Fit Interior & Exterior Illumination Threads discussing interior and exterior lighting modifications for the Fit/Jazz

Acura CL Maplights w/Homelink install

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  #21  
Old 11-27-2006, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by b17gsr
IIRC, mine was from a 99 CL, and I was too lazy to source the bracket. If you plan on installing the JDM roof console, you need to mount the map lights closer to the rear view mirror.

It's not hard, the first cut is the scariest.

Now that winter is fast approaching, I'm using the map lights a few times per week, and the Homelink even more!
b17gsr, Did you have a block of foam between the headliner and the roof? I was inspecting mine before I get ready to make the cuts and notice a block of dense foam where the light will go. Should make a difference just curious if you had the same thing.
 
  #22  
Old 11-28-2006, 07:00 AM
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my dad saw this post and did the install in my fit

he noticed the block of foam, and basically positioned the map light so that he can take out the block of foam.. he then split the block of foam in half, use it to prop up front and back of the hole so that when you push on the homelink buttons, it's still supported

on my odysessy, when the doors open, the map lights turn on.. is that what the middle pin is for?

-joe
 
  #23  
Old 11-28-2006, 07:14 AM
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ones constant 12v, ones ground and the other will be negative switched from the door circuit to trigger the lights when you open the door. just tie it into the existing dome light.
 
  #24  
Old 11-28-2006, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by sillypuddy
my dad saw this post and did the install in my fit

he noticed the block of foam, and basically positioned the map light so that he can take out the block of foam.. he then split the block of foam in half, use it to prop up front and back of the hole so that when you push on the homelink buttons, it's still supported

on my odysessy, when the doors open, the map lights turn on.. is that what the middle pin is for?

-joe
I kind of figure that was the case. I was thinking about hollowing it out so the light would fit in it but it would be quicker to cut it in half. Did he say whether it was glued in place or not?

Steve.
 
  #25  
Old 11-28-2006, 08:26 AM
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it was glue to the head liner..

the block was only about 1.5" x 1.5" x 8" so you wont' be able to "hollow" it out :-)

thanks for the tip about the door light

-joe
 
  #26  
Old 11-28-2006, 01:26 PM
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When I plugged my CL unit in my Odyssey to test it, it didn't turn the lights on with the doors. Maybe the CL uses a positive trigger instead of negative?

As for the foam, I used the parts supplied with the overhead console.
 
  #27  
Old 11-28-2006, 02:43 PM
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you actually bought a new console? they are expensive.. unless you didn't get homelink with yours?

-joe
 
  #28  
Old 11-28-2006, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by spider2k
ones constant 12v, ones ground and the other will be negative switched from the door circuit to trigger the lights when you open the door. just tie it into the existing dome light.
Originally Posted by b17gsr
When I plugged my CL unit in my Odyssey to test it, it didn't turn the lights on with the doors. Maybe the CL uses a positive trigger instead of negative?

As for the foam, I used the parts supplied with the overhead console.
I tested my light this evening with a battery to make sure everything worked. The switched lights come on with the two outside pins powered. When you take the center pin to ground it lights the lights as long as they aren't already turned on. So, this would mean they are negative switched from the door circuit. Haven't pulled the dome light yet to see how it is wired.

My light came only with the light, no bracket was included. Time to fabricate one.
 
  #29  
Old 11-28-2006, 08:17 PM
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damn man

i should have asked before i closed everything up.. now i have to drag another wire to the console :-)

-joe
 
  #30  
Old 11-29-2006, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by sillypuddy
you actually bought a new console? they are expensive.. unless you didn't get homelink with yours?
The JDM roof console.

Damn, I'll have to retest that negative trigger...
 
  #31  
Old 11-29-2006, 07:41 PM
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this is somewhat on topic, for those that have installed the homelink from a CL; do you have an opener with rolling codes, and does it work.

Thanks!
 
  #32  
Old 11-29-2006, 07:52 PM
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thats awesome, good job! i'm going to have to keep this in mind.
 
  #33  
Old 11-29-2006, 10:06 PM
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yes it works

you need to get rolling code instructions for the programming

-joe
 
  #34  
Old 11-29-2006, 11:31 PM
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My CL map lights refuse to work with that middle negative trigger. GRRR...
 
  #35  
Old 11-30-2006, 07:52 AM
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I was able to get my Homelink to work with my garage door opener on the middle button. Couldn't get it to work on the first button by following the Homelink programming instructions. Once I get it installed I'll play with it some more. I have a wireless X-10 starter setup from Rat Shack that I bought about 7 years ago to play around with. Maybe I'll finally get to use it for something.
 
  #36  
Old 11-30-2006, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by b17gsr
My CL map lights refuse to work with that middle negative trigger. GRRR...
Does your Homelink work? If so, then you have the polarity correct on your current setup. I noticed when I was playing around with mine testing it out that the light would light no matter which way the battery was hooked up but the Homelink needed it to be one way. Just a thought.
 
  #37  
Old 11-30-2006, 10:07 AM
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Homelink works fine. Odds are something internal is screwy. No biggy, I don't need that much lighting when I get into my Fit.
 
  #38  
Old 11-30-2006, 10:17 AM
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did you reset your homelink and then reprogram the buttons?

-joe
 
  #39  
Old 11-30-2006, 10:40 AM
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How do you reset it? I didn't see that on the Homelink website.
 
  #40  
Old 12-07-2006, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by sillypuddy
yes it works

you need to get rolling code instructions for the programming

-joe
with most setups all you do is train the homelink as usual (click the clicker while doing the weirdy dance on your head singing honda is great, etc etc), then you go to your garage door opener and have it accept your homelink as a trigger. break out your manual and look up how to add new remotes.

this, effectively, sets your opener to respond to one static code. homelink devices don't have the ability to mimic a rolling code so this is the workaround. with non-rolling-code setups you wouldn't have to program your opener, it would just respond thinking your homelink IS your old remote.
 


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