Basslink installation help
Basslink installation help
I got my Infinity Basslink today - it's really nice!
The instructions for speaker-level input say you have to splice into all four speakers. Is that really necessary and what purpose does it serve?
Also for people who have installed subs in their Fit, where are good spots you've found for a ground connection? I haven't looked around yet so any opinions would be a head start.
The instructions for speaker-level input say you have to splice into all four speakers. Is that really necessary and what purpose does it serve?
Also for people who have installed subs in their Fit, where are good spots you've found for a ground connection? I haven't looked around yet so any opinions would be a head start.
I think the concept is that splicing a sub into just one speaker line is too great a drain and can cause subpar performance for both drivers. For what it's worth, I have mine spliced into a pair and everything is peachy keen.
As for a ground, I used one of the bolts under the trunk cardboard-esque liner.
As for a ground, I used one of the bolts under the trunk cardboard-esque liner.
Remember that the sport has 6 speakers and the base has 4. I believe I patched into rl/rr and don't use any fade.
I installed my sub like 8 months ago and don't recall the colors, but I do know the charts I found here were wrong. Not wrong by a lot, but wrong enough that it didn't work the first time and had to redo it the old fashioned way. If you don't have a digital multimeter, I highly suggest you buy one. You can find cheap ones for like $25.
I'll assume you don't know how to use one, but if you do ignore this part and maybe it'll help someone else ;p
- Put it in volts/dc mode, and put the black/ground probe on bare metal (chassis behind the headunit or the sleeve in the cigarette lighter works fine), and use the other probe to start testing pins. You're looking for the one that supplies 12v when the ignition is set to ON and 0v when the car is off. This is your remote start. Mark it.
- Set it to resistance mode, keep the black probe grounded and use the other to test the pins. When you find one that reads 1, you've found the ground. You don't really need it because you'll be grounding to the chassis, but it's good to know anyway.
- Set it to ohms mode and use both probes on the harness. When you get a reading of 3-7, you've found two wires that lead to the same speaker. If I remember correctly, all the speakers are next to each other and the - are all on one side of the harness and the + are all on the other. Mark them.
- Take a AA battery, and cut and strip one one pair of your speaker wires. Connect one to the + and one to the -. You'll hear a pop. Find the speaker and test it again while looking at it. If the cone pops out, you've found the + and -. If it pops in, you have it reversed. Since the rest of the harness is set up the same, you now know the - & + of the rest.
- Wire everything up and let the bass go boom.
I installed my sub like 8 months ago and don't recall the colors, but I do know the charts I found here were wrong. Not wrong by a lot, but wrong enough that it didn't work the first time and had to redo it the old fashioned way. If you don't have a digital multimeter, I highly suggest you buy one. You can find cheap ones for like $25.
I'll assume you don't know how to use one, but if you do ignore this part and maybe it'll help someone else ;p
- Put it in volts/dc mode, and put the black/ground probe on bare metal (chassis behind the headunit or the sleeve in the cigarette lighter works fine), and use the other probe to start testing pins. You're looking for the one that supplies 12v when the ignition is set to ON and 0v when the car is off. This is your remote start. Mark it.
- Set it to resistance mode, keep the black probe grounded and use the other to test the pins. When you find one that reads 1, you've found the ground. You don't really need it because you'll be grounding to the chassis, but it's good to know anyway.
- Set it to ohms mode and use both probes on the harness. When you get a reading of 3-7, you've found two wires that lead to the same speaker. If I remember correctly, all the speakers are next to each other and the - are all on one side of the harness and the + are all on the other. Mark them.
- Take a AA battery, and cut and strip one one pair of your speaker wires. Connect one to the + and one to the -. You'll hear a pop. Find the speaker and test it again while looking at it. If the cone pops out, you've found the + and -. If it pops in, you have it reversed. Since the rest of the harness is set up the same, you now know the - & + of the rest.
- Wire everything up and let the bass go boom.
I do have a multimeter - thanks for the tips on finding the right wires.
You say you have your sound centered. I like to have mine faded to the front quite a bit. Would this have any affect on the signal the sub is receiving if I were to connect to RL/RR speakers? Perhaps that is the reason for connecting in line to all four speakers.
Greatly appreciate the help!
You say you have your sound centered. I like to have mine faded to the front quite a bit. Would this have any affect on the signal the sub is receiving if I were to connect to RL/RR speakers? Perhaps that is the reason for connecting in line to all four speakers.
Greatly appreciate the help!
At first I thought yes, but I went and checked it out and the bass is the same no matter where I fade the speakers.
Although, that could be because I tapped them with a line out converter before going to my amp. I don't think so though, since I was under the impression that "speaker level" ins on an amp like yours is just a line out converter built in.
Although, that could be because I tapped them with a line out converter before going to my amp. I don't think so though, since I was under the impression that "speaker level" ins on an amp like yours is just a line out converter built in.
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