my stock tires
#2
The more important question is whether the 15x6.5" wheels have the correct offset, hub bore, BC, and caliper clearance.
cheers.
#4
The stock wheel is 15x6", meaning the rim is 15" in diameter, measured at the base of the rim, not the flange, and 6" across inside the flange. Its where the tire seats on the wheel.
The bolt circle is 4 lugs 90 degrees apart on a 100 mm circle. Stock offset is 55 mm set out (meaning wheel hub is outboard of the car hub face); and the hub bore is 64 mm.
Clearance around the caliper is not a spec, you'll just have to find out yourself, usually by mounting just the wheel on the hub and bolting just as you would if it had a tire. Allow at least 1/8" all round even with wheel turned fully left and right. There are other things than the caliper to avoid. Especially if a tire was mounted, like a strut or trailing link. For stock tires it should be OK. And if you just want to widen the car consider wheel spacers from your local auto parts places at about $25. One quater-inch (6mm) spacers will move the wheels outward (track width)by half-inch, improving looks, and cornering, at little cost. Just make sure you get at least 7 turns on the lugbolts with spacers.
You can reduce offset to as little as 42 mm if youre not lowered, or to 45 mm if you are dropped no more than 1.5"
Good luck.
Last edited by mahout; 08-29-2008 at 08:09 AM.
#7
The stock wheel is 15x6", meaning the rim is 15" in diameter, measured at the base of the rim, not the flange, and 6" across inside the flange. Its where the tire seats on the wheel.
The bolt circle is 4 lugs 90 degrees apart on a 100 mm circle. Stock offset is 55 mm set out (meaning wheel hub is outboard of the car hub face); and the hub bore is 64 mm.
Clearance around the caliper is not a spec, you'll just have to find out yourself, usually by mounting just the wheel on the hub and bolting just as you would if it had a tire. Allow at least 1/8" all round even with wheel turned fully left and right. There are other things than the caliper to avoid. Especially if a tire was mounted, like a strut or trailing link. For stock tires it should be OK. And if you just want to widen the car consider wheel spacers from your local auto parts places at about $25. One quater-inch (6mm) spacers will move the wheels outward (track width)by half-inch, improving looks, and cornering, at little cost. Just make sure you get at least 7 turns on the lugbolts with spacers.
You can reduce offset to as little as 42 mm if youre not lowered, or to 45 mm if you are dropped no more than 1.5"
Good luck.
The bolt circle is 4 lugs 90 degrees apart on a 100 mm circle. Stock offset is 55 mm set out (meaning wheel hub is outboard of the car hub face); and the hub bore is 64 mm.
Clearance around the caliper is not a spec, you'll just have to find out yourself, usually by mounting just the wheel on the hub and bolting just as you would if it had a tire. Allow at least 1/8" all round even with wheel turned fully left and right. There are other things than the caliper to avoid. Especially if a tire was mounted, like a strut or trailing link. For stock tires it should be OK. And if you just want to widen the car consider wheel spacers from your local auto parts places at about $25. One quater-inch (6mm) spacers will move the wheels outward (track width)by half-inch, improving looks, and cornering, at little cost. Just make sure you get at least 7 turns on the lugbolts with spacers.
You can reduce offset to as little as 42 mm if youre not lowered, or to 45 mm if you are dropped no more than 1.5"
Good luck.
Hub bore on the stock wheels is 56.1 mm.
#8
tires are the most important thing on a vehicle, i hate do use a definate statement such as that, but im sure few would disagree with that opinion. you may want to spend the extra money and pick up some good tires, just my perspective.
#9
The only thing less expensive than a new set of GOOD tires that improve performance significantly is 1/4" spacers and the tires win on performance.
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