Can I put 2 batteries in parallel for my fit??

 

Thanks, I got the IDEA now, I have to install an ISOLATOR for additional battery. I need more battery because Im planning to Istall 2 power amp. THANKS A LOT!!!!

 

unless you are planning to run some VERY large amps then you shouldnt need an extra battery. maybe a capacitor. also worry more about your alternator dying than another battery if you are going to be pulling an enormous amount of current.

 

Ya, I got a 1 farad cap. well, I think that will be alright..thanks.

 

yes, worry about your alternator. get it rewound for higher output. otherwise, your alternator will be overworked trying to keep charge 2 batteries.

 

I have 2 capacitors, Im not so sure if this can handle the 2 amplifier 600w each.

 

if you rough guess assuming they are even 500 each thats 1kw total. thats still around 70 amps @ 14 volts and id wager the factory alternator isnt even 100amps. you should still be okay just use the cap. even though it technically needs to be bigger most of the time it will suffice.

 

Thanks for the idea.Thats great...I appreciate everybody's help!!

 

i would get a bigger amperage alternator

 

i hope i can get bigger amp alternator here in uk. I dont think they will agree with that..you know here in uk they follow what's in the book.

 

One Optima battery will do the trick. They are made with audio output in mind. I think its the red cap you are going to need. I have a 1000 watt amp and I've had no problem with the stock battery. If I add any monitors or deck amps I was told by my audio guy just to buy an Optima.
Hope this helps!

 

what do you mean "in the book"??

any audio guru knows the source of the problem is a weak alternator. a capacitor is just a band-aid to the problem. heck, it might even make things worse. Most civic/rsx alternators are rated 90amps.

you're better off upgrading the battery and doing the Big 3 wire upgrades. that alone helps a TON on your electrical system. Big 3 is upgrading the wires from:
neg battery ground to chassis
ground to engine block (silver)
power to alternator

heres a real world test result showing how a cap does not really help you out in real world and in fact very slightly reduces your voltage.
http://www.clnzx2.com/Captest.pdf

caps can go to hell.

 

Ya, Ive checked the exp chart.Well,'' in the BOOK'' means they will not provide or do the parts replacement or modification if it is not in the design..Perfectionist in short. That's why Im trying to do it my self. The Idea seems have a GOOD result. I will try all the advices I got here in the forum and i will experiment it my self. Thanks!

 

Perhaps we should lay down some basics:

When the car is not running, everything runs off the battery.
The more current pulled from the battery, the sooner your battery will empty. The current draw is independent of the rating of the amp. You can have a 600W rated amplifier that pulls only 10 amps, while a 100W rated amplifier cranked can draw 30 amps. It's really the efficiency of the amplifier and the level you're playing.
When the car is running, everything runs off the alternator. The battery acts like a pond that has a stream going in and a stream going out. The output is impacted very little by the input as long as the input rate is greater than or equal to the output rate. If you're drawing more amps then the alternator is putting out, the battery will drain. Ever see a car's headlights dim while the subs are hitting hard? That's because the amplifier want more power than the system can provide, so it steals it from the other components.
A capacitor can provide power a lot quick than a battery. That will stop the headlights from dimming but only for an instance until it can recharge. So the cap evens out the electrical demand. It does work and few systems are good enough to notice any real sound quality or power quality problems.

From what you've posted so far, you essentially asked a question to fix a problem that you don't know if you have. Why don't you post what you're planning on doing and then ask if anyone has any suggestions to make it work within the Fit? Are you planning to have 2 375mm subs? Or are you going with 300mm or may be just a single 250? There are sub amps that are designed to "Class D" which is very efficient. You can have an output of 1000W but only draw 20 amps while doing it. When selecting subwoofers, take a look at the SPL rating. A 92db@1 watt sub will be twice as loud as an 89db@1 watt sub. There is a lot to learn and a lot of shady characters who will take your bob and give you shite. But the people here don't have anywhere to spend your money and will help you without giving you the shaft.

 

yah yah, I bought an Isolator for 2 Battery But I dont know if I hooked it right. And I put 5Farad Capacitor as well. My power Amp is Class D fusion FJL-811d I have 14.6v output on the battery so that the amp giving 475watts RMS output. Subwoofer is Infinity Kappa perfect VQ SENSITIVITY 89Db @2.83v/1m. and I have 2 Ch Amp Fusion FE-402 that drives the Component Speakers. Still not finish the set-up yet. there are more adjustment to be done. I bought a bigger alternator as well but I dont think it will fit or match the allignment of original alt. I got 75amp alt for honda civic.Thanks!