Well I started this week on my budget sound deadening. I'm kinda new to the forum. I guess I'll give a little intro to myself. I'm an electrical engineering student, been building audio equipment for about 5 years and got started in car audio, then moved on to home audio, my preference. I used to drive an SC300 but after it died I got a Fit. I put in my CDA-9833 and am installing my amp eD nine.2 and a pair of Tang Band w6-1139s that I've had for a couple years.

So I'm using Peal'n Seal, the Lowes new aluminum flashing (sucks, only 20 mil but with enough layers should be fine), liquid eDead, and carpet padding. So far I've put Peal'n Seal on all the doors and trunk. I put the new variant on the entire floor board and have gone added more to the doors. I painted the liquid eDead in the trunk and around the wheel wells. I have also painted the rear floor board and the door trim. I had some problem with the plastic pannels vibrating quite a bit so I figure the added mass is good. Tomorrow I will add liquid eDead to the front floorboard and add all of the carpet padding (hopefully). I've been reading about carpet padding quite a bit and what is open cell or closed cell foam. I ended up with the generic carpet padding from Lowes with the mousture barrier. I figure I can't go wrong with the mousture barrier. I will add the carpet padding to all the doors and the entire floor board, hopefully. I'm also going to wire my amp tomorrow. Hopefully I can get it all in because I don't want to worry about it since I've got finals on Monday.

The amp will be mounted on the RHS skin of the trunk. Hopefully the way in which it is mounted it won't interfere with opening the lid to get to the spare. Haven't mounted the amp yet either.

Thanks,

Josh

(pictures on the website)

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3071613

 

Well i was unable to get everything done, but i was able to wire the amp power and ground along with run the speaker wires to the doors (that was quite a task!). I finished up all the liquid eDead on the floor board. I added carpet padding and put the factory carpet back on along with the front seats. I've been having to drive the car everyday, so I've had to put the front seats in and make sure the air bags are connected properly before i go anywhere. I've had to remove the front seats 3 times now. Just a warning, the passanger seat is not fun! For the next couple days I will probably not get any work done because I need to study for finals. After my last 2 finals I have to finish up the car becuase I'm moving to NJ. I've been driving the car around the last couple of days with all the skin in my house. Today was totally different from yesterday. Today I had the liquid eDead on the floor, the carpet padding, and the factory carpet. Since there is no skins in the back it was still a little noisy on the high way, but after I put the other skins back in it should be pretty good. I've had a problem with the skins vibrating so I've taken the time to put liquid eDead on a lot of the pannels. Below is a pic of the sound deadened floor with carpet padding.

Thanks,

Josh

 

I just spent the last 45 min modifying the speaker adapter to accept my Tand Bands but no.... these will not fit in the doors. The frame is much too large to fit into the door, unless I use a 1.5" spacer. Even then I don't think that the door panel will fit on. So I guess I'll leave the stock speakers in there for now. I have these 2 TBs and I have an eD 13kv.2, I can whip up a box for either one (2 in the case of the TBs). I just modelled everything, i guess I'll build a quick box for the TBs. My friend thinks that i should cut the sheet metal, but i'm not sure i want to do that. Suggestions?

Thanks,

Josh

 

Although I'm still pissed that I can't put my TBs in the doors I guess it will be okay. I've still got a couple of days before I leave for 7 months so I can still whip up a nice sub, which will definately sound nicer. I finished up the doors today and ran my RCAs and remote turn on. I was able to install most of the panneling back into the car, but didn't have time to get to the trunk before it got too dark. I've been talking to invisible21 about mounting hardware since I'm going to mount my amp in a similar location. I'll have to wait to get home before I can do that since I don't have a jigsaw here at school.

Not many replies , but I remember now what its like to be new to a forum.

Thanks,

Josh

 

I'm following your thread man... lots of leg work your doing here and is great info for others... although it probably seems unappreciated to you since there are no replys... there are a few of us that do appreciate it. Keep up the pictures in your thread!

 

Thanks sloto200, I'll add some more pics to the thread.

So today I finished putting my car back together and I built a little box for the Tang Bands. There are quite a few things I didn't talk about in the forum or take pictures of. So here is picture of the trunk skin with some sound deadening on it. All of the skins actually have sound deadening on them.

So more importantly is the enclosure I built for the subs today. The subs is two seperate chambers, both bass reflex tuned to 35Hz. Its all 3/4" mdf (i hate using mdf, but I'm not going to waste any of my precious BB on this temp enclosure). The its made to fit into the trunk behind the seats, with the angle (when the seats are leaned all the way back). The angles not perfect, but no worries, its only a couple degrees off. So below is a picture of the box

 

Not totally satisfied with just showing that pic of the box so here is some more.

 

I'm really wanting to put some subs in the back of my car... but the Texas heat is approching fast and i think window tint will be my first mod to the car. I have an appointment on Monday to get it done. Have to wait on the subs for a while...

 

You know what % your thinking about getting? I got mine done about a month ago. I really like it a lot, 20% all around. It makes the car much more relaxing to be in. The Fit has so many windows its very bright to drive during the day. The tint makes my long drives more relaxing.

I'm about to move to NJ for a job, once I get my first paycheck I'm gonna start checking things off my shopping list. #1 an alarm!!! All these stolen Fits lately has got me worries. I don't really want to keep a sub in my trunk all the time because the thing I love about the Fit is got I can put all my stuff in it. In 2 days I'll be loading the car up and driving 400 miles home. Then a week and a half later I have to drive 12.5 hours up to NJ. I'm going to be living in NJ for 7 months working on the job and can pack all my stuff (including tools to work on the car) in the Fit. I'm going to have to check out eDs 6.5" subs to see if they will go in the doors.

Thanks,

Josh

 

what size do the Pealn"Seal come in? also do they have a tar smell to them?

 

I would highly reccomend against peal'n'seal. It's asphalt based so will slowly let off toxic fumes. Will stick only to level surfaces well. It falls off any vertical surface after a few hot weeks.

B-quiet extreme, Fatmat, Raam mat, eDead V.2 are all good dynamat extreme alternatives at very reasonable prices.

 

I will go as dark on the window tint as Texas Law will allow me too. Did that with my Mazda minivan back in 03 and we love it. Cuts down on so much heat in the van. The guy that did the tint even let me pick a couple of % past legal limit in Cali... doubt i'll get the same treatment here. I'll snap a few pics on Monday after i get the tint installed.

 

Injundon,

My understanding is that asphalt is the most toxic at high temperatures. Most of the symptoms related to this are not related to the respitory system. Once the asphalt is cooled it is much less toxic. The CDC did research about the affects of asphalt fumes, mostly related to the manufacturing of asphalt and road pavers. The study did include roofers also. The amount of tar in the tar paper does quite compare to the amount when roofing or paving a road. Personally I don't think its too much of a big deal, but to each their own. I've read many of your posts and its obvious your very knowledgable about car audio. Not trying to argue your opinion, just legitamize my own. I agree that products specifically designed for car audio are much better and likely safer to use. Being a college student I'm working to do my best to cut corners. Although in my experience peal'n seal is fine on verticle surfaces as long as applied with a heat gun and during warm weather.

toxicavenger,
Peal'n Seal is 6" wide. The roll is 25'. If applied with a heat gun the tar small does not last as long (in my experience). It lasts a couple days to a week. I'd recommend doing it during the summer.


Josh

 

Today I was able to install the subs in the trunk and get a good listen. WOW! They hit very hard for 6.5" subs. I've been using them for home audio for about 2 years now and its much different with cabin gain. I'm very satisfied with the enclosure, no port turbulance and my cabin is basically rattle free. A quick walk around my car I knowticed that my liscnece plate holder rattles so I'm going to remove it. I took a quick video of my rear view mirror (this was taken with my cell phone!).

 

I fully undersand trying to save the money. Can't argue that one. But with the asphalt deadeners, the problem si that the car is an enclosued space, ad living in ATL the heat cooks the car and relases alot of fumes that don't get vented out when you get in. After a few weeks you will stop smelling the funes as you get accustomed to them. Passengers will always think your car smells funny for at least a year. The fumes don't prticularly hve any short term harmful effects, juts stinky and yet another one of 200 daily things we all experience that promote cancer. weeee. I just cannot reccomend peel''seal because it only has a minimal effect as a sound deadener. The carpet padding does alot more good. even in the doors to absorb unwanted noise. Buying 1 Dynamat extreme door kit will deaden around all 4 spakers adequately if you line your door cars with the cheapo automotive underpadding.

I am a fanatical rattle and resonance hunter. in my competition car I've gone so far as to epoxy fill every plastic joint between panels, dynamat everything in 1-2 layers, have 1/8" thick lead sheets on my floors/firewal and in m doors to absorb road noise. (painted to prevent toxic dust). Stuffed all the hollow areas of my headliner with sound absorbing carpet padding. removed the curtain and pillar air bags, filled those areas with sound absorbing filler.

Can never have enough

 

Injundon,

Didn't know you did competition. I'm sure the little shake of my rear view mirror can't quite compare. Although with the crapy quality and how quick it shakes the video really doesn't do it justice. I have not rode around too much so we will see if the rear view mirros stays on if I leave a song on for its full lengeth.

By the way, do you think that painting the eDead over the peal'n seal has an effect on the smell or toxins?

sloto200,

A friend knows the tint shop really well and hooked me up since I drove home to get my tint done (400 miles). Don't tell anyone but I had to come home for a holiday that weekend anyway. I think you say you will pay in cash you might be able to get it a little darker.

Josh

 

I'll give that a shot... thanks!

 

man my spelling this morning was awful

 

Painting e-dead over it will help I'm sure.

 

Well I've looked at the eD 6.5" woofer and have figured out that it is not going to fit either. So for now I have the 2x 6.5" TB woofers in my trunk, suprizing people who know that it is 2 6.5" woofers with a total of 200W. Not sure when I can do it, since I'll be in NJ soon without my tools, but I've decided on another woofer. Not sure how familiar you all are with Dayton woofers, but the Dayton Titanic subs are great. There 10" has vas of less than 1 ft^3 and will hit harder and cleaner than the 2 6.5". With a larger surface area, a more efficient driver, and a driver which can easily handle 400W, it is perfect for this application.

I'll keep you updated, I should be carpetting my box today.

Josh