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Where to place my amp

  #1  
Old 08-02-2012, 02:32 PM
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Where to place my amp

Hi guys
am having issues with my wife jazz

i dont know where to fix the amp

My requirement are:
it should not be on the back of the rear seats as the seats will be folded regurlaly
not in the boot

so can anyone tell me where i cajn place it

cheers nethy
 
  #2  
Old 08-02-2012, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by nethym View Post
Hi guys
am having issues with my wife jazz

i dont know where to fix the amp

My requirement are:
it should not be on the back of the rear seats as the seats will be folded regurlaly
not in the boot

so can anyone tell me where i cajn place it

cheers nethy
A lot of people put their amps in the spare tire location.
 
  #3  
Old 08-03-2012, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Dwalbert320 View Post
A lot of people put their amps in the spare tire location.
no its my wife's car she wont know how to remove it if she needs to remove the spare tire

thanks need to find another place

cheers
 
  #4  
Old 08-03-2012, 10:24 AM
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not left with many options. if the amp is small, it might fit under one of the front seats. have a look under the dashboard, it might fit.
 
  #5  
Old 08-03-2012, 11:56 AM
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Did your 2012 come with an actual spare tire? Not being funny mine didn't....I have a kit. Can of sealant and a small compressor that I use weekly to top off my tire pressure when required to adjust to temperature changes.
 
  #6  
Old 08-03-2012, 01:27 PM
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Don't forget you can always put it on the hatchback.
 
  #7  
Old 08-03-2012, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by chunkylover8200 View Post
not left with many options. if the amp is small, it might fit under one of the front seats. have a look under the dashboard, it might fit.
nope the sony amp is quite long.. ive already tried

Originally Posted by Dwalbert320 View Post
Did your 2012 come with an actual spare tire? Not being funny mine didn't....I have a kit. Can of sealant and a small compressor that I use weekly to top off my tire pressure when required to adjust to temperature changes.
it has a small spare tire

Originally Posted by SgtBaxter View Post
Don't forget you can always put it on the hatchback.
what do you mean by on the hatch


now i was thinking of putting it on my sub

do you guys think it is advisable??

cheers
 
  #8  
Old 08-03-2012, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nethym View Post
what do you mean by on the hatch
 
  #9  
Old 08-05-2012, 12:28 AM
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ok thks for the pics
but mine is a 2005 jazz

cheers
 
  #10  
Old 08-05-2012, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by SgtBaxter View Post
Why would you ever put an amp there? Do you realize how much wire would have to be run in order to keep the functionality of the whole hatch door? Not to mention, where the hell are you going to ground it?

OP: either mount it to the sub box or mount it to the back seat, either the 60 side or the 40 side depending on how long the amp is.
 
  #11  
Old 08-05-2012, 01:27 AM
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Are you using a sealed box, tranny line box, or a bandpass box with ports?

I ask this because if you're box isnt sealed like a bandpass or tranny line box, why not mount it inside of the box? As long as you have a sub output on your head unit you wont have a need to adjust anything on the amp and these 2 boxes will let your amp still vent off the heat and get fresh air. It would definitely be out of the way then

Also I dont know if it was already said but have you thought about underneath your rear seats?
 
  #12  
Old 08-05-2012, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamy View Post
Why would you ever put an amp there? Do you realize how much wire would have to be run in order to keep the functionality of the whole hatch door? Not to mention, where the hell are you going to ground it?

OP: either mount it to the sub box or mount it to the back seat, either the 60 side or the 40 side depending on how long the amp is.
Im guessing an extra 3-4 feet??? As for the grounding of the amp...... The hatch is metal, and its connected to the unibody with metal hindges right? Anything metal is a common ground, just unbolt something and run the wire to there.
 
  #13  
Old 08-05-2012, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by CTS4MATION View Post
Are you using a sealed box, tranny line box, or a bandpass box with ports?

I ask this because if you're box isnt sealed like a bandpass or tranny line box, why not mount it inside of the box? As long as you have a sub output on your head unit you wont have a need to adjust anything on the amp and these 2 boxes will let your amp still vent off the heat and get fresh air. It would definitely be out of the way then

Also I dont know if it was already said but have you thought about underneath your rear seats?
Why would you mount the amp in the box? Then you have to make up for the displacement caused by the amp not to mention getting to anything to make adjustments is going to be a pain in the ass.. The vibrations could cause the terminals or the amp to come loose inside the box at the very least.. More than like break connections on the board inside the amp and then you're left with an expensive paper weight.. Still have to run power and ground wires to the amp in the box which means a possibility for air leaks.. The list goes on and on.

As for under the back seats, It's probably not going to fit due to how small that area is. The OP has a Sony amp apparently and I'm pretty sure they don't make anything that's compact enough to fit under there.

Originally Posted by CTS4MATION View Post
Im guessing an extra 3-4 feet??? As for the grounding of the amp...... The hatch is metal, and its connected to the unibody with metal hindges right? Anything metal is a common ground, just unbolt something and run the wire to there.
The longer of a wire you run, the more you have voltage drop. You always want to keep the wiring as short as possible to prevent this. I wouldn't ground the amp to the hatch because it's not a "great" ground. You'd be much better off grounding it to the body instead.
 
  #14  
Old 08-05-2012, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamy View Post
Why would you mount the amp in the box? Then you have to make up for the displacement caused by the amp not to mention getting to anything to make adjustments is going to be a pain in the ass.. The vibrations could cause the terminals or the amp to come loose inside the box at the very least.. More than like break connections on the board inside the amp and then you're left with an expensive paper weight.. Still have to run power and ground wires to the amp in the box which means a possibility for air leaks.. The list goes on and on.

As for under the back seats, It's probably not going to fit due to how small that area is. The OP has a Sony amp apparently and I'm pretty sure they don't make anything that's compact enough to fit under there.



The longer of a wire you run, the more you have voltage drop. You always want to keep the wiring as short as possible to prevent this. I wouldn't ground the amp to the hatch because it's not a "great" ground. You'd be much better off grounding it to the body instead.
I dont think his wife is going to be going to many SPL competitions with it so the drop in voltage to the amp (which would be w/o a doubt very minimal) if he was worried about it that much he could add a small cap to the setup and boost the voltage way up.

Why mount it in the box.... to save space inside of the car.
Adjustments would all be controlled by a decient head unit with a dedicated sub input. Just adjust your amp accordingly and call it a day.
Unless its a tranny line box you want to take up space inside the box, ever entered an SPL competition?.... Guys stuff pillows inside of their boxes to take up space resulting in a more solid "hit".
As for vibrations.... unless the amp is junk, this will have no effect. There isnt a sony amp made that will make a sub hit hard enough to break it. Ive entered several "small" competitions in my youth where I had a hidden amp inside of the box and the one on "display" was a much lower watt dummy amp (when you enter real competitions when competeing for records its gotta be legit, they check for those things).

As for the air leaks..... again this wont matter, shes not competing. Besides after you make 1 initial hold to SQUEEZE all of your wires through you will loose a very minimal amount of air..... Or just use liquid nails and coat the hole area.

Just to give you a lil background so you dont think im just some mook off the streets stating my "opinion"....
Ive held several state records in SPL, came 2nd in a national event, all through MECA when they still monitered records and competitions with the "linear X", the most hated monitor out there (VERY hard to get good numbers off of).
I wish I still had the video or knew somebody who had it. At competition I used a 91 prelude. I blew the tail lights out of it when I got one of my state records back in 2002 and that record was 2nd place overall in the nation. Since then Ive welded the back solid, and even then it would flex the h3ll out of the cheap body metal I put back there.
Ive done hundreds of custom builds, and even more standard installs.... and the "amp in the box" is one of the cleanest installs out there.
That being said I havent messed with car audio in about 10 years, but I still know how the components work
 
  #15  
Old 08-05-2012, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by CTS4MATION View Post
I dont think his wife is going to be going to many SPL competitions with it so the drop in voltage to the amp (which would be w/o a doubt very minimal) if he was worried about it that much he could add a small cap to the setup and boost the voltage way up.

Why mount it in the box.... to save space inside of the car.
Adjustments would all be controlled by a decient head unit with a dedicated sub input. Just adjust your amp accordingly and call it a day.
Unless its a tranny line box you want to take up space inside the box, ever entered an SPL competition?.... Guys stuff pillows inside of their boxes to take up space resulting in a more solid "hit".
As for vibrations.... unless the amp is junk, this will have no effect. There isnt a sony amp made that will make a sub hit hard enough to break it. Ive entered several "small" competitions in my youth where I had a hidden amp inside of the box and the one on "display" was a much lower watt dummy amp (when you enter real competitions when competeing for records its gotta be legit, they check for those things).

As for the air leaks..... again this wont matter, shes not competing. Besides after you make 1 initial hold to SQUEEZE all of your wires through you will loose a very minimal amount of air..... Or just use liquid nails and coat the hole area.

Just to give you a lil background so you dont think im just some mook off the streets stating my "opinion"....
Ive held several state records in SPL, came 2nd in a national event, all through MECA when they still monitered records and competitions with the "linear X", the most hated monitor out there (VERY hard to get good numbers off of).
I wish I still had the video or knew somebody who had it. At competition I used a 91 prelude. I blew the tail lights out of it when I got one of my state records back in 2002 and that record was 2nd place overall in the nation. Since then Ive welded the back solid, and even then it would flex the h3ll out of the cheap body metal I put back there.
Ive done hundreds of custom builds, and even more standard installs.... and the "amp in the box" is one of the cleanest installs out there.
That being said I havent messed with car audio in about 10 years, but I still know how the components work
You're right about it being a minimal voltage drop, but to me that's more than it should be. Not to mention installing it on the hatch would just be a pain anyway running the wires to where they aren't exposed.

Making adjustment's to the amp need to be done with the sub installed. You can't do this if the amp is inside the boxes. No headunit can adjust the LPF or gain on an amp.

Stuffing polyfill in a subwoofer box is not at all like putting a solid object in a box. The polyfill is used when a subwoofer box isn't quit big enough in order to simulate more volume by slowing the sound waves inside the box. A solid amp would not do this at all. And it's not for a "more solid 'hit'", but for a flatter frequency response curve.

Things today aren't at all built like they were 10 years ago. Amps are delicate computers now, not beefy square bricks that can take a beating. Entry level subwoofers make competition subwoofers from 10 years ago look like shit.

I really don't care what you've done or had in your past. I'm just saying that your idea of mounting an amp inside of a subwoofer box is up there on the list of stupid things i've heard on this forum and I've there is a lot of stupid stuff here.


OP: I'm strongly advising against mounting the amp in the box. Your best bet is mounting to the back of the back seat on the left side so you maintain the folding ability. If that isn't possible, mount it to the box. I'd use rubber washers to absorb some of the vibrations no matter how big or small your subwoofer is.
 
  #16  
Old 08-05-2012, 03:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamy View Post
You're right about it being a minimal voltage drop, but to me that's more than it should be. Not to mention installing it on the hatch would just be a pain anyway running the wires to where they aren't exposed.

Making adjustment's to the amp need to be done with the sub installed. You can't do this if the amp is inside the boxes. No headunit can adjust the LPF or gain on an amp.

Stuffing polyfill in a subwoofer box is not at all like putting a solid object in a box. The polyfill is used when a subwoofer box isn't quit big enough in order to simulate more volume by slowing the sound waves inside the box. A solid amp would not do this at all. And it's not for a "more solid 'hit'", but for a flatter frequency response curve.

Things today aren't at all built like they were 10 years ago. Amps are delicate computers now, not beefy square bricks that can take a beating. Entry level subwoofers make competition subwoofers from 10 years ago look like shit.

I really don't care what you've done or had in your past. I'm just saying that your idea of mounting an amp inside of a subwoofer box is up there on the list of stupid things i've heard on this forum and I've there is a lot of stupid stuff here.


OP: I'm strongly advising against mounting the amp in the box. Your best bet is mounting to the back of the back seat on the left side so you maintain the folding ability. If that isn't possible, mount it to the box. I'd use rubber washers to absorb some of the vibrations no matter how big or small your subwoofer is.
Pioneer and alpine (only ones Ive used) do indeed have a LPF. Also why would you need to mess with tha gain on the amp?? Set it as high as it goes and adjust how much bass you want on your headunit if it has a dedicated sub input....wow man really..... Also there are several amps on the market that have a remote gain control.

As for your second bolded comment...... HAHA...no..... lemme guess you think a JL W7 is a beast right!?

As far as mounting it inside of a box being a stupid idea.... you know this from experience right!?..... thats what I thought.
Reguardless if you dont care about my past experiences or not, Ive been there done that and could really care less about that kinda stuff anymore. I do know that my old setup is still the loudest single sub setup Ive ever heard


Also its a shame to hear "amps are delicate computers" now. Like I said Ive moved on from that stuff a while ago and honestly havent seen any new amps since then. They did have electronics on/in them, and fans. But I really dont know whats out there anymore.
Heck my last amp was about $2200 and the sub it pushed was $1200..... that was alot of cash even by todays standards. Im sure the "good stuff" now is pretty sick, with a price tag to follow it as well....... The funny thing is I still have my very first amp, and it was used when I bought it.... an OLD punch 40w cheater amp...... Run it for 5 minutes and burn off all of your finger prints HAHA.


EDIT:

You're right, I wouldnt put an amp on the hatch, like you said it would be hard to hide any wires on exposed metal short of cutting a hole and running it internal for a short length..... I was just kind of justifying how it could be done...... everything said and done, it would be easiest to just mount it to the box some where...... or to the rear bumper
 

Last edited by CTS4MATION; 08-05-2012 at 03:38 AM.
  #17  
Old 08-05-2012, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by CTS4MATION View Post
Pioneer and alpine (only ones Ive used) do indeed have a LPF. Also why would you need to mess with tha gain on the amp?? Set it as high as it goes and adjust how much bass you want on your headunit if it has a dedicated sub input....wow man really..... Also there are several amps on the market that have a remote gain control.

As for your second bolded comment...... HAHA...no..... lemme guess you think a JL W7 is a beast right!?

As far as mounting it inside of a box being a stupid idea.... you know this from experience right!?..... thats what I thought.
Reguardless if you dont care about my past experiences or not, Ive been there done that and could really care less about that kinda stuff anymore. I do know that my old setup is still the loudest single sub setup Ive ever heard


Also its a shame to hear "amps are delicate computers" now. Like I said Ive moved on from that stuff a while ago and honestly havent seen any new amps since then. They did have electronics on/in them, and fans. But I really dont know whats out there anymore.
Heck my last amp was about $2200 and the sub it pushed was $1200..... that was alot of cash even by todays standards. Im sure the "good stuff" now is pretty sick, with a price tag to follow it as well....... The funny thing is I still have my very first amp, and it was used when I bought it.... an OLD punch 40w cheater amp...... Run it for 5 minutes and burn off all of your finger prints HAHA.
Set the gain as high as it goes? Yeah cause clipping is an awesome thing to have... Remote gain is available but not all amps have it. I have still yet to see an LPF built into a headunit for the subwoofer, but I'll take your word for it.

JL W7 is a nice subwoofer but it's overpriced. I can get a sub just as good for a fraction of the price with all the SPL and SQ.

No I've never mounted an amp inside a box and I don't ever plan on it. I don't like buying new amps unless I have to and I don't want to build a new box to compensate for the lost volume in the box. I could use polyfill but I don't want to pay for pillow stuffing. If mounting the amp inside a box was a good idea then everyone would be doing it.

As for your set up being "the loudest single sub setup [you've] ever heard", I know a few setups that would love to fix that for you.

Amps today can use a fraction of the voltage that old school amps do and put out double the power easily. There is an advantage to having them being delicate. They stay cool and efficient rather than being extremely hot, power hungry pigs.

I don't know why we continue this argument.. It's like a muscle vs tuner argument. We may never agree and that's that.
 
  #18  
Old 08-05-2012, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamy View Post
Set the gain as high as it goes? Yeah cause clipping is an awesome thing to have... Remote gain is available but not all amps have it. I have still yet to see an LPF built into a headunit for the subwoofer, but I'll take your word for it.

JL W7 is a nice subwoofer but it's overpriced. I can get a sub just as good for a fraction of the price with all the SPL and SQ.

No I've never mounted an amp inside a box and I don't ever plan on it. I don't like buying new amps unless I have to and I don't want to build a new box to compensate for the lost volume in the box. I could use polyfill but I don't want to pay for pillow stuffing. If mounting the amp inside a box was a good idea then everyone would be doing it.

As for your set up being "the loudest single sub setup [you've] ever heard", I know a few setups that would love to fix that for you.

Amps today can use a fraction of the voltage that old school amps do and put out double the power easily. There is an advantage to having them being delicate. They stay cool and efficient rather than being extremely hot, power hungry pigs.

I don't know why we continue this argument.. It's like a muscle vs tuner argument. We may never agree and that's that.
Grab a pioneer man, Its amazing the features they put into even their entry level headunit..... The last one I ran did everything but tickle your pickle, it was amazing.... and how you're saying about todays standards..... Heck those things were double the price of what you can get a touch screen unit for today LOL. Amaing how electronics hold NO value!
Spot on with the W7, I competed with them once (the first year they were out was 01 or 02) They WERE and im sure still are over priced but they did a good job, just like you said there are better options out there for a fraction of the price.

Well at the time it was the loudest in pa and the 2nd loudest in the country in my class. But hell I dont remember what class that actually was HAHA. Trust me I know there were and are louder. A buddy of mine used to compete with an older chevy blazer. He had 1 18" sub and used the entire interior (completely gutted with an "L" shape podium in the middle of it) as the box. I dont know HOW in the world it worked, but it did..... He was one of those guys that rolled the truck off the trailer with 12 batteries underneath, 2" bolted plexi windows, and concrete in all of the body and any other crevice. It was simply amazing.... back then he was in the 172db range.

Yea yesterdays technology was crap compaired to todays standards..... My last amp was 36" long and about 18" wide HAHA..... they could probably fit that power into a hockey puck now
 
  #19  
Old 08-05-2012, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by CTS4MATION View Post
Grab a pioneer man, Its amazing the features they put into even their entry level headunit..... The last one I ran did everything but tickle your pickle, it was amazing.... and how you're saying about todays standards..... Heck those things were double the price of what you can get a touch screen unit for today LOL. Amaing how electronics hold NO value!

Yea yesterdays technology was crap compaired to todays standards..... My last amp was 36" long and about 18" wide HAHA..... they could probably fit that power into a hockey puck now
Never got into the whole headunit thing other than the one alpine one I put in my mom's old truck. Usually had quality headunits OEM. I'm actually looking at one of the touchscreen pioneers right now but I like "go fast" over "look good" so that's on the back burner.

As for the "fit that power into a hockey puck"... Say hello to this 300 watt rms puppy
 
  #20  
Old 08-05-2012, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamy View Post
Never got into the whole headunit thing other than the one alpine one I put in my mom's old truck. Usually had quality headunits OEM. I'm actually looking at one of the touchscreen pioneers right now but I like "go fast" over "look good" so that's on the back burner.

As for the "fit that power into a hockey puck"... Say hello to this 300 watt rms puppy
LMAO!!! HAHA WOW, My old punch 40 was just a lil bigger than that, but it was a worked over cheater amp. The cross over was a hole in the bottom of it that had a circuit board that was removable..... one way was LPF take it out filp it upside down and you had HPF LOL. Heck I thought they stopped using the punch name a while back.

Yea I got out of audio and into speed.....

I still have a couple hondas but I have an old mustang for speed and a new cadillac for looks.....and to haul the family around
 

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