b17gsr, Did you have a block of foam between the headliner and the roof? I was inspecting mine before I get ready to make the cuts and notice a block of dense foam where the light will go. Should make a difference just curious if you had the same thing.

 

my dad saw this post and did the install in my fit

he noticed the block of foam, and basically positioned the map light so that he can take out the block of foam.. he then split the block of foam in half, use it to prop up front and back of the hole so that when you push on the homelink buttons, it's still supported

on my odysessy, when the doors open, the map lights turn on.. is that what the middle pin is for?

-joe

 

ones constant 12v, ones ground and the other will be negative switched from the door circuit to trigger the lights when you open the door. just tie it into the existing dome light.

 

I kind of figure that was the case. I was thinking about hollowing it out so the light would fit in it but it would be quicker to cut it in half. Did he say whether it was glued in place or not?

Steve.

 

it was glue to the head liner..

the block was only about 1.5" x 1.5" x 8" so you wont' be able to "hollow" it out :-)

thanks for the tip about the door light

-joe

 

When I plugged my CL unit in my Odyssey to test it, it didn't turn the lights on with the doors. Maybe the CL uses a positive trigger instead of negative?

As for the foam, I used the parts supplied with the overhead console.

 

you actually bought a new console? they are expensive.. unless you didn't get homelink with yours?

-joe

 

I tested my light this evening with a battery to make sure everything worked. The switched lights come on with the two outside pins powered. When you take the center pin to ground it lights the lights as long as they aren't already turned on. So, this would mean they are negative switched from the door circuit. Haven't pulled the dome light yet to see how it is wired.

My light came only with the light, no bracket was included. Time to fabricate one.

 

damn man

i should have asked before i closed everything up.. now i have to drag another wire to the console :-)

-joe

 

The JDM roof console.

Damn, I'll have to retest that negative trigger...

 

this is somewhat on topic, for those that have installed the homelink from a CL; do you have an opener with rolling codes, and does it work.

Thanks!

 

thats awesome, good job! i'm going to have to keep this in mind.

 

yes it works

you need to get rolling code instructions for the programming

-joe

 

My CL map lights refuse to work with that middle negative trigger. GRRR...

 

I was able to get my Homelink to work with my garage door opener on the middle button. Couldn't get it to work on the first button by following the Homelink programming instructions. Once I get it installed I'll play with it some more. I have a wireless X-10 starter setup from Rat Shack that I bought about 7 years ago to play around with. Maybe I'll finally get to use it for something.

 

Does your Homelink work? If so, then you have the polarity correct on your current setup. I noticed when I was playing around with mine testing it out that the light would light no matter which way the battery was hooked up but the Homelink needed it to be one way. Just a thought.

 

Homelink works fine. Odds are something internal is screwy. No biggy, I don't need that much lighting when I get into my Fit.

 

did you reset your homelink and then reprogram the buttons?

-joe

 

How do you reset it? I didn't see that on the Homelink website.

 

with most setups all you do is train the homelink as usual (click the clicker while doing the weirdy dance on your head singing honda is great, etc etc), then you go to your garage door opener and have it accept your homelink as a trigger. break out your manual and look up how to add new remotes.

this, effectively, sets your opener to respond to one static code. homelink devices don't have the ability to mimic a rolling code so this is the workaround. with non-rolling-code setups you wouldn't have to program your opener, it would just respond thinking your homelink IS your old remote.