Skunk2 Spings + Install
Skunk2 Spings + Install
Hi guys
i just got a silver fit like 2 weeks ago and just ordered some skunk2 springs from jhpusa.com. should be coming in soon. my question is when i look at the front top shock mount there is only on nut and a big rubber thing on top. Do i jus take off the one nut in the middle and thats it for the top? or is there more under the big rubber thing? i hope i make some sense because i plan on installing the springs this weekend
thanks guys
any links would help thanks
i just got a silver fit like 2 weeks ago and just ordered some skunk2 springs from jhpusa.com. should be coming in soon. my question is when i look at the front top shock mount there is only on nut and a big rubber thing on top. Do i jus take off the one nut in the middle and thats it for the top? or is there more under the big rubber thing? i hope i make some sense because i plan on installing the springs this weekend
thanks guys
any links would help thanks
Nevermind i found the link. How To: Install Skunk2 Lowering Springs for Honda Fit
so how is the ride with the skunk2 springs? I called shox.com and they said the tokico HP should be coming out in a week or two. would the tokico hp handle the skunk2 spring rate and drop?
thanks guys
Le
so how is the ride with the skunk2 springs? I called shox.com and they said the tokico HP should be coming out in a week or two. would the tokico hp handle the skunk2 spring rate and drop?
thanks guys
Le
I'd like to add a few things to your post for those who are looking to install springs and use the above mentioned link as a guide.
First off the front springs need to have the writing upside down in order for them to fit properly into their baskets on the strut. (contrary to what the image shows).
Second the springs on the rears are oriented with the writing right side up so you can read the letters/numbers and the bunched coils near the top.
Third the bumpstop is in the rubber shroud on the strut, just compress the accordian (rubber) and you'll see the bumpstop...just yank it out, takes a little force to get it out. Once out cut off the small end, not the large end which mounts inside the rubber shroud.
Fourth, I don't know how people can do this with one person...yanking the rear springs out with bare hands is VERY difficult for someone with a small build. A pry bar is "almost" neccessary...
Fifth, Here's my solution to not having the axle pop out...use a plank of wood...preferably a 2x4 or something of that size. Put two lug nuts on the lugs (so as not to damage threads) Use a hydralic jack to put a bit of pressure on the lugs with the lugnuts. That way when you yank the strut out, the rotor and that whole assembly won't move.
Sixth, Make sure everything is tight...It wouldn't hurt to take your car after it has been lowered around the block for 5 mins and come back and tighten everything down again...only takes a second and everything is still fresh in your memory. The nut on the tie rod came loose on me and I had to trouble shoot it....just needed to be sinched down again.
And...I think that's about it...It was a fun learning experience and i'd never pay anyone to do that. The drop on the skunks is the hawtness for anyone who's wondering.
First off the front springs need to have the writing upside down in order for them to fit properly into their baskets on the strut. (contrary to what the image shows).
Second the springs on the rears are oriented with the writing right side up so you can read the letters/numbers and the bunched coils near the top.
Third the bumpstop is in the rubber shroud on the strut, just compress the accordian (rubber) and you'll see the bumpstop...just yank it out, takes a little force to get it out. Once out cut off the small end, not the large end which mounts inside the rubber shroud.
Fourth, I don't know how people can do this with one person...yanking the rear springs out with bare hands is VERY difficult for someone with a small build. A pry bar is "almost" neccessary...
Fifth, Here's my solution to not having the axle pop out...use a plank of wood...preferably a 2x4 or something of that size. Put two lug nuts on the lugs (so as not to damage threads) Use a hydralic jack to put a bit of pressure on the lugs with the lugnuts. That way when you yank the strut out, the rotor and that whole assembly won't move.
Sixth, Make sure everything is tight...It wouldn't hurt to take your car after it has been lowered around the block for 5 mins and come back and tighten everything down again...only takes a second and everything is still fresh in your memory. The nut on the tie rod came loose on me and I had to trouble shoot it....just needed to be sinched down again.
And...I think that's about it...It was a fun learning experience and i'd never pay anyone to do that. The drop on the skunks is the hawtness for anyone who's wondering.
no, do not use a prybar! you will bend the torsion beam. all you need
to do is remove BOTH shock bottom bolts. you have to do the rear in
a pair, not one side at a time. the springs will literally fall out on its
own.
when you put it back together, use your jack to raise the torsion
beam on one side (just lift under the drum brake) while you align
and install both rear springs.
then put the weight of the car on the shock and torque up the
bolt to 40lbs/ft.
Last edited by kenchan; Jun 23, 2008 at 07:33 AM. Reason: torque is 40lb/ft on the rear shock bolt.
really? i had them right side up and they installed fine......would there be any difference, if they fit anyway? i remember mounting their rears upside down, with the close-coils on the bottom rather than the top. i guess it wouldn't matter. they would resist compression at the same rate either way, wouldn't they?
really? i had them right side up and they installed fine......would there be any difference, if they fit anyway? i remember mounting their rears upside down, with the close-coils on the bottom rather than the top. i guess it wouldn't matter. they would resist compression at the same rate either way, wouldn't they?
Do you have skunk2s? I know other springs mount with the close coils on the bottom...I believe progressive's do. And as far as the writing on the fronts...It is a possiblity that skunk2 had them printed differently in different stages of production...but it was literally impossible for me to fit those front springs in the basket/guide with the writing right side up, I came close to breaking the tabs, then i flipped them around so they were upside down and it fit like a glove.
Do you have skunk2s? I know other springs mount with the close coils on the bottom...I believe progressive's do. And as far as the writing on the fronts...It is a possiblity that skunk2 had them printed differently in different stages of production...but it was literally impossible for me to fit those front springs in the basket/guide with the writing right side up, I came close to breaking the tabs, then i flipped them around so they were upside down and it fit like a glove.
-e
i sold my dSLR a couple of months ago. i need to schedule a buddy of mine for a nice shoot! he's got a nice silver GTI, so it should be pretty good. i'll try and get it done soon.
Did you get it figured out? There are alot of posts regarding the pop out...the trick is not freaking out...maybe take a break and don't sweat it. Come back and play with it and it'll pop back into place.
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