question about fuel injection
question about fuel injection
so i'm wondering, do the injectors "squirt" more fuel when you give the car more "gas"? or is it more "squirts" when you give it more "gas" ?
also, does the engine require more fuel at a higher RPM compared to flooring it at a low RPM? i drive up a hill every morning and questioning if i should keep it in first with high RPM's or put it in second and have it "bog" .
PLEASE BACK UP YOUR ANSWER WITH CLEAR EVIDENCE. DO NOT ANSWER UNLESS YOU KNOW. DO NOT ARGUE. DO NOT "DEBATE". GIVE YOUR ANSWER AND YOUR ANSWER ALONE.
doubt that's going to happen since there are too many "children" on this website.
also, does the engine require more fuel at a higher RPM compared to flooring it at a low RPM? i drive up a hill every morning and questioning if i should keep it in first with high RPM's or put it in second and have it "bog" .
PLEASE BACK UP YOUR ANSWER WITH CLEAR EVIDENCE. DO NOT ANSWER UNLESS YOU KNOW. DO NOT ARGUE. DO NOT "DEBATE". GIVE YOUR ANSWER AND YOUR ANSWER ALONE.
doubt that's going to happen since there are too many "children" on this website.
Or improve your attitude.
The more throttle you give it, the more gas it's using. Gas consumption is not completely dependent on RPMs of the engine alone. It also depends on throttle position.
I assume you're driving stick. The only way you could bog by shifting it to 2nd is if you're shifting at a very low RPM. I usually shift to 2nd when I'm between 3,000 and 3,750 RPM.
And clean up your attitude. We don't want another claymore.
I assume you're driving stick. The only way you could bog by shifting it to 2nd is if you're shifting at a very low RPM. I usually shift to 2nd when I'm between 3,000 and 3,750 RPM.
And clean up your attitude. We don't want another claymore.
Why don't you just buy a scangauge and test it out for yourself. That way you won't be arguing/debating against anyone but yourself. These forums are made for information sharing, not to act all smart or to put people down. If we all just jump the gun and gave you an answer right away without thinking what we typed. We'd all probably have the wrong answer. So be patient before you assume something like that.
We don't want another George Bush incident! JUMP THE GUN, START A WAR and then change our minds.
We don't want another George Bush incident! JUMP THE GUN, START A WAR and then change our minds.
i wasnt trying to be a turd. lol just had some bad inputs from none other than....drum roll please. CLAYMORE!!!! he has come in to my posts and jacked them and started crap in there so that i never got the answer to my question. that's the only reason i really said all that stuff. sorry if you guys took it that way though. perhaps i should just post a "NO CLAYMORE" sign for my posts. lol good to know im not the only one that doesnt like him.
[quote=wontfit;333685]so i'm wondering, do the injectors "squirt" more fuel when you give the car more "gas"? or is it more "squirts" when you give it more "gas" ?
also, does the engine require more fuel at a higher RPM compared to flooring it at a low RPM?
FI works by changing the length of time the injector 'squirts'. Incoming air and throttle position are used to control the length of time. Any time you accelerate the time is increased over steady state fuel flow (steady throttle position) no matter what the rpm.
The length of time is longer when you are accelerating from a low speed in the same way an accelerator pump was used on carbureted cars. Pumping the throttle really throws the fuel out. Opening the throttle suddenly sucks a large amount of air into the cylinders and if you don't want to stall you spray a lot of extra gas into the airstream or cylinder.
At high rpm the injection period is carefully controlled to the intake air flow so it is more precise and therefore more econonmical for the flow in use.
That being said, if your rpm and air intake are high enough compared to the low flow you can easily be using more gas at high rpm than dumping the throttle at low rpm.
Based on experience with FI and carbs I would estimate that if your rpm is more than 4 times the low speed rpm you will be using more gas at high rpm than dumping(once) the throttle at low rpm. But thats just a guess though it is an educated guess. We never tested that particular situation.
As for downshifting the other posts have it right: just don't downshift when the new gear will 'lug' the engine. In other words keep it above 1500 rpm after shifting down.
Hope that helps. cheers.
also, does the engine require more fuel at a higher RPM compared to flooring it at a low RPM?
FI works by changing the length of time the injector 'squirts'. Incoming air and throttle position are used to control the length of time. Any time you accelerate the time is increased over steady state fuel flow (steady throttle position) no matter what the rpm.
The length of time is longer when you are accelerating from a low speed in the same way an accelerator pump was used on carbureted cars. Pumping the throttle really throws the fuel out. Opening the throttle suddenly sucks a large amount of air into the cylinders and if you don't want to stall you spray a lot of extra gas into the airstream or cylinder.
At high rpm the injection period is carefully controlled to the intake air flow so it is more precise and therefore more econonmical for the flow in use.
That being said, if your rpm and air intake are high enough compared to the low flow you can easily be using more gas at high rpm than dumping the throttle at low rpm.
Based on experience with FI and carbs I would estimate that if your rpm is more than 4 times the low speed rpm you will be using more gas at high rpm than dumping(once) the throttle at low rpm. But thats just a guess though it is an educated guess. We never tested that particular situation.
As for downshifting the other posts have it right: just don't downshift when the new gear will 'lug' the engine. In other words keep it above 1500 rpm after shifting down.
Hope that helps. cheers.
Last edited by mahout; Jun 10, 2008 at 04:47 PM.
I will input on experience:
I shift at 2.5k BUT I accelerate slow. Also, I maintain a constant speed up hill such that the car does not struggle. Therefore, I do NOT accelerate going up hill. I rarely go over 3000 rpm unless I must, to go with the flow of traffic on the interstate or I am drafting. You can observe my mileage in my signature and on cleanmpg.com if you are wanting to know if what I do helps with mpg, thus, drawing your own conclusions.
Also, I use FAS.
I shift at 2.5k BUT I accelerate slow. Also, I maintain a constant speed up hill such that the car does not struggle. Therefore, I do NOT accelerate going up hill. I rarely go over 3000 rpm unless I must, to go with the flow of traffic on the interstate or I am drafting. You can observe my mileage in my signature and on cleanmpg.com if you are wanting to know if what I do helps with mpg, thus, drawing your own conclusions.

Also, I use FAS.
My knowledge is pretty much the same as mahout. I'll add a couple things. Most programs I've seen for fuel injected engines have a specific fuel map for periods of "lugging" or have a section of the base fuel map that deals with lugging situations. In lugging situations more fuel is given per volume of air coming in (rich condition) and/or ignition timing is retarded. Both strategies help keep detonation at bay, which can happen more easily during periods of engine lugging. Also, most lugging strategies I've seen tend to error heavily on the side of caution when it comes to keeping detonation away in times of lugging. So that means a bunch of fuel being dumped in and a bunch of timing being taken out. Both significantly reduce fuel efficiency. I imagine this to be especially true in today's modern engines that run high compression ratios on regular 87 octane gas.
You can get out of a lugging situation by either downshifting to ease the load or easing up on the throttle to reduce load (with a severe acceleration penalty - I prefer downshifting). Like as been said before in this post, a ScanGauge will help you easily identify when lugging situations occur and when you are running under the normal fuel curve. There's no light or tag that comes up on the ScanGauge readout, but the instant mpg will help you identify each situation.
My experience has been that the Fit, because of its short gearing and light weight, doesn't really have that big a problem with lugging situations, unless of course you have a significant amount of weight in the car, or the A/C on.
You can get out of a lugging situation by either downshifting to ease the load or easing up on the throttle to reduce load (with a severe acceleration penalty - I prefer downshifting). Like as been said before in this post, a ScanGauge will help you easily identify when lugging situations occur and when you are running under the normal fuel curve. There's no light or tag that comes up on the ScanGauge readout, but the instant mpg will help you identify each situation.
My experience has been that the Fit, because of its short gearing and light weight, doesn't really have that big a problem with lugging situations, unless of course you have a significant amount of weight in the car, or the A/C on.
thanks guys, all good input too! ya i agree with arizona, i tend to leave the fit in first and take the hill. however 2nd isn't bad with just me and the wife. this weekend i had me+wife+mother+step father (a combined weight of 700-800lbs.) in second gear in this scenario the fit bogged and lost RPM and speed. it took first gear to get up the hill, and did so valiantly. you guys wouldn't believe this hill. steepest in oregon IMO. btw, what does DFCO mean? i see it used a lot in the ECO FIT forum.
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