Nice run in the video above! And thanks for the cat information. I need to look more into that.


You mentioned something about getting lighter seats in the 'lightweight battery' thread. These are front seats right? What weight are they and what are the stock seat weights? Very interested in this. Thanks for any info.

 

From what I have read the front seats weight about 95lbs total. I'm looking into something that meets class (STF, 25lbs each min w/ mounting bracket). So I may do some carbon seats and add weight to the mounting brackets to be legal. That way in the future I can lighten them for other classes or forms of racing.

 

Hey roller how much lowered is your fit did you get just springs? if so what kind?

So are you thinking of going F.I?

 

I'm on full coil overs. I went with Ksport and stiffer spring rates then the stock kit. The car is low but not overly low since its for function. The front is lower then the rear.

I've been thinking either SC or K swap. It's a tough battle. K swap SC hahaha. Either way it'll be a while before I so a big power increase. I will be running STF class in SCCA for 2015 and possible dabbling in some Roadrace/time attack races for the hell of it. After 2015 I will decide to either pull the plug or stay with what I have.

 

What is your brake setup? I drive a lot and I want to upgrade my brakes I don't like the wobbly stop it has

 

Currently I have EBC yellow stuff pads and Ultimax rotors for the front and OE Honda shoes in the rear.

I may be switching to Winmax pads and shoes sometime in the year. Also with be doing some high temp fluid as well.

Overall the set-up now is great and has strong stopping power. I autoX often (2-4 events a month) and the rotors are wearing good.

 

I just got my Eibach Spring Pro kit today that I'll be installing Monday and I found Eline drilled slotted brake rotors with ceramic pads for $89.99 I might get that just to get a different feel for now and then upgrade later on.

 

Why throw away money now just to spend more later? If you need new rotors, just get a quality blank and some better quality pads, perhaps a fluid change as well. Those cheap slotted/drilled rotors aren't going to do anything great.

 

As domoMKIV mentioned this is true. Spending money twice is a waste. I spent about $230 on my set-up but well worth it. Remember I have race pads which are more expensive. Check this:

08 2008 Honda Fit Brake Rotor - Brake - ATE Premium One, Beck Arnley, Brembo, Brembo Coated, Centric, EBC, Original Equipment, Pronto, SBS, Ultra, Front, Front Left, Front Right - PartsGeek

They also have a the EBC Ultimax pads cheap too. Check out summit racing for some pads too but parts geek has the lowest price on the EBC Ultimax rotors (which I was told from EBC are the best ones). Keep in mind also that you can look up pads for a 2006 RSX base model and they are the same pads for the GD.

 

Been a minute since I updated this thread. Did a bunch of new things so I'll start posting up stuff.

Wrapped my aFe intake, intake plenum, and runners with DEI gld foil to hel reduce temperatures while racing.

 

Are you able to test the aluminum runner for heat after racing or commuting to see whether it lowers or raises the temp?

 

Unfortunately I never documented any temps. I wish I did but was so eager to wrap the intake. One thing I will be able to tell is by touching the runners if they are cooler. I will find out soon.

 

yes please let me know cause Im going to start a log up here on some temps verses ambient temps.

My plan is to coat them using a zirconium oxide and perhaps put a heat sink in between each runner but we will see how warm my base line gets first to see if it is worth the effort.

 

I thought about getting a Heat Shield product panel to cover the valve cover and possible run it over the head around the runner flange. That with a thermo gasket and the intake fully wrapped would have to make some type of difference.

The shitty part on SCCA running for STF class is that we cannot modify or add any type of hood scoops of cowls. Have a scoop by the wiper would help so much with flowing cool air and circulation into the engine bay. That would probably help increase actually numbers.

 

I've wrapped intercooler end tanks and air boxes before on other cars. It definitely makes a difference. Very smart mod.

 

So I measured the heat from one part of the runner (non-wrapped) to the other (wrapped). Wow whats a difference. There was roughly about a 25-35 degree difference.

 

Heres an update on my axle back that was custom made for the Fit by JSPFab.

Cut the MR mid-pipe end off (due to reduction 2 1/4" to 1 3/4") and made it a 2 1/4" end. The axle back is 2 1/4" piping which goes to 3" into the muffler end (muffler is 3" straight through) using a Coast Fab muffler.

 

Nice exhaust! Which part of the megan mid pipe has the restriction? I need a mid pipe myself. And i'd LOVE it if the WR race header would come back in stock!

The Ultra Racing bars look solid! If I get some they will be the ones I choose.

Good idea with the wrapping, I might give that a try too.

 

Thanks devmail.

On the MR mid pipe where the pipe connects to the axle back on the muffler. It tapers from 2.25" piping to a 1 3/4" connecter. They to this to fit the OE exhaust axle back. Later this year I will switching out the MR product with custom. It should cut the weight in half at least. We're thinking some 18-20 gauge steel.

The UR bars are great. You're going to want to drill out the mount holes in the front tower some. The bar will ft a 12mm bolt while the chassis has only room for a 10mm. Thats not big at all but nothing a drill can't solve.

The DEI wrap cut temps down upwards of 30 degrees.

 

Did an update on the specs. This thread is going to get some love soon.