Battery Removal? FIT
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New Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
From: United States
Battery Removal? FIT
I plan to store my '09 Fit in an unheated barn to keep it out of winter salt. I want to remove the battery. Any danger in doing so? Will I mess up a few computers (or something) by leaving power off the system for about 6 months? This was a big problem on my VW Diesel Bug. Appreciate any help. Thanks.
if you have power in your barn you can hook up a battery manager and keep the battery in top shape. actually i have my hobby cars always hooked up to them during the week since i only drive them on the weekends. 
they too hibernate in the winter.
you can get battery managers from amazon for like $30.
as for removing the battery... not sure.
they too hibernate in the winter.
you can get battery managers from amazon for like $30.
as for removing the battery... not sure.
here's the one ive been using for many years... read the reviews too.
Amazon.com: Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V Battery Charger: Automotive
Amazon.com: Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V Battery Charger: Automotive
Thread Starter
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New Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
From: United States
No power and no heat in the barn! I do need to remove my Fit's battery (tiny thing). This is no problem for my '64 Studebaker (no computers), but it was for my '98 New Beetle Diesel (lots of computers). My question is: will I have problems with my '09 Fit's computers in the spring when I put the battery back in? Will I have to drag it to the dealer to re-program computers as I had to do with my NB Diesel? Will the Fit's going without power for 6 months in storage have and ill effects on the car? Thanks for your reply, Kenchan.
No you won't have any issues. All you need to do is the idle re-learn.
My dad does this on his 09 Fit when he leaves for business trips. The longest he ever went was a 6 week trip, there were no issues.
My dad does this on his 09 Fit when he leaves for business trips. The longest he ever went was a 6 week trip, there were no issues.
Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 178
From: Central Texas
Here is a general list for long term storage, some do not apply, but you get the idea. Do put the battery on a battery Tender once you have it removed.
Re: LONG TERM STORAGE
Storage Checklist:
Drain and flush the radiator, refill with new antifreeze.
Place a cover of some kind over the radiator overflow line, bugs will make a home there and plug the line.
Change the Engine Oil and filter. Used oil is acidic and may harm your engine over a long period of time.
Lubricate all the grease fittings, the door, hood & trunk hinges.
Top off the gas tank, add fuel stablizer. If the gas tank has a vent line, be sure to cover it.
Cover the ends of the exhaust to prevent critters from making a home in the exhaust.
Remove the aircleaner and cover the top of the carb with light plastic and then reinstall the aircleaner.
Remove the battery and store it away from the car.
Put a light coat of wax on the paint and chrome.
Clean the interior of the car and apply vinyl protectant.
Adding moth balls (every where), a open box of baking soda and some rat poison in the car to deter rodent making it their home.
Use a rubber lubricant on the door and trunk seals.
Put the car on jack stands just high enough that the tires do not touch the ground.
Make sure you release the hand or parking brake.
Cover the car with quality car cover. Be sure the cover does not go all the way to the floor or ground, it is important for air to circulate under the car.
If you are worried about theft, remove the rotor from the distributor and store it with the keys.
Place a copy of the storage checklist in the glove box to use when you remove the car from storage.
When you are ready to remove from storage:
Reinstall battery.
Remove the cover on the carb and radiator oveflow line.
Reinstall the rotor in the distributor.
Drain the engine oil, replace the oil filter and make sure you fill the ne oil filter with some oil before placing back into its location.
Fill the engine with oil.
Check the dip stick to verify that the oil is flowing freely onto the engine.
Drain your cooling system completely and replace with new cooling mixture.
Remove the bag from the air intake, remove the air intake and check the trottle body for any rust, there shouldn't be any, prime the trottle body by putting about 2 ounces of gasoline directly.
Place the air intake back properly,
Move the key from lock to just where you can hear the fuel pump working do this at least 10 times and try starting at the 11th time.
Only turn on for about 10 seconds and turn it off, check your oil level and top up.
Now you can turn it on and go for a ride making sure to test your brakes by doing a few go and stops at slow speed before you decide to go far.
Re: LONG TERM STORAGE
Storage Checklist:
Drain and flush the radiator, refill with new antifreeze.
Place a cover of some kind over the radiator overflow line, bugs will make a home there and plug the line.
Change the Engine Oil and filter. Used oil is acidic and may harm your engine over a long period of time.
Lubricate all the grease fittings, the door, hood & trunk hinges.
Top off the gas tank, add fuel stablizer. If the gas tank has a vent line, be sure to cover it.
Cover the ends of the exhaust to prevent critters from making a home in the exhaust.
Remove the aircleaner and cover the top of the carb with light plastic and then reinstall the aircleaner.
Remove the battery and store it away from the car.
Put a light coat of wax on the paint and chrome.
Clean the interior of the car and apply vinyl protectant.
Adding moth balls (every where), a open box of baking soda and some rat poison in the car to deter rodent making it their home.
Use a rubber lubricant on the door and trunk seals.
Put the car on jack stands just high enough that the tires do not touch the ground.
Make sure you release the hand or parking brake.
Cover the car with quality car cover. Be sure the cover does not go all the way to the floor or ground, it is important for air to circulate under the car.
If you are worried about theft, remove the rotor from the distributor and store it with the keys.
Place a copy of the storage checklist in the glove box to use when you remove the car from storage.
When you are ready to remove from storage:
Reinstall battery.
Remove the cover on the carb and radiator oveflow line.
Reinstall the rotor in the distributor.
Drain the engine oil, replace the oil filter and make sure you fill the ne oil filter with some oil before placing back into its location.
Fill the engine with oil.
Check the dip stick to verify that the oil is flowing freely onto the engine.
Drain your cooling system completely and replace with new cooling mixture.
Remove the bag from the air intake, remove the air intake and check the trottle body for any rust, there shouldn't be any, prime the trottle body by putting about 2 ounces of gasoline directly.
Place the air intake back properly,
Move the key from lock to just where you can hear the fuel pump working do this at least 10 times and try starting at the 11th time.
Only turn on for about 10 seconds and turn it off, check your oil level and top up.
Now you can turn it on and go for a ride making sure to test your brakes by doing a few go and stops at slow speed before you decide to go far.
Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153
From: Sunny Kalifornia
That's excellent advise for every car/bike in our garage! Thanks! 
Here is a general list for long term storage, some do not apply, but you get the idea. Do put the battery on a battery Tender once you have it removed.
Re: LONG TERM STORAGE
Storage Checklist:
Drain and flush the radiator, refill with new antifreeze.
Place a cover of some kind over the radiator overflow line, bugs will make a home there and plug the line.
Change the Engine Oil and filter. Used oil is acidic and may harm your engine over a long period of time.
Lubricate all the grease fittings, the door, hood & trunk hinges.
Top off the gas tank, add fuel stablizer. If the gas tank has a vent line, be sure to cover it.
Cover the ends of the exhaust to prevent critters from making a home in the exhaust.
Remove the aircleaner and cover the top of the carb with light plastic and then reinstall the aircleaner.
Remove the battery and store it away from the car.
Put a light coat of wax on the paint and chrome.
Clean the interior of the car and apply vinyl protectant.
Adding moth balls (every where), a open box of baking soda and some rat poison in the car to deter rodent making it their home.
Use a rubber lubricant on the door and trunk seals.
Put the car on jack stands just high enough that the tires do not touch the ground.
Make sure you release the hand or parking brake.
Cover the car with quality car cover. Be sure the cover does not go all the way to the floor or ground, it is important for air to circulate under the car.
If you are worried about theft, remove the rotor from the distributor and store it with the keys.
Place a copy of the storage checklist in the glove box to use when you remove the car from storage.
When you are ready to remove from storage:
Reinstall battery.
Remove the cover on the carb and radiator oveflow line.
Reinstall the rotor in the distributor.
Drain the engine oil, replace the oil filter and make sure you fill the ne oil filter with some oil before placing back into its location.
Fill the engine with oil.
Check the dip stick to verify that the oil is flowing freely onto the engine.
Drain your cooling system completely and replace with new cooling mixture.
Remove the bag from the air intake, remove the air intake and check the trottle body for any rust, there shouldn't be any, prime the trottle body by putting about 2 ounces of gasoline directly.
Place the air intake back properly,
Move the key from lock to just where you can hear the fuel pump working do this at least 10 times and try starting at the 11th time.
Only turn on for about 10 seconds and turn it off, check your oil level and top up.
Now you can turn it on and go for a ride making sure to test your brakes by doing a few go and stops at slow speed before you decide to go far.
Re: LONG TERM STORAGE
Storage Checklist:
Drain and flush the radiator, refill with new antifreeze.
Place a cover of some kind over the radiator overflow line, bugs will make a home there and plug the line.
Change the Engine Oil and filter. Used oil is acidic and may harm your engine over a long period of time.
Lubricate all the grease fittings, the door, hood & trunk hinges.
Top off the gas tank, add fuel stablizer. If the gas tank has a vent line, be sure to cover it.
Cover the ends of the exhaust to prevent critters from making a home in the exhaust.
Remove the aircleaner and cover the top of the carb with light plastic and then reinstall the aircleaner.
Remove the battery and store it away from the car.
Put a light coat of wax on the paint and chrome.
Clean the interior of the car and apply vinyl protectant.
Adding moth balls (every where), a open box of baking soda and some rat poison in the car to deter rodent making it their home.
Use a rubber lubricant on the door and trunk seals.
Put the car on jack stands just high enough that the tires do not touch the ground.
Make sure you release the hand or parking brake.
Cover the car with quality car cover. Be sure the cover does not go all the way to the floor or ground, it is important for air to circulate under the car.
If you are worried about theft, remove the rotor from the distributor and store it with the keys.
Place a copy of the storage checklist in the glove box to use when you remove the car from storage.
When you are ready to remove from storage:
Reinstall battery.
Remove the cover on the carb and radiator oveflow line.
Reinstall the rotor in the distributor.
Drain the engine oil, replace the oil filter and make sure you fill the ne oil filter with some oil before placing back into its location.
Fill the engine with oil.
Check the dip stick to verify that the oil is flowing freely onto the engine.
Drain your cooling system completely and replace with new cooling mixture.
Remove the bag from the air intake, remove the air intake and check the trottle body for any rust, there shouldn't be any, prime the trottle body by putting about 2 ounces of gasoline directly.
Place the air intake back properly,
Move the key from lock to just where you can hear the fuel pump working do this at least 10 times and try starting at the 11th time.
Only turn on for about 10 seconds and turn it off, check your oil level and top up.
Now you can turn it on and go for a ride making sure to test your brakes by doing a few go and stops at slow speed before you decide to go far.
As a safety measure remove the negative cable first to avoid possibly grounding out the positive cable when removing it..... As hot as it gets here, I am happy that I get to drive my car year round.
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 89
From: GR, MI
I in west michigan and here what I do,
I take the car to hwy to charge the batt full and then park it with full gas, I unhook the negative and that's it.
trickle charging for long period of time is bad for the battery,
I would suggest take the batt of and using a good 3 stage charger with built in desulphation (you can get one at walmart for 40$) and charging the batt every few months if you have the time.
I take the car to hwy to charge the batt full and then park it with full gas, I unhook the negative and that's it.
trickle charging for long period of time is bad for the battery,
I would suggest take the batt of and using a good 3 stage charger with built in desulphation (you can get one at walmart for 40$) and charging the batt every few months if you have the time.
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 33
From: Cleveland, OH
I in west michigan and here what I do,
I take the car to hwy to charge the batt full and then park it with full gas, I unhook the negative and that's it.
trickle charging for long period of time is bad for the battery,
I would suggest take the batt of and using a good 3 stage charger with built in desulphation (you can get one at walmart for 40$) and charging the batt every few months if you have the time.
I take the car to hwy to charge the batt full and then park it with full gas, I unhook the negative and that's it.
trickle charging for long period of time is bad for the battery,
I would suggest take the batt of and using a good 3 stage charger with built in desulphation (you can get one at walmart for 40$) and charging the batt every few months if you have the time.
Last edited by klemmaniac; Dec 21, 2017 at 03:23 AM.
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,329
From: Cleveland, GA
I would follow the advice from Vanishing Point above, including his advice to remove the battery, with the exceptions of...
- I'd leave it on the ground. Fit tires are cheaper and much easier to replace than bushing, struts, shocks, etc. If you can, the best solution is to have it on jack stands with the weight still on the suspension points. Don't let the suspension hang freely.
- Add fogging the motor to your list. Stabil and Amsoil make good fogging sprays. Here's a how to: How to Use Fogging Oil for Your Car Engine Before Long Term Storage
Good luck!
- I'd leave it on the ground. Fit tires are cheaper and much easier to replace than bushing, struts, shocks, etc. If you can, the best solution is to have it on jack stands with the weight still on the suspension points. Don't let the suspension hang freely.
- Add fogging the motor to your list. Stabil and Amsoil make good fogging sprays. Here's a how to: How to Use Fogging Oil for Your Car Engine Before Long Term Storage
Good luck!
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 33
From: Cleveland, OH
I would follow the advice from Vanishing Point above, including his advice to remove the battery, with the exceptions of...
- I'd leave it on the ground. Fit tires are cheaper and much easier to replace than bushing, struts, shocks, etc. If you can, the best solution is to have it on jack stands with the weight still on the suspension points. Don't let the suspension hang freely.
- Add fogging the motor to your list. Stabil and Amsoil make good fogging sprays. Here's a how to: How to Use Fogging Oil for Your Car Engine Before Long Term Storage
Good luck!
- I'd leave it on the ground. Fit tires are cheaper and much easier to replace than bushing, struts, shocks, etc. If you can, the best solution is to have it on jack stands with the weight still on the suspension points. Don't let the suspension hang freely.
- Add fogging the motor to your list. Stabil and Amsoil make good fogging sprays. Here's a how to: How to Use Fogging Oil for Your Car Engine Before Long Term Storage
Good luck!
The other major concern is leaving the battery unattended on a tender charger. Some articles I read stated that hydrogen is released when the battery is charging which could create a fire hazard. I also read that some batteries discharge about 5% per month when disconnected (this would leave my battery about 50-60% charged when I return). I'm thinking of just disconnecting the battery (leaving it in the car) without a battery tender. Do you think this is a bad idea? The storage unit is not climate controlled, but the winters where I live now are pretty mild, so I don't think the temperatures would be extremely cold regularly.
Last edited by klemmaniac; Dec 21, 2017 at 01:32 PM.
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,329
From: Cleveland, GA
Those are good plans.
The battery will probably be OK just unhooked, but it may be worth the extra precaution of removing it entirely.
If you have a battery charger/tender with trickle/low amp mode, I would plan on charging the battery for a couple of hours upon return. Worst case with the battery is you have to buy another one.
The battery will probably be OK just unhooked, but it may be worth the extra precaution of removing it entirely.
If you have a battery charger/tender with trickle/low amp mode, I would plan on charging the battery for a couple of hours upon return. Worst case with the battery is you have to buy another one.
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 33
From: Cleveland, OH
Those are good plans.
The battery will probably be OK just unhooked, but it may be worth the extra precaution of removing it entirely.
If you have a battery charger/tender with trickle/low amp mode, I would plan on charging the battery for a couple of hours upon return. Worst case with the battery is you have to buy another one.
The battery will probably be OK just unhooked, but it may be worth the extra precaution of removing it entirely.
If you have a battery charger/tender with trickle/low amp mode, I would plan on charging the battery for a couple of hours upon return. Worst case with the battery is you have to buy another one.