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Hello all!
Over the summer of '21 and into the spring of '22 I built a 2007 Fit into a stage rally car. I raced 8 events last year and did pretty well and learned a lot. I have 2 events under my belt so far this season in the L2WD class.
The problem with the Fit.....lowest HP in the class. And I'm limited to what I can do to it and still keep in the limited 2wd class. I'm in there with Fiesta STs, BMWs and others that come stock with much higher performance.
So I'm searching for every little thing now to squeeze a bit more from this car. I just put 4.94 final drive and lightened flywheel in. Wondering if the hondata and tuning the motor is the best next step?
Appreciate any feedback! Thanks for your time!
A Hondata FlashPro is definitely what you need. With that you can tune it for 93 octane and any other changes you make. Without the ability to tune for exhaust, intake, etc modifications, nothing you do will make a meaningful difference.
@NBuk Heya! We've chatted briefly on one of the FB groups about rally. Glad you migrated here as well.
Yes, yes and yes... Hondata Flash Pro is heavily encouraged if you haven't gotten it and it is quite a beneficial tool as well.
Speaking from personal experience, I've gone from a baseline of about 92 WHP to 104 WHP (with an automatic GD3 mind you, 5MTs would be around the 110 WHP mark) with just fuel tuning after installing one step colder spark plugs, a T1R Response header, Megan resonated test pipe, and Spoon's Mid-pipe and axle back.
You can of course adjust ignition tables, your drive by wire throttle map, adjust your VTEC engagement window, read P code DTCs (at minimum), and even datalog during while driving without having the device hooked up to a laptop.
Also, something I've recently come across is the Cheddar Auto rear engine mount (a poly urethane mount if I recall correctly). I've been running it in my beater Fit which will later become a rallycross car. I find that this mount actually helps reduce traction hop when launching from a dig, They also have transmission mounts as well but I've yet to look at them online.
Thank you!
One thing I cant do is delete the cat. But I am going to get the Hondata and see where we can go from there.
I am running a $200.00 junkyard motor with the plugs that were in it... lol And putting down decent times against those in my class.
Thank you!
One thing I cant do is delete the cat. But I am going to get the Hondata and see where we can go from there.
I am running a $200.00 junkyard motor with the plugs that were in it... lol And putting down decent times against those in my class.
Thanks, Nick
Ooh, well I'm sure you can easily liven easily the car up. I'd encourage checking valve lash if you haven't and going one step colder to a Denso IK22 (P/N 5310 if I recall correctly) or the NGK equivalent then go from there.
The L series is pretty quirky with valve clearance and almost needs upkeep like an older motorcycle... Street cars that see a good bit of spirited driving, I'd encourage folk to check every 3 years or 30 to 45k miles. More civilly driven cars of course see longer intervals nearing the 75 to 100k mark before I'd start checking them.
Also, drop me a link to the rule book please. I'm genuinely curious now. I'd assume your classes power modifications are somewhat like SCCA's old STF class for autocross. I figured you couldn't run a cat delete BUT... What is the ruling on high flow cats? Unequal fabrication makes them to order for 315 bucks shipped and they're modular. Just plug and play like OE exhaust.
