cross drilled rotors!!!
#3
they arrive in less than a week!!!!!
they look awesome, and can't tell if they will last until next month when they meet the track!!! but they seem to be great quality...
#5
Some people said they'll crack in no time (if they do, I still have the factory ones, and I'll have my opinion based on experience). In theory they should work better. My concrern with heat is not that it will fade ( already prove they don't fade with the hawk pads), but the heat passing the other suspension parts, including the rims. I already saw all the colors available in the metal because of the heat. Just want to disperse the heat more efficiently.
i will see if they stop better in the next solo1, until then they are worth just for the looks ( tho I mostly buy car stuff for the performance benefits)
As of now, they feel the same as the OEM's and I work in the mountains.
And they shurely would look awesome in black
#8
As of now I can say "so far....so good"
It feels like braking better. On my way to and back from work (35 twisty mountain miles each side) I feel it better. But I bought them most for heat dissipation on the track......
I don't think I will make it to the next solo1, (money issues ), but if not onthe march 3&4 event, then will be in the next one.
#10
drilled rotors = bad
slotted = good
drilling a rotor severely compromises it's structural integrity and removes alot of material, slotting accomplishes the same thing (evacuating brake gasses) but does so without removing as much material (and it's arguable that even these arn't needed unless you use a track/race pad since most street/sporty pads dont gas up alot)
the thing is on a fit you wont really be going fast enough to push the braking system anyways so unless you are doing alot of 0-30-0-30 x infinity runs, nothing bad should happen ... in theory
slotted = good
drilling a rotor severely compromises it's structural integrity and removes alot of material, slotting accomplishes the same thing (evacuating brake gasses) but does so without removing as much material (and it's arguable that even these arn't needed unless you use a track/race pad since most street/sporty pads dont gas up alot)
the thing is on a fit you wont really be going fast enough to push the braking system anyways so unless you are doing alot of 0-30-0-30 x infinity runs, nothing bad should happen ... in theory
#11
drilled rotors = bad
slotted = good
drilling a rotor severely compromises it's structural integrity and removes alot of material, slotting accomplishes the same thing (evacuating brake gasses) but does so without removing as much material (and it's arguable that even these arn't needed unless you use a track/race pad since most street/sporty pads dont gas up alot)
the thing is on a fit you wont really be going fast enough to push the braking system anyways so unless you are doing alot of 0-30-0-30 x infinity runs, nothing bad should happen ... in theory
slotted = good
drilling a rotor severely compromises it's structural integrity and removes alot of material, slotting accomplishes the same thing (evacuating brake gasses) but does so without removing as much material (and it's arguable that even these arn't needed unless you use a track/race pad since most street/sporty pads dont gas up alot)
the thing is on a fit you wont really be going fast enough to push the braking system anyways so unless you are doing alot of 0-30-0-30 x infinity runs, nothing bad should happen ... in theory
I have had the same concerns that you state, but I badly need to dissipate heat, so I took the chance with them (in a worst case scenario they should last a few trak days at least), but you can order them sloted only.
I definitively will inspect them periodically, and in any sign of structural failure, I still have the oem's at home, and, if they work and break in about a year, then I won't hessitate to buy them again.
But is good to hear different points of view, as you can only learn from these forum disscusions.
#12
bigger rotors are there to keep your braking consistent-resist brake fade by managing the heat better. by drilling or slotting you're removing mass that would have been used to distribute this heat, and are then more prone to fade.
if you absolutely must get drilled rotors, get them with the "drilling" cast into them rather than those that have been drilled. if you push them even a little and they're drilled, you'll find cracks at the drill points.
if you want to stop faster, get more agressive, higher heat range pads and bigger calipers. while you're at that, swap your fluid for something that has a higher boiling point. buy plenty of it so you can flush out the old fluid.
i don't have the want or energy to give a treatise on braking dynamics. i'm still, after all, a novice of sorts. i've been in it and have seen what each mod does, though, so i can give some of you a bit of a jump start.
#13
you cannot cannot CANNOT improve your stopping distance by getting slotted and/or drilled rotors. rotor mass exists to dissapate heat. you can have 15" rotors with the same size calipers and all you'd do is stop in the same distance, time after time.
bigger rotors are there to keep your braking consistent-resist brake fade by managing the heat better. by drilling or slotting you're removing mass that would have been used to distribute this heat, and are then more prone to fade.
if you absolutely must get drilled rotors, get them with the "drilling" cast into them rather than those that have been drilled. if you push them even a little and they're drilled, you'll find cracks at the drill points.
if you want to stop faster, get more agressive, higher heat range pads and bigger calipers. while you're at that, swap your fluid for something that has a higher boiling point. buy plenty of it so you can flush out the old fluid.
i don't have the want or energy to give a treatise on braking dynamics. i'm still, after all, a novice of sorts. i've been in it and have seen what each mod does, though, so i can give some of you a bit of a jump start.
bigger rotors are there to keep your braking consistent-resist brake fade by managing the heat better. by drilling or slotting you're removing mass that would have been used to distribute this heat, and are then more prone to fade.
if you absolutely must get drilled rotors, get them with the "drilling" cast into them rather than those that have been drilled. if you push them even a little and they're drilled, you'll find cracks at the drill points.
if you want to stop faster, get more agressive, higher heat range pads and bigger calipers. while you're at that, swap your fluid for something that has a higher boiling point. buy plenty of it so you can flush out the old fluid.
i don't have the want or energy to give a treatise on braking dynamics. i'm still, after all, a novice of sorts. i've been in it and have seen what each mod does, though, so i can give some of you a bit of a jump start.
I agree.
What I mean when I say that I feel it better, is that I used to have a heat problem because I work at the mountains and on my way back from home I had a fade problem heat related.
I do resoved it by changing to hawk hps pads, but what I solve was the fade problem, but the heat was still there, and ir gets worst on the track.
In the track, I never suffer from fade, as I state in the aftermarket brake pads thread, "the hawk are awesome", but what I want to do with the drilled/sloted rotors is dissipate heat from the other suspension parts, you literaly could fire a cigarette on some rotors after a few hot laps.
So in theory, they should improve in that heat issue, and that is why I decided to thake a chance with them,and they were cheap, so, why not try.
Now, I have the oem pads, and only put the hawk to track, until the oems wear, then I will use only hawks or any other aftermarket performance pads I found cheap.
As of now, It works.
resuming. I never said that the fit reduced it's braking distance, wich by the way is excellent from the factory.
#15
instead of rotors like that, you should seriously consider grabbing some high temp ducting/hose and making brake ducts. look on iwsti.com and nasioc.com for what racecompengineering did for sti's. you could probably pull your fogs on race day and use those holes to feed the ducts. it's good for well over a 200f drop in temp on sti's, so i imagine the results would be similar on a fit if driven hard enough.
#16
instead of rotors like that, you should seriously consider grabbing some high temp ducting/hose and making brake ducts. look on iwsti.com and nasioc.com for what racecompengineering did for sti's. you could probably pull your fogs on race day and use those holes to feed the ducts. it's good for well over a 200f drop in temp on sti's, so i imagine the results would be similar on a fit if driven hard enough.
Ben sugest me the ducts a few months ago. It was put into consideration, tho not an option now.
It is my daily driven car, so I don't want to mess with the fender liners, plus don't want to tale the fogs out.
I will post the final review when I gp to the track, tho no money for the march 3-4 event (they required me in my log book braided brake lines + the event fees )
Thanks for your great Ideas. I hope that Fit freakers with similar projects can use all this ideas posted here!!!
I know I need lowering spring badly, but baby budget steps
#17
you cannot cannot CANNOT improve your stopping distance by getting slotted and/or drilled rotors. rotor mass exists to dissapate heat. you can have 15" rotors with the same size calipers and all you'd do is stop in the same distance, time after time.
bigger rotors are there to keep your braking consistent-resist brake fade by managing the heat better. by drilling or slotting you're removing mass that would have been used to distribute this heat, and are then more prone to fade.
if you absolutely must get drilled rotors, get them with the "drilling" cast into them rather than those that have been drilled. if you push them even a little and they're drilled, you'll find cracks at the drill points.
if you want to stop faster, get more agressive, higher heat range pads and bigger calipers. while you're at that, swap your fluid for something that has a higher boiling point. buy plenty of it so you can flush out the old fluid.
i don't have the want or energy to give a treatise on braking dynamics. i'm still, after all, a novice of sorts. i've been in it and have seen what each mod does, though, so i can give some of you a bit of a jump start.
bigger rotors are there to keep your braking consistent-resist brake fade by managing the heat better. by drilling or slotting you're removing mass that would have been used to distribute this heat, and are then more prone to fade.
if you absolutely must get drilled rotors, get them with the "drilling" cast into them rather than those that have been drilled. if you push them even a little and they're drilled, you'll find cracks at the drill points.
if you want to stop faster, get more agressive, higher heat range pads and bigger calipers. while you're at that, swap your fluid for something that has a higher boiling point. buy plenty of it so you can flush out the old fluid.
i don't have the want or energy to give a treatise on braking dynamics. i'm still, after all, a novice of sorts. i've been in it and have seen what each mod does, though, so i can give some of you a bit of a jump start.
#20
just a heads up mang... i had those kind of drilled rotors before on my car before and they rust after a while...so i would advice painting it... check out the pic n see da rust areas... i guess those areas should be painted to prevent lookin like this...
as for performance nothing really changed, its just for looks i think
as for performance nothing really changed, its just for looks i think
Last edited by sirhc; 03-20-2007 at 11:29 PM.