After installing my Nardi Classic with an NRG short hub and quick release the crew at inline 4 was able to get everything to work including the horn. However like everyone else, the SRS airbag check light appears. Well I have read multiple attempts to fix this, on various forums. I have pm'd members and nobody can give me a straight answer as to what is needed to fix this.


This is the SRS Resistor Delete/Fix thread that I hope helps everyone make the switch to aftermarket wheels easier if interested.

Please, anyone that has successfully shut off their SRS light using a 2.0 OHM resistor, Works Bell U-turn resistor, etc. chime in! for me, and for the entire forum interested, because there is a ton of people out there super confused-

Thank you for any takers-

 

I just tried to disable it this week when I installed my new personal wheel with NRG hub/quick release with no luck. I believe the issue with our fits is that they have two inflators(forget the actually name) in the air bag. I tried a 2 ohm resistor in each and it did not work. I would love to know the correct way to do this

 

I'm not sure what ohm the resistors are that came with the Works Bell, but I used both to eliminate the driver and passenger airbags and have no SRS light showing up in the cluster.

 

So let me ask, the male clip exposed after removing the stock wheel, that yellow plug that used to be connected to the airbag charges is where this resistor plugs into?

On mine I see a 4 hole clip so which of the four hold did you plug your resistor into to eliminate your light?

And was it just out after you plugged it in and turned on the ignition? Or did you have to reset the system-

Thanks.

 

So in talking with Evasive Motor Sports Hugh mentioned I would need 2 resistors to plug into all 4 exposed holes to create the connections to be completed, as if the plug was never taken off. I am going to buy 2 today, drive up to Sante Fe springs and try this tonight. I'll take pics and see if it works!

I wonder if 2 x 2 Ohm resistors from Fry's would do the same thing, they cost like 50 cents vs. the works bell u turn @ 20$ a pc.

 

That does not sound correct. There are 4 holes, but only 2 active pins within the coupler. This was the same way on my old 5R Integra and then on the USDM AP2 S2000, so I doubt that it has changed. You have to make sure the pins are making contact, if you just put the pins in they are not making good contact, sliding them in like this - doesn't really seat, so need to insert them like this | . Does that make sense? Just look at where the 2 wires are entering the coupler to know which 2 of the 4 holes to insert the resistor. What I also did was to electrical tape the resistor once seated tightly.

 

Well I figured it out, finally.... Thanks to Works Bell, Inline 4, Evasive Motor Sports my car is normal again.

I'll post how I did it in steps. Simple steps.

 

So after you've successfully installed your hub using one of our members DIY aftermarket steering wheel installs proceed to this step afterwards.

You'll need to purchase (2) Airbag U Turns, basically a Fuse that makes the connection complete, hence the name "u turn".

You can find these from Evasive Motor Sports sold individually for $20.00, IMO better then just a .50 cent resistor, not saying a resistor wouldn't work, just not sure about that method.



This is the U Turns packaging made in Japan! haha

*DISCONNECT YOUR NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON THE BATTERY!!!!!! then proceed to step one.

Step one: Locate the "yellow" male harness which has a 4 pin opening. Notice in this picture:



Step two: carefully wedge the connections of the "u turn" into the smaller top hole, it needs to be fully seated to make a proper connection. As seen in the picture this will be the final look:



Step Three: Re-connect your battery and turn on the ignition. You will see this next:



And then this:



Cheers!

Don't Sue me or this forum if you eff up your car, kill yourself or something bad happens. I am just trying to help "guide" you. I don't condone not having a airbag for the passengers, my life is mine, but I would not want to harm my passengers. So this allows all your airbags present in the vehicle to functions properly.

 

It's weird, so I did this however when the car sits over night for the full 8 hours + the SRS light comes back on. I have to turn the ignition on, wait a moment then the light goes out. I can't just turn the car on right away and the light disappears. Wonder what that's all about?

 

Not sure on yours; but before when either the passenger side coupler or driver side had a bad connection, I would need to wait for a second or two before firing up completely. Sometimes it would go out and other times stay on, but I could shut down and fire up while rolling and it would go out. Eventually 1 of the 2 just was not making a good connect so reseat both resistors.

 

about ready to give this a go... is there a how-to on removal of stock wheel and airbag????? i would like to not kill myself it at all possible...

 

So those are work bell male ends? Did you have to reset your airbag light? I remember when I removed my seats to reupholster them that when I reconnected the airbags, the light came on and stayed on. I've been looking for a fix, but really had no luck. This is interesting.

 

for getting rid of the SRS light after seat removal, i just took mine to a shop to have them reset it...

 

did basically what SpoolINsight did, and installed my old CVCC wheel i refinished and re-drilled...







wheel before:


during:




After:

 

Great Job! I am glad my how to helped. Sorry I didn't answer your post about taking the stock bag out. The biggest thing to remember is..... negative needs to be off the battery for 15 min. or so to allow everything to discharge to eliminate potential explosion of the SRS bag.

 

Yeah it was actually a huge help, we sat there thinking for a minute about how we had our resister hooked up, and it didn't make sense, so I came back to this thread, and was like I need two resistors; so we had to make another one out of some of the other resistor parts that came with the hub.... Big thanks to you for the write up

 

hi there, i bought wb hub also came with two resistors. as per write up i inserted them to 4 smaller holds of the yellow male srs plug. however, i can only push half way in to the inner two holds, where outter two slot straight in. the srs light is still on atm could it be because of that?

also, is there a differences btw the two wires of each resistor? could i have pluged the wrong way around?