Driveline forum?
 

In fit Trix, we have Exhaust, In car entertainment, engine, suspention and brake, etc forums...Where is Driveline??? :P (Just wondering!)Marko! ;)

Good spot. Driveline = transmission right? I've noticed people just post those matters in the GD- or GE-specific forums.

Driveline = Transmission, clutch, Torque converter, Axles and even the type of oil to use in them!!

Should we do a separate Driveline Forum? I think so!

Marko!

Since I don't want to make a new thread and to further add clutter , I 'll post my question in here.

Has anyone done any modification to the clutch delay valve??

I've searched and the thread were someone tried to do the mod said that the delay valve is inside the master cylinder and the mod was put to hold. There's no more update on it and was wondering if someone has done it either on GDs' or GEs'.

Looking for the same info here too! Here is an update to that.
So it looks like the GE guys have an option to get around it, I haven't found anyone who has bypassed this on the GD yet tho... I'll keep looking around and see what I can find for us.


Also here is the link to that thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...lay-valve.html

Ok, so I did some poking around under the hood and it looks like we can eliminate the clutch delay valve on the GD3!

Attachment 48623

Here is what I found, we can remove the hard line from the clutch master cylinder, clutch delay valve assembly, and soft line from assembly to the last hard line connected to the slave cylinder. We can then connect the master cylinder straight to the hard line that is connected to the salve cylinder with a 24" male/female soft line.

Attachment 48624

Here you can see on the left, under the coolant line, the hard line that is connected to the slave cylinder.

Attachment 48625

Here's an uncluttered view if it will help anyone.

Attachment 48626


#24 DAMPER, CLUTCH
I'll post when I find the line that we will be able to use.

Here is what I came up with on summit Racing:


Attachment 48375

I'm going to order the listed parts and try it out in the next week or so. With this setup we should be able to route SS line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder no problem.

oh i'm interested...


props for the research and diy initiative...

Wow this is very interesting!! With just some simple line replacement we can eliminate the clutch delay valve completely.

There's just one thing though. It has been said by awptickes ( hope my memory serves me correct) said that the delay valve is one with the master cylinder.

After rechecking the thread, I just confirmed that he did in fact replace his MC with Club RSX.com: Omni-Power Clutch Master Cylinder: Acura RSX.

Please let us how it feels once you replace the line. Looking forward to your DIY/review!!!:wavey:

^^^ Ok I was stupid enough by not reading things completely and just noticed that the pictures posted above is for the GD3. Just disregard my above post.

Yes this is for the GD3 fit, I have had people say the same thing about the delay valve being located in the master. I looked up the clutch line diagram for the S2000 and RSX which are known to have the delay valve located in the master. Their diagrams do not show a delay valve in their line like the GD does. I'm not sure on the GE8, as I haven't seen a diagram for it. I have read the thread you are talking about and I would think a master cylinder would not need to be swapped. You should be able to remove the delay valve from the stock MC. Just google CDV removal for the S2000 and it will give you an idea on removing it yourself. Best part is it free for you!

Ben also mentioned that replacing the hose line with a steel braided line helps dramatically.

On the GD3, the "delay valve" is called the "damper" and it's that triangle shaped mess between the hardline and soft line. Remove that, and you'll have no more problems.

IIRC, the RSX's clutch soft line hose will fit right up to the existing hardline with minimal bending.

bump

any progress?



love the neon btw...

yeah I decided to install my supercharger last weekend instead. Long story short the car is dead in the water until I get the replacement, so might be a week or two before the car is running again. I found on king motorsports site that they offer the exact same thing as I put together from summit. They list it for our car and to do what we want it to do, $90 bux tho...

The SRT-4 in my sig or mine?

you're talking about the "clutch hardline eliminator?" hadn't seen that before... and that replaces everything between the master and the slave?

i also saw that j's racing sells a hardline, but it looks like it only replaces the rubber line and doesn't replace anything else...


i only saw the srt in your sig... i've had a dream about swapping the srt rear suspension cradle and suspension components into my ptgt for a while now... i don't think i'll ever get the down time to do it, but it would be sweet...

Its the exact same stuff I posted, they just sell it as a kit for an extra $40 more than summit does. So yeah master to slave braided line kit.

here is/was mine!Attachment 47733

Attachment 47734

Attachment 47735

Attachment 47736

20G turbo/AEM EMS/FMIC/BG inverted coils etc...

do you think you need the full 48", or is that just the length that they had?


20g? nice...

here's your redheaded step child:
e1/dsp/fmic/3"

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0140_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0144_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0145_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0158_large.jpg

Car looks good! My buddy was stage 2 with that E1 turbo but I never really liked they way his car put down the power with it. IDK what cams your car runs. Is it the same as stock srt-4? I swapped in 2.0 cams and that made a huge difference with drive-ability and the powerband! The car pulled MUCH smoother to redline! Also try the DCR top end modifier if it works with your motor, best $50 I spent on that car! The kit I ran was the Hahn Racecraft 20G kit Hahn Racecraft - Automotive Turbosystems. I got out of that car, as that was way to much power for FWD.

As for that clutch line kit, yes order everything exactly as I posted. I pulled everything out of the car and measured with some electrical wire from the MC to SC and got 48". It should look factory if you get the line with the 90 in it and the extra 90 for the other side. I would follow along the fire wall and into the same location the the factory hard line was routed to the SC.

Hope that helps!

^ helps huge... i need to wait a few weeks before i can pull the trigger to order, so if you get to it first lmk...

you don't need to teflon tape the threads on these do you?



i've heard about the 2.0 cam swap... just never had the balls to do it... our engine bays are even more cramped than the neon's and it makes changing cams a chore... i may do it when i have to change my timing belt while i'm in there... did you only do the exhaust cam? from what i've heard that's the only one that's worth it...

i've had the top-end modifier for a while now... i was surprised what a small piece like that could do for the top end... i was happily surprised!

do you know of anyone good/reliable that you would recommend to get a custom dsp tune from? i need some sensor rescales and a wga duty cycle rescale...