Lowering, the cut theory
#1
03-26-2012, 09:46 PM
Lowering, the cut theory
Well guys to sum it up i did not want the swift springs as they only come down about an inch. I would entertain modifying them but there is a cheaper alternative.
After Installing the eibach pro kit with the full 2" front and 2.2" rear drop i have to say never in my 9 years of lowering cars have never felt such a rigged wheelbarrow like ride. Im convinced they blew my rear struts as well. The swifts run a few hundred and the eibach springs if you shop around are about $180 right now. I wont even cover the prices of coilovers. This method total cost $98.50 and im about 1/4" to 1/2" lower than the eibach kit and it rides like incredibly smooth.
The problem with cutting fit springs is they are tapered in at the top & bottom so aside from the cut they need to be heated up and rewound as seen below. Note how only 1 side needs to be cut and i suggest you make it the top. Although some crafty home mechanics with a heavy duty vise, torch and balls can do this i would recommend handing it over to the professionals. In my town we have Mc Brides springs co. any spring and suspension shop will be able to take on yours it helps if you find one that deals in commercial repair and modification though epically if you can find some old timers familiar with cutting techniques and variable spring rates.
I told them to make my cuts on the heavy side of 2-2.5" and ended up with just that.
At the following measurements i can vouch it does not bottom out.
After Installing the eibach pro kit with the full 2" front and 2.2" rear drop i have to say never in my 9 years of lowering cars have never felt such a rigged wheelbarrow like ride. Im convinced they blew my rear struts as well. The swifts run a few hundred and the eibach springs if you shop around are about $180 right now. I wont even cover the prices of coilovers. This method total cost $98.50 and im about 1/4" to 1/2" lower than the eibach kit and it rides like incredibly smooth.
The problem with cutting fit springs is they are tapered in at the top & bottom so aside from the cut they need to be heated up and rewound as seen below. Note how only 1 side needs to be cut and i suggest you make it the top. Although some crafty home mechanics with a heavy duty vise, torch and balls can do this i would recommend handing it over to the professionals. In my town we have Mc Brides springs co. any spring and suspension shop will be able to take on yours it helps if you find one that deals in commercial repair and modification though epically if you can find some old timers familiar with cutting techniques and variable spring rates.
I told them to make my cuts on the heavy side of 2-2.5" and ended up with just that.
At the following measurements i can vouch it does not bottom out.
Last edited by ModR; 03-26-2012 at 09:54 PM.
#2
03-26-2012, 09:53 PM
Heres an overview
REARB4
REARAFTER
FRONTB4
FRONTAFTER
CARB4
CARAFTER
overall i am verry pleased i wish i had gone further down on the front but gravity and time should help with that.
***********Total cost Under $100******************
REARB4
REARAFTER
FRONTB4
FRONTAFTER
CARB4
CARAFTER
overall i am verry pleased i wish i had gone further down on the front but gravity and time should help with that.
***********Total cost Under $100******************
#5
03-27-2012, 09:25 AM
If you can settle for a swift 1" drop (
) more power to you.If you can shell out a few hundie to use a different setup great!!
and to clarify i replaced eibach 2"+ drop springs with modified stock springs.
#6
03-27-2012, 09:35 AM
Ok but the problem with that is that now all your springs have different rates now. No human could ever heat and cut in the exact same position on a spring. I know they did this in the old days but that was because there wasn't any companies selling stuff to modify your car.
#8
03-27-2012, 10:07 AM
Lol you guys take it like monkeys attacked the springs with a angle grinder. The truth is your right they will never be 100% exactley the same rate. However when lined up the cuts were dead even as were the re-wound areas. They ride great far better than the ebiachs that are designed to perform and fall horribly short. They feel even to me and that's the measurement that counts in the end.
If anyone can cut springs right, its the people I used. Arguing the state of craftsmanship here is arguing there 40+ years in this bussiness. They can compress and measure spring rates, they can and do cut springs from rolls of metal. They have done it every day for 40 years.
If anyone can cut springs right, its the people I used. Arguing the state of craftsmanship here is arguing there 40+ years in this bussiness. They can compress and measure spring rates, they can and do cut springs from rolls of metal. They have done it every day for 40 years.
#12
03-27-2012, 10:58 AM
i don't think they're talking about 1 or 2%... i think they're talking a much wider margin of error on that one unless you're using a very accurate oven and heating each one the same amount of time... and not using a torch...
the eibachs have a higher spring rate which will accelerate the wear on the struts... it's been fairly well documented all over the place that nearly all the time, when replacing springs with lowering springs w/ higher spring rates, you'll need higher performance struts to go with it...
but have YOU been doing it for 40+ years?
i don't think anyone is arguing how major manufacturers make springs... i think we're arguing the safety of a guy doing it in his garage with a torch and a vice...
the issue with heating metal with a torch is that you're creating hot spots in the metal that will decrease the strength of the spring, and, in all likelyhood, in one place... this means that the spring now has one defined weak point to break, should it decide to do so...
with that stock spring rate and with that small distance of travel, you will be riding the bump stops quite a bit on bumps...
people have been cutting springs for a long time... many have been able to get away with it, some haven't... if all you're going for is look, then enjoy and i hope it doesn't fail... but they will not perform better than the swifts on stock struts, or on eibachs with aftermarket struts...
They ride great far better than the ebiachs that are designed to perform and fall horribly short.
Arguing the state of craftsmanship here is arguing there 40+ years in this bussiness. They can compress and measure spring rates, they can and do cut springs from rolls of metal. They have done it every day for 40 years.
i don't think anyone is arguing how major manufacturers make springs... i think we're arguing the safety of a guy doing it in his garage with a torch and a vice...
the issue with heating metal with a torch is that you're creating hot spots in the metal that will decrease the strength of the spring, and, in all likelyhood, in one place... this means that the spring now has one defined weak point to break, should it decide to do so...
with that stock spring rate and with that small distance of travel, you will be riding the bump stops quite a bit on bumps...
people have been cutting springs for a long time... many have been able to get away with it, some haven't... if all you're going for is look, then enjoy and i hope it doesn't fail... but they will not perform better than the swifts on stock struts, or on eibachs with aftermarket struts...
#14
03-27-2012, 12:57 PM
i don't think they're talking about 1 or 2%... i think they're talking a much wider margin of error on that one unless you're using a very accurate oven and heating each one the same amount of time... and not using a torch...
*** *im shure im within 5-10% max.
the eibachs have a higher spring rate which will accelerate the wear on the struts... it's been fairly well documented all over the place that nearly all the time, when replacing springs with lowering springs w/ higher spring rates, you'll need higher performance struts to go with it...
*** *according to every one here these struts do not exist promoting me ditching the eibach units and modifying oems.
but have YOU been doing it for 40+ years?
****no notice how I hired & recommend professionals but state someone with a torch vise & balls can do it.
the issue with heating metal with a torch is that you're creating hot spots in the metal that will decrease the strength of the spring, and, in all likelyhood, in one place... this means that the spring now has one defined weak point to break, should it decide to do so.
**** *good thing monkeys did not go at mine with a torch & im shure I am in zero danger
with that stock spring rate and with that small distance of travel, you will be riding the bump stops quite a bit on bumps...
****feels like im riding on butter bud and that's why they have been trimmed to thee eibach specs to begin with and an additional 1/2" just to play it safe and there is plenty of clearance.
people have been cutting springs for a long time... many have been able to get away with it, some haven't... if all you're going for is look, then enjoy and i hope it doesn't fail... but they will not perform better than the swifts on stock struts, or on eibachs with aftermarket struts...
*** *im shure im within 5-10% max.
the eibachs have a higher spring rate which will accelerate the wear on the struts... it's been fairly well documented all over the place that nearly all the time, when replacing springs with lowering springs w/ higher spring rates, you'll need higher performance struts to go with it...
*** *according to every one here these struts do not exist promoting me ditching the eibach units and modifying oems.
but have YOU been doing it for 40+ years?
****no notice how I hired & recommend professionals but state someone with a torch vise & balls can do it.
the issue with heating metal with a torch is that you're creating hot spots in the metal that will decrease the strength of the spring, and, in all likelyhood, in one place... this means that the spring now has one defined weak point to break, should it decide to do so.
**** *good thing monkeys did not go at mine with a torch & im shure I am in zero danger
with that stock spring rate and with that small distance of travel, you will be riding the bump stops quite a bit on bumps...
****feels like im riding on butter bud and that's why they have been trimmed to thee eibach specs to begin with and an additional 1/2" just to play it safe and there is plenty of clearance.
people have been cutting springs for a long time... many have been able to get away with it, some haven't... if all you're going for is look, then enjoy and i hope it doesn't fail... but they will not perform better than the swifts on stock struts, or on eibachs with aftermarket struts...
Last edited by ModR; 03-27-2012 at 01:05 PM.
#15
03-27-2012, 01:01 PM
Usually cars that are smooth over bumps arnt that good when you show them some turns. (this excludes cars with electronically controlled or variable suspensions which i don't think the Fit has)
#16
03-27-2012, 01:14 PM
I know you guys think I don't understand what your saying.
The problem is rather you don't understand what I do.
Because there is no strut avaible to dampen a lowered fit I am going to create one as stated above.
My fronts tested and looked perfect. I belive the eibachs blew out the rears.
Now that I have springs that allow for travel these struts will be allowed to dampen.
I can work out the dampen heigths later.
This has all been done before. It will be done again and I will continue to show you all
How to think outside the box. Hate it or love it pick it apart bash it does not really matter. Im sitting 2.5" lower riding like a cloud for under $100.
Argue that.
#18
03-27-2012, 02:03 PM
We shall see krunk13 we shall see.....
The rears have been blown for quite a while from my eibach units and im already completley impressed with the rear performance. With new struts espically ones designed to dampen at the lowered level I can only imagine how much better the ride can get. The fronts work perfectley were cleaned and dampen correctley when tested.
But time will tell......
The rears have been blown for quite a while from my eibach units and im already completley impressed with the rear performance. With new struts espically ones designed to dampen at the lowered level I can only imagine how much better the ride can get. The fronts work perfectley were cleaned and dampen correctley when tested.
But time will tell......
#20
04-21-2012, 06:53 PM
well folks its been about a month so i thought i might check back in.
getting rid of those eibachs was the best thing i could have done.
Even with what i thought was 2 blown rear struts just changing to "my" springs made a world of difference even with a leaking rear strut
earlier in april i was getting around to getting some struts to do a write up on how to modify oem struts to work as intended, lowered!
Then something very interesting happened, and i am going to put this system to a test!
I went to the dealer on April 7th for a routine oil change(was at just under 15k miles still had 1 free change left) and they said, :your rear right strut is blown, you would not know anything about that would you?
" no clue why?"
:well its leaking so were going to go ahead and replace it under warranty.
"ok"
The ride just keeps getting better. it rides alot like my prelude rode on progress springs back in the day.
The front sturts still leak-less and damp-er-ey!
I am incredibly impressed!
getting rid of those eibachs was the best thing i could have done.
Even with what i thought was 2 blown rear struts just changing to "my" springs made a world of difference even with a leaking rear strut
earlier in april i was getting around to getting some struts to do a write up on how to modify oem struts to work as intended, lowered!
Then something very interesting happened, and i am going to put this system to a test!
I went to the dealer on April 7th for a routine oil change(was at just under 15k miles still had 1 free change left) and they said, :your rear right strut is blown, you would not know anything about that would you?
" no clue why?":well its leaking so were going to go ahead and replace it under warranty.
"ok"The ride just keeps getting better. it rides alot like my prelude rode on progress springs back in the day.
The front sturts still leak-less and damp-er-ey!
I am incredibly impressed!