Good deal, and GREAT idea!!

 

door guards. but this goes along my fenders aswell.

piece of some kinda material that goes along my fender and the doors to protect it if i hit something with the door.

 

I'm guessing these are sold separately. I think I've seen the door guards at dealerships (granted they were of a cheap plastic variety) but I've never seen the fender guards. I'll have to look into it.

Another thing I was thinking was that I might use pliers instead of a bat/rubber mallet to try and slowly bend the fender lip piece by piece after heating it up. Any opinions on this method are welcome - owning a new car is crazy.

 

Pliers don't contact enough of the metal at one time. You'll end up with wrinkles between spots. It's best to use something to roll across the metal like the Eastwood roller or a baseball bat.

 

I dont thing that would used pliers. But I did used a rubber mallet last weekend on mine and had a great sucsess at it.
Most important was heat gun... Good luck.

 

What do you guys do about the rear rubbing though? I rolled all the metal in the back but still rub on big bumps. Is it the bumper that's rubbing now or that screw and plastic piece?
Also for the front, there's nothing you can really roll so do you guys just take out the tabs and pull the fender a bit? Or does that screw it up where you can't use the fender liner anymore? I just want the rubbing to stop.

 

Just a tip, not sure if it works on the north american fits, but sometimes the rub is from the washer used on the bolt connecting the rear bumper. It sticks out a bit, so you may want to grind it flush with the fender.

Hope that helps!

 

Like he said you must shave that screw off that hold the bumper to the fender.
And for yes push the liner over the lip

Good luck

 

Man, am I paranoid about all this.

Heat gun I've got. But the general idea is to try and do everything fluidly, yes? For example: heat up the entire lip as much as allowable, then roll and apply heat as you go?

I know this isn't exactly rocket science.. But, uh.. I don't wanna hurt my baby. :P

 

One item most fender rollers fail to take into account is rust protection. Before you roll, coat the inside of the inner lip liberally with 'tar' like anti-corrosion gunk. When you roll the lip it will break the undercoatr and expose the metal to salt corosion if you live above the Mason-Dixon line. And perhaps below.
Thats from experience with rolling hundreds of fenders for customers After the first couple we learned to have customer 'sign-off' on subsequent damages or loss of resale value, too.

 

Anybody know what the tool cost cause if its not to bad i will buy it and then make my money back rolling fenders on the side. Hell if thats all i got to do to get the 16x8 smortmax wheels to fit then its worth it

 

It is $250 plus shipping from Easwood. A fellow Fitfreaker has offered to send his out for a small fee in the group buy section, but it hasn't generated a lot of interest.

 

thanks I will be buying one soon. Will post pics as soon as I fugure out a whats a good digi for cheap

 

I have used the baseball bat method, except I didn't use a heat gun. I just popped the bat in the well, lowere the jack back down and slowly spun the wheel and it just kinda eased through the motions. I haven't rolled the fit, as it isn't rubbing with H&R sport springs and OEM rims.