I was reading up on how to bleed brakes to see if I can do it when I do my brake upgrade. I was always told that when you bleed brakes you start farthest away from the master cylinder and work your way up. So the process would be RR, LR, FR and FL. Well when I was looking at the Fit manual it says go FL, FR, RR and RL. That thought was kind of weird. Does it really not matter what order you bleed the brakes?

 

For one thing, while the reservoir is on the left side, the actual brake module is on the right side (at least on an M/T Fit). On top of that, the piping might be extended for certain directions (it could run to the middle of the car, before returning to the same side). So the order could be based on starting from the shortest pipe to the longest.

Personally, I'm not too sure it matters which order. The whole thing is about compression of air and trying to get rid of it.

 

well the idea is to start the farthest away from the brake reservoir and work your way closer to get as much air out of the system.

 

quote from random googled site

incidentally, air in the tube, is still air in the tube. doesn't matter which one you start with, they all have air in them.

Any method that involves pumping the brakes would introduce the likelyhood of mixing old and new fluids. And that would mean that the first line you work on, would have the least amount of potential mixing.

Personally, I rather just do the "gravity" method. open up a bleeder, let the fluid flow... and close it once you get clear fresh fluid. Then move to the next wheel. This way, it won't matter which order you go with. You're not pumping, so therefore, you're not mixing.

 

im looking to get a new calipers for the front and the rear disc conversion with braided lines all around. At that point i think it might be best to just flush the system and put all new fluid in

 

I've actually been toying with a similar idea... not just new calipers, but bigger rotors in front along with disc rear and braids. But the likely hood of me actually doing it is pretty slim. Mostly because I can't really justify it for any practical purpose. I just don't push the Fit that hard.

Though, after tonight's little wander about... I am more inclined to replace my pads. They're still pretty thick, but at one point (I hadn't realized how close I was to the traffic lights), the brakes felt a little... light. At the speed I was going and the distance I had to brake, I was SURE the abs would kick in... but it didn't, and I overshot the stop a few feet (no traffic).

 

There is a specific order in the Fit Owner's Manual, but I forget what it is. I just gravity bled mine when I upgraded my pads and rotors.

 

I mentioned the order that was in the Fit service manual. Now I dont see why you would need to bleed the brakes when you only replace the pads and rotors but what is the gravity bleed route?

 

Im not near my shop manual and cant remember how I did it when I put the Motul fluid in, but I also recall that some cars require the engine is on to put vacuum to the brake booster.. I forget if the Fit is one of them.

So, that was not especially helpful but best of luck

It's been one of those mornings.

 

Sorry,w as late didn't comprehend that I guess. I always change brake fluid when doing pad or rotor work basically. However, my Fit gets tracked quite a bit so I feel it is cheap insurance. I was changing my fluid out to ATE Super Blue.

Gravity bleeding is simply connecting a waste line to the bleeder valve that runs into a bucket, etc. and then opening the bleeder and keeping the brake fluid reservoir full. When the bleed line runs with clean, new fluid and looks good, close it up. Then move on the to the next one with the same process.

Make sure the reservoir does not go empty, it will introduce air bubbles and you will have to start all over again.

 

Just like a proper clutch bleed

 

Ok that makes sense as to why you would bleed the brakes when you change pads and rotors.

For the most part I under stand the gravity bleed, but just for clarification. You would have someone pump the brakes while you do this or does it just run out?

 

no pumping.

the force of gravity... forces the fluid to flow, since the reservoir is higher up.

The major disadvantage though, is that its a slower process.

 

i guess that makes sense, thus the name gravity bleeding, lol. Thanks guys for all the info, im feeling 100% I can tackle this job. Now I just need to get my refund so I can order my brake kit