ROFL! I hear that when I'm in the lower 48 sometimes.

 

Michigan. It gets down to -20F here usually at least once a winter. Normal winter temps are usually 0F to 30F.

Of course, heat is what really kills it, and it rarely gets over 95F in the summer. I remember once it got to 105F man that was a hot day. With Lake Michigan humidity it was killer

I do believe Honda cuts corners, but 99% of the time it's in a way that doesn't detract from function or reliability. The other 1% was my dang y8 oil pump.

 

LOLL! yeah thats true, you have less control in heat. haha. but its still nice. 55 may be tshirt and shorts weather for you but for california its damn freezing. hahah

 

A resounding YEP!

 

Follow-up:
Thanks for the tip.

The dealer tested the battery, charging/voltage, etc. and said all is good. Service adviser lectured me for my rubber aftermarket mats (it gets sloppy here in the winter!) and insisted it must have been the clutch not fully depressing. Besides that I've driven a stick my whole life, I've had the same mat in for a month already and had no problems before. Also, when it finally did start I had made no adjustments to the mat. So that theory makes no sense. On the plus side, the service adviser said if it doesn't start next week I can slap him upside the head. That could be fun..

 

HAHAH! take what you can get, I always say

 

My 07 Fit would not start today. Not that many miles. Yeah, cold out but not that cold. I would not expect this from a NEW CAR. Where do you tap the starter with the bat?
I'll get it started I suppose, have to check what warrenty is.

 

Just for a laugh, take your floor mat out and give it a go. Grasping at anything at this point.

Let us know.

 

i have to jump it to start but i cant drive it it dies out cant trun on the heater bc it loss power help please tired of the car

 

Your symptom description is a bit vague, but here goes...

Once the car is running, normally all power needed to keep running, plus a bit extra, is generated by the car's alternator. This extra is routed into the battery to recharge it so you can start next time. Batteries have a "reserve capacity" which will allow the car to keep running for a while if the alternator stops working (usually poorly though - worse as you turn more electrical stuff on).

Use a voltage meter _on the battery terminals_ (not on the wires/clamps) with your car running, jumper cables off. If you see <12 volts, your battery is not getting charged by the alternator (normal would be ~13.5V, but a really drained battery can suppress it for a while). If you don't have a meter, go buy one. They're cheap.

Start by checking the fuses, and then the connections at the battery and alternator. If everything looks OK (tight and clean), the best bet is to take the alternator out and take it to one of the parts chains, they can bench test it for you (usually *for free*).

Don't let the battery sit "dead" if you can avoid it. This can shorten the remaining life considerably. In fact, I would disconnect the battery ground wire and then charge the battery. One way alternators can fail is for one of the rectifier diodes to start passing current "backwards", which will cause your battery to drain flat just sitting there.

 

I just got the head light recall done and my altenater blew out now I have to tow it to the show bc I have no steering

 

Fuel pump? If it's running, you should be able to hear a faint high pitched whine coming from the gas tank before you kick the starter over.

 

A few things: I was told never disconnect the battery cables while running-it can damage the electric system. A car with many years on it is a good candidate to have all the ign/batt connections taken apart and cleaned, including the block ground. Finally, with a non-sealed top post battery, it's always possible for electrolyte to end up on top of battery and actually short it. You can tell this if the battery shows OK voltage but you can actually get a significant voltage reading from one of the terminals to the PLASTIC top of the battery! This won't allow enough amps to get to the starter.

 

Just seen check engine, traction and steering lights come on this morning. I've been monitoring a misfire issue since 76,000 km after I had the dealership replace the CVT fluid. That was the day I started having all sorts of problems. I just want to note that the car was thurally pressure washed when I got it back from them so this all might be related to water ingress somewhere. I also noticed the CVT fluid plug got knocked out of place so I had to squeeze in there and push it back in.

The day I got it back I started having starter issues. It would take me multiple attempts at turning the key for the car to start. It randomly just wouldn't start and I ended up sitting there for 45 minutes trying to get it to turn over once. It just clicked once per try. Turned out to be the starter itself or starter relay recessed inside it. I replaced it about 19,000 km ago and never had a starter issue since.

Last fall I noticed a misfire or slipping feeling, I panicked and thought it was the CVT but I noticed it was only present when the engine was cold (the blue light was on). That was at about 82,000 km. Since then the problems been more and more noticeable. But only when the car is cold. Once its warm, I dont notice anything wrong with it. No MPG issues, no vibrations or anything.

This spring I started getting check engine lights on, happened 3 times before now, all 3 times it went away by itself. I caught the code the second time: P0420 which is fuel system/catalytic converter related issue. I tried putting fuel injector cleaner in it to see if that helped, but it didn't get me anywhere, or at least it wasnt noticable. Every time the lights come on, it's when I first start the car, so it's cold and the car does its rough idle BS.

I have yet to check the spark plugs, and I've also heard the parts/computer that throttles the fuel/air mixture when it's cold might be dirty or damaged. The fuel injectors are also 6 inches above the starter so water might have caused that problem if the injectors are indeed the issue. Again my fuel economy is good and and I only have issues when the engine is cold (though it idling warm isn't as smooth as when I first bought it). I do a ridiculous amount of driving and only have owned it 2.5 years now but I dont think that itself can cause issues.

If anyone has a permanent fix for this yet, please please respond back. I know once the problem goes away, you tend not to think of this forum again. I am guilty of this, so I know first hand how easy it is to forget. Anyways, hope this helps someone diagnose there issues and that someone finally posts a solid fix.

P.S. I'm posting this on multiple threads so you might come across this again. Misfire, warning lights and starter threads so far.

 

I believe I found the solution, once your battery is good simply do this. This may seem silly but it worked for me. Disconnect your car battery, go to you fuse box located under the steering wheel and use a thin flat head screw driver or pliers to remove all the relays one by one and resit them. To use the flat head screw driver, pry it at the bottom of relay and force it out. Strange enough it fix the starter problem. Be aware that the blue relay was not move. Reconnect the battery and try starting again.

 

With all due respect, why not just start your own thread on your issue, instead of tacking on, and resurrecting a horde of long since dead Zombie Threads?

You're likely to get better response and more concise answers, as well as not littering the site with multiple suddenly brought to life dead threads.

 

I feel bad for post #34, very detailed post.... and no help