Can anyone help?

It seems my beloved Fit is taking longer to start.

I have to crank for at least 1 second, maybe 2 seconds before it will start. My wife's 98 Civic barely has to crank and it fires right up.

What could be causing the issue?
Fuel filter (beginning to clog)
spark plugs (maybe fouling or could stand to get better ones)
something else

My wife has better spark plugs (Platinum +2s). Her car was taking a VERY long time to start a few months ago so I changed the fuel filter - which solved that problem.

I stop my car at lights now because I'm hypermiling, so I need my car to reliably start up - and quickly.

 

If it's spark plugs needing to be change, I recommend NGK brand. Best for our little Honda's. Otherwise I've got no clue. :T

 

"stop" as in "turn off" ?
If so ....well theres your problem (sorry regardless of its relevance I had to use that line)

Did this hard to turn the engine over start manifiesting itself after you began the turning off you car at lights thing? If so I would imagine that its putting additional strain on it.

Does the cranking sound like it normaly does but just takes longer? Or does it sound different like its struggling?

hmmm....still thinking...

 

Starter contacts? These caused a similar symptom in on of my civics. $7 fix to replace them.

 

could be a weak battery.

 

+1 the simplest answer is probably the right one. get your battery tested. if its no good, i recommend getting an odyssey PC680. Small, high CCA, great battery that if maintaned, will last you a bunch of years. It'll prob cost ya about $130 but its worth it.

 

SnapFit -
No it hasn't started since starting/stopping more - it's been like this a while, I'm just now so annoyed by it that it's time to fix it. Also - it doesn't sound like it is straining to start, simply taking a longer time to start.

Perihelion -
Starter contacts, eh? Might be worth a shot.

Nighthawksi / rexxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx -
I'll take my battery load tester home today and check that. If it's bad (unable to hold a decent charge) - is that a warranty issue (10 months' old, 16k miles)?

Anyone thinking a fuel filter?

I suppose tonight I'll change spark plugs and test the battery - see how that works. I know I would like to get a larger capacity battery (with greater CCA) - but why change the battery if it's perfectly good? I might as well wait until it ends the near of its useful life.

I'll let you all know what I find.

 

idk if battery is warranty-able. you can always call the dealership and check, its worh a shot...

 

batteries are not usually a warretny item...even though its only 10 months old. the way it would probably work is you get a pro-rated credit towards your new battery.

example...lets say that the OEM battery is rated for 3 years (36 months). divide the cost of the battery by 36, and multiply your answer by 26 (the difference of how much you used the battery and how long it should have lasted).
the answer is how much the dealer would pay for the battery....your responsible for the rest.



however, if your lucky, they will warrenty it for free.

 

Okay - so the battery checked out out fine (Thanks @dvance_@uto).

I bought some Bosch Platinum +4 plugs. I went to go change one out... But the plug socket came off the 3/8" extension while in the plug cylinder. I couldn't get the socket out for a while, but was finally able to with a screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. I then remembered - this happened when I changed my wife's spark plugs.

So I grabbed some 2-part epoxy and permanently married the socket and extension - now I just have to wait an hour for it to cure - then I'll know.

 

Locking extensions work great for plug changes

When you see the truck behind you not slowing down for the light (or your hypermiling car) you'll regret having your car turned off.

 

I'm frugal - even though I own nice tools. No point in buying a new extension when I own quite a few of them already and I can repurpose it with a little epoxy.

I see your concern.... However - While rolling with the engine off, the Fit can be bump started really quickly (which I often do). Additionally, I am always scanning (from years of commuting in San Francisco area with a motorcycle).

If the car is stopped, I am parked directly behind a car anyway - and I'll get creamed (where can I go?). Finally - the ignition is on (even though the car is off), so the airbags will deploy.

I've practiced the techniques plenty on empty streets to have mastered the techniques. I don't drive & talk on the cell phone or daydream or pretend to be an American Idol - I drive with 100% concentration.

 

That was GREAT!

 

if it is factory battery i believe we warranty them for 2 years if not more, look on the battery and it will state how long it is warrantied and u just take it to the dealer and they swap it all out for ya. i dont believe u stated how many miles are on the car, if its low miles then u can rule out the fuel filter as compared to the many things that would cause this before the filter. and yes this turning off ur car everytime u stop is very hard on battery and starter sooo....ya.also a big no no is using NON NGK PLUGS!!! only use ngk plugs ONLY. most hondas brought into the dealer with running probs are because they have used non-ngk plugs.

 

I installed new spark plugs. It starts a little bit faster - but not much.

Perhaps I'll change the fuel filter next and check the distributor cap.

 

Battery $100
Rebuild starter myself $10

Old vs. new
32 MPG vs 40 MPG.

Yearly Cost
I average 16,000 miles per year.
32 MPG = 500 gallons used throughout the year
40 MPG = 400 gallons used throughout the year

At $3.00/gallon the cost is as follows (gas is higher here, and expected to go higher).
32 MPG, 500 gallons = $1,500
40 MPG, 400 gallons = $1,200
Savings of $300 per year

If gas gets to $4.00/gallon, the savings will be $400/year.

It's worth it to me. BTW - lots - LOTS of people on cleanmpg.com start/re-start their cars WAY more than me and have huge miles (200,000+) on their factory starter in similar cars - Civics (1.6L), Insights (1.5L), et-cetera.

 

Starter contacts have nothing to do with crank time. If it turns at all your starter contacts are working fine.

 

LOL... you make my day ...
btw i have the same problem with you.... im going to change the spark plug this weekend and have a go.

 

i would be interested to hear the answer to this as i think i am experiencing the same problem. my fit is taking noticeably longer to crank than it did when it was new.

 

In other cars this is usually linked back to the fuel pump not pressurizing the system enough on start up. Try holding the key in the on position for a second before turning it to start.

On one of my cars I put a jumper in so that the fuel pump would cycle longer in the on position so it could pressurize the system more. 2 seconds or so in the on position and then to the start and it would fire every time. If I turned the key straight past on and to start it wouldn't fire to save it's life.