Hi everyone,

This is my first post in the forum. I've been lurking for a while and have searched the site but I haven't found much about uneven brake pad wear. I've used the search button and found some threads that say "I've read threads where some fit owners have extremely uneven pad wear" but I've been unable to find those.

Anyways, I have an '07 fit, automatic, with ~58,000 km's (36,000 miles) and my rotors must be slightly warped because they shudder/pulse during high speed braking. And just recently my pads started making the "replacement indicator noise" so I checked the pads. The inner pads (side with the piston) is down to the wear indicator while the outer pads look like they're still brand new. What causes this? Is it due to the warped rotors? Or is it because it only has a piston on the one side?

Also, I hear the replacement indicator noise even when I'm not on the brakes and just coasting. So I'm assuming the pads are rubbing the rotor all the time. This can't be good and is there anything that can easily be done about it?

As a result, I want to get rid of this problem for obvious reasons. Since I'll likely need to replace the rotors I figure I'll install some aftermarket rotors and pads. I don't race around or brake hard but its nice to have better stopping power if and when its needed.

So basically I'm just wondering why the pads wear unevenly and why the pads would be constantly rubbing. Thanks.

 

low brake fluid?

 

Most cars with single piston, sliding caliper design, the inner pads seems to wear faster than the outside.
As for your constant rubbing I would check if your brake caliper/piston is getting hung up and not retracting away from the rotor when off the brakes.
Might want to check it on your next brake job.

 

The brake fluid is low. Maybe the fluid's so low it doesn't create enough pressure to get the caliper to slide over for the second pad? But my braking power doesn't seem to be any worse by using only the 1 pad per tire. It still stops on a dime.

Well I'm going in for my B1 maintenance on Friday. The car's under 60,000 km so they (Honda dealer) said they will machine the rotors for free and take a look at the calipers. I'm assuming the sliders are seized and they'll replace the calipers for OEM ones. I guess its a partial fix because this will probably happen again in 50,000 km seeing that a lot of people have problems with the OEM brakes.

I'll probably replace the rotors, calipers and pads for aftermarket stuff when the warranty is up at 130,000 km.

 

:werd: the newer accords are affected. there's a service bulletin for uneven pad wear.

 

I also experienced this similar problem. The pad on the inside was worn down more than the pad on the outside. This last weekend my friend installed new pads and I took a picture of the worn pads. I was also told that the reason behind this problem had to do with the piston. The pad on the left is obviously the one on the inside

 

The shudder when braking at high speed is caused by the anti lock braking system doing it's thing... The piston applies pressure to the outside pads so they wear out faster... Both of these things are perfectly normal.

 

Might need to take a closer look at the 'shudder'. What do you mean by high speed. If the braking force is not at an emergency pressure it could very well be a warped rotor. The ABS feel is rather distinctive and mechanical in nature.

The 'uneven' wear is not at all unusual as Coyote points out. The low fluid can be attributed to the break wear. Good thing is it's going in for service. Honda will turn the rotors if they can maintain the spec on them, or replace them. At your mileage I'm sure Honda has a good idea that they'll turn just fine. They will also confirm the slide action of the calipers. No reason it shouldn't come out as good as new, at least the brakes.LOL

K_C_

 

I forgot to update what happened so here it goes.

I know the distinctive ABS feeling and it wasn't that. The rotors were definitely warped. They were resurfaced for free since they were still under warranty.

My pads looked exactly like pinkladies. The mechanics looked at the calipers and said nothing was seized which surprised me because I don't understand how you get such uneven wear without something being seized. The only thing that makes logical sense to me is the sliders seizing or being so stiff they're essentially useless. Heck, the piston was strong enough to create enough pressure to stop the car on a dime with the one side doing all the work so I assume they'd be strong enough to move the sliders too. Besides, that's what they're designed for. For all I know they might have been lying in an attempt to avoid replacing them under warranty. Oh well I guess I'll never know.

The dealer also gave me free pads due to the uneven wear and my complaining.

So in the end I got resurfaced rotors and new pads for free. They feel like new again. The dealer didn't charge me for any of the brake work actually. I guess that'll take me another 30,000+ km before the pads need replacing again. At that point I'll either replace the whole front system with something substantial or just keep replacing the pads as they wear unevenly. The latter's a lot cheaper.

 

Respectfully It's a long jump to accuse someone who fixes your car of lying. It continues to amaze me how quick folks are to bash dealer service techs. In my years of experience I have come across all sorts of people who want only to take advantage of me. As far as having my car serviced, dealers have been the most reliable of the lot. I have encountered some great independents and have lost their service because of my relocating.

I service my own cars for two reasons. First is that I enjoy doing it and second I can save money - not trusting others isn't high on the list. The older I get the less I 'enjoy' it, but I'm now driving a brand new Honda so there wont be much for me to do.

I guess what strikes me is how quick you've been to put down the folks who fixed your car, when they did it all for free. From your questions/observations it appears you don't have a clear understanding of brake systems and really need to rely on others for your service.

As has been said elsewhere in these forums, building a positive relationship with those whom you pay to help you is of the utmost importance. Next is having a clear understanding of the scope of the problem so you can informatively discuss it with the tech and respect those who can fix it.

_If you decide you want to learn how to do a brake job you are certainly in the right place. Many here [myself included] are more than happy to help you diagnose and fix problems.

I am glad you were able to get a free brake job. Out of curiosity did they check the rears? I'm wondering how the rear shoes hold up at the mileage you wore out the front pads.

K_C_

 

Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against the dealer and I'm not accusing them of anything. It's just an assumption, nothing more. I guess my post came off a little harsher than I meant it to be. I actually love the dealer I go to and always have them service it because I know it'll be done right and they're really friendly.

I guess I've become more cynical the older I get. I'm in the financial industry where its always CYA and buyer beware, maybe that's why.

I never checked the rear brakes. I have no experience with drum brakes so I'm not totally sure what to do in that respect. I could always youtube it but the dealer checks them on the scheduled service anyways.

I'm like you in the respect that I do all my own maintenance on my motorcycles and I really enjoy it. But for some reason I'm just not a fan of working on my cars so I take it to the dealer for all scheduled maintenance. Maybe its because bikes are so much simpler nowadays.

Anyways, thanks for the info Krimson. I hope I didn't offend you or anyone else in the industry. It wasn't my intention.

 

 

I had bankers and lawyers as customers when I was in the bicycle business.... They were always bitching but always came back.

 

Rear drums should last over 100k miles, and should retain proper adjustment as long as you regularly use your parking brake.

 

When I do my own brakes, I coat the caliper pins with a high temperature anti-seize compound…that seems to balance out the ware between the piston side pad with the outside pad…there still is some uneven ware, but not nearly as much.

Here is a very good article about what you are incorrectly calling warped discs.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

I have an ’07 Sport with AT and I had 3 sets of from rotors replaced under warranty…I got sick of that and replace the front discs with Integra Type-R front disc brakes. Search this site for my DIY for “Integra Type-R” or go look at my profile albums…I’ve got lots of good information there on brakes and suspension mods.

 

Jodele thanks for a most informative article. Glad to see the importance of the break-in procedure explained. Many misunderstand this or miss it completely.

Brakes are not the simple DIY many believe.

 

That article was great Jodele, nice find.

I've seen the integra disc thread, its great. I was thinking of doing that before I took the car in, but since my outcome was fantastic and the brakes are like new again I'll likely be waiting a while before doing it.

 

No matter how much of my knowledge I share with others, I don’t lose any of it…
Doing it all for + points here…glad to help!

 

I am very easy on brakes and clutches but I am going to move move my brake pads from left to right and right to left with the inside and outside pads on the opposite sides the next time I rotate my tires. I have done it before on a motorcycle with twin disk on the front wheel.... Brembo pads for a BMW are very costly.

 

I'm glad to have found this, I am about to replace my rotors for the second time, I have an 08 with 148K on it. I've had the same wear problems since day one and I want to replace the calipers next. Now I'm off to read Jodele's article....