have such system to begin with.
The wiring harness... I'm not really sure, but after using a HID kit in the Pathfinder, I would use the harness.
The wiring harness... I'm not really sure, but after using a HID kit in the Pathfinder, I would use the harness.
#6
BUT - I still think it's best to retrofit true projectors into the housings for the best, legal-ish, safest HID.
Next best thing is Bi-Xenon kits - don't waste money on anything less. Just my .02
#9
No, you don't have to retrofit your headlights. It is PnP kit. Just make sure that you get hi/lo controller/harness.
#11
Keep in mind that retrofit the headlights will cost you around $1,000. Additional, you will not have headlights on your car for a week (I guess but depend on the installer. It might take longer if you have ro ship). If you can live with it, it is the way to go. However, it is still illegal since you modify the headlights. Just my IHMO.
#14
I'm not against PnP kits, in fact, I was using it for a while on the Pathfinder.
But the thing is, unlike some drivers out there, I MAKE it a point to get the right bulb, have a shield if needed and re-adjust the aim.
I went through 3 PnP kits (I burn out bulbs way too fast). My first two kits provided a very sharp cut off. They were positioned so that the light pattern was the same as with halogens.
Unfortunately, my 3rd kit wasn't so sharp. The problem laid with the shield. It didn't completely block the light when it was in low beam position, so there was light bouncing off the bottom of the reflector (the bottom is used in high beam). I pushed the aim down to minimize the effect it had on oncoming cars. Even with the aim down, it still lit up the place better than halogens (for me anyway).
I also HATE, HATE, HATE, HATE those HID low, halogen high combos... the way it is set up, NEITHER bulb seem to project a pattern similar to halogen (or HIDs)... every single output pic I've seen, no sharp cutoff (means too much light into oncoming driver's eyes). In fact, I think these are the ones that some folks use as a reason not to use PnP.
So please, re-adjust the aim so the cutoff gradually goes down. And if it doesn't produce a clean cut off, push the aim down until there's little to no light hitting oncoming cars. Modify the shield if needed... or just get a kit from somewhere else.
They vary from seller to seller, brand to brand.
But the thing is, unlike some drivers out there, I MAKE it a point to get the right bulb, have a shield if needed and re-adjust the aim.
I went through 3 PnP kits (I burn out bulbs way too fast). My first two kits provided a very sharp cut off. They were positioned so that the light pattern was the same as with halogens.
Unfortunately, my 3rd kit wasn't so sharp. The problem laid with the shield. It didn't completely block the light when it was in low beam position, so there was light bouncing off the bottom of the reflector (the bottom is used in high beam). I pushed the aim down to minimize the effect it had on oncoming cars. Even with the aim down, it still lit up the place better than halogens (for me anyway).
I also HATE, HATE, HATE, HATE those HID low, halogen high combos... the way it is set up, NEITHER bulb seem to project a pattern similar to halogen (or HIDs)... every single output pic I've seen, no sharp cutoff (means too much light into oncoming driver's eyes). In fact, I think these are the ones that some folks use as a reason not to use PnP.
So please, re-adjust the aim so the cutoff gradually goes down. And if it doesn't produce a clean cut off, push the aim down until there's little to no light hitting oncoming cars. Modify the shield if needed... or just get a kit from somewhere else.
They vary from seller to seller, brand to brand.
#15
I have not had any issues with PnP HID headlights kits yet. I have been using them for the last 6 years in my car/truck. I did replace my HID fog light bulbs twice due to water.
There are a couple Bi-Xenon kits that come with sheild. Additional, you can adjust beam pattern as well. Some PnP Bi-Xenon kit uses sliding mechanism to change between hi and lo while other uses tilt the bulbs. You have to shop around which one you like.
There are a couple Bi-Xenon kits that come with sheild. Additional, you can adjust beam pattern as well. Some PnP Bi-Xenon kit uses sliding mechanism to change between hi and lo while other uses tilt the bulbs. You have to shop around which one you like.
#17
It depends upon what HID kit you get.
My HID kit is Bi-Xenon 9003/HB2 kit. It came with Hi/Lo controller/harness. It gets power directly from the battery. The controller/harness connects to driver's side harness. This configuration causes DRL on the dash to turn on since there is nothing connect to passenger headlight harness. So the car computer will diagnose as fault circuit. It is the same result if one of headlight bulbs burns out.
My resolution is to connect LED as to the passenger's side headlight harness. So the LED will light up as DRL. The same time, headlights will always stay on as DRL since the high beam on the driver side trigger the HID controller. However, the headlight DRL will always be low beam.
My HID kit is Bi-Xenon 9003/HB2 kit. It came with Hi/Lo controller/harness. It gets power directly from the battery. The controller/harness connects to driver's side harness. This configuration causes DRL on the dash to turn on since there is nothing connect to passenger headlight harness. So the car computer will diagnose as fault circuit. It is the same result if one of headlight bulbs burns out.
My resolution is to connect LED as to the passenger's side headlight harness. So the LED will light up as DRL. The same time, headlights will always stay on as DRL since the high beam on the driver side trigger the HID controller. However, the headlight DRL will always be low beam.
#18
It depends upon what HID kit you get.
My HID kit is Bi-Xenon 9003/HB2 kit. It came with Hi/Lo controller/harness. It gets power directly from the battery. The controller/harness connects to driver's side harness. This configuration causes DRL on the dash to turn on since there is nothing connect to passenger headlight harness. So the car computer will diagnose as fault circuit. It is the same result if one of headlight bulbs burns out.
My resolution is to connect LED as to the passenger's side headlight harness. So the LED will light up as DRL. The same time, headlights will always stay on as DRL since the high beam on the driver side trigger the HID controller. However, the headlight DRL will always be low beam.
My HID kit is Bi-Xenon 9003/HB2 kit. It came with Hi/Lo controller/harness. It gets power directly from the battery. The controller/harness connects to driver's side harness. This configuration causes DRL on the dash to turn on since there is nothing connect to passenger headlight harness. So the car computer will diagnose as fault circuit. It is the same result if one of headlight bulbs burns out.
My resolution is to connect LED as to the passenger's side headlight harness. So the LED will light up as DRL. The same time, headlights will always stay on as DRL since the high beam on the driver side trigger the HID controller. However, the headlight DRL will always be low beam.
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