General Fit Talk General Discussion on the Honda Fit/Jazz.

Take a gander at this BEIOTCHES!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 08-10-2008, 09:00 AM
pcs0snq's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: lake worth FL
Posts: 1,049
Originally Posted by Buzzbomb
will be switching to AMSOIL 5w30 next weekend.
That would be a BAD idea.
Use 5W-20
The *W-30 is way too thick and out of spec.
Not recomended by anyone.......

PS with 46.3 avg you could of gone 574miles to empty so 500 with margin
You have an honest 1.8 gal after the E light comes on and in you case, about 80 miles
I went well over 100 miles Wed at 48ishmpg

Here's my 1st fill UOA

 

Last edited by pcs0snq; 08-10-2008 at 09:04 AM.
  #22  
Old 08-10-2008, 12:11 PM
Buzzbomb's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
If you can find some documentation substantiating a detrimental effect to the engine, I'm all open.

It's well known that a synthetic oil has better flow characteristics than conventional oil. So it it would make sense that a high quality 30 weight synthetic should flow as well or better than a 20 weight conventional. I really doubt there is any danger to damage, as I've seen turbo Honda guys running 20w-50 oil in there stock B16s with no problems. If anything, the only problem I can see is a drop in MPG's, which if there is a significant drop, I will switch to 5w-20.
 

Last edited by Buzzbomb; 08-10-2008 at 12:23 PM.
  #23  
Old 08-10-2008, 12:27 PM
Rockrover's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Santa Fe
Posts: 128
Buzzbomb,

Why go heavier weight?

I'm leaning towards 0w20 now that temps will soon (when I'm ready to change) be getting cooler.
 
  #24  
Old 08-10-2008, 12:37 PM
Buzzbomb's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by Rockrover
Buzzbomb,

Why go heavier weight?

I'm leaning towards 0w20 now that temps will soon (when I'm ready to change) be getting cooler.
There are 2 reasons:

1: I'm not 100% sure that the 5w-20 weight recommendation is based on the engine design and not to raise the CAFE MPG average like Honda and several other manufactures did in 2001.

Case in point, a friend switched to synthetic oil in 2 of his cars, a 99 Cougar, and 01 Focus. Both cars had the EXACT same engine, but the Cougar called for 5w30 and the Focus 5w20.

HOWEVER, I realize that the L15 is a newer engine and could have been designed with the lighter weight in mind, but I haven't found any info to verify.

2: Both of my other cars run on 5w30 and it's easier and cheaper to buy one oil in bulk. And because I know that the only really problem that may occur is a drop in mpg, I'm willing to give it a shot.
 
  #25  
Old 08-10-2008, 01:57 PM
pcs0snq's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: lake worth FL
Posts: 1,049
Originally Posted by Buzzbomb
If you can find some documentation substantiating a detrimental effect to the engine, I'm all open.

It's well known that a synthetic oil has better flow characteristics than conventional oil. So it it would make sense that a high quality 30 weight synthetic should flow as well or better than a 20 weight conventional. I really doubt there is any danger to damage, as I've seen turbo Honda guys running 20w-50 oil in there stock B16s with no problems. If anything, the only problem I can see is a drop in MPG's, which if there is a significant drop, I will switch to 5w-20.
What you think is well known is not. In fact no data at all to support most of what you just said. Go ask any of that on the Bob is the oil guy site... I paid an OIL consultant, Terry Dyson for a few years to learn what I know now. All I can do is try and help you. You will not be the 1st one to not listen to experience. Good luck.
 
  #26  
Old 08-10-2008, 02:21 PM
Buzzbomb's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by pcs0snq
What you think is well known is not. In fact no data at all to support most of what you just said. Go ask any of that on the Bob is the oil guy site... I paid an OIL consultant, Terry Dyson for a few years to learn what I know now. All I can do is try and help you. You will not be the 1st one to not listen to experience. Good luck.
I said I was open to any information you're willing to give didn't I? Can you share any stuff you paid Terry to teach you with me?
 
  #27  
Old 08-10-2008, 02:53 PM
pcs0snq's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: lake worth FL
Posts: 1,049
Originally Posted by Buzzbomb
I said I was open to any information you're willing to give didn't I? Can you share any stuff you paid Terry to teach you with me?
Sure thought that was kind of clear. High viscosity oil is NFG in your Fit.

Here's what I recommend
Run the factor oil SAE 5W-20 while in warranty, that's a given. When it's out or you will not take it back if you have issues, get a oil pressure gauge and see what the Pressure is HOT at idle and cruse RPM's. Lower the oil 100csT weight and see what you have. Try a xW-10 1st. If the pressure is no less than 25psi at idle and 50psi at cruse your good.

Lighter oil does two things Better
FE and
higher flow rates (better cooling and filtering)
both are good things.

Re/ Synthetic base stock. It's will take higher temps before failing, but other than that, it's no different by design than non. The Fit eng temp is so far below those temps it does not matter. It's more for HD applications that you need that help. It also will not shear out of grade as easy as mineral oil. That's some of the WHY why you can run it longer. extended service.

The additive package makes the oil do better and that's closely linked to the cost.

Order this and listen to it. There's a great deal more to this.
Racing Oil Analysis: Terry Dyson

No way I can explain it all on here.

Amsoil is a good oil, but considered expensive unless your hooked up.

I plan to use a decent mineral oil and change it based on the test results. As with my other cars and how this 1.5L is made I expect to get 6 to 7,000 miles per change and at $3/qt spend no more than $172 over 100k miles + filters. I have done that for the last 30 years and have gone way over 250k mikes with perfect engine at the end. I do not mind changing that often as I feel even with a oil 2 or 3x the cost, you still have to do the filter.
 
  #28  
Old 08-10-2008, 03:29 PM
Buzzbomb's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
Ok, good enough. I should probably stay within recommended weight while in warranty, I'll agree to that.

I may not go as far as installing a oil pressure gauge, but I just checked Amsoil application guide, it lists 0w20, 5w20, and 0w30 as compatible oils so I should at least stick to that.

I've been doing 1 year oil and filter changes in my cars for several years with analysis results so the Amsoil is cheaper in the long run.
 
  #29  
Old 08-10-2008, 04:07 PM
pcs0snq's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: lake worth FL
Posts: 1,049
Originally Posted by Buzzbomb
I've been doing 1 year oil and filter changes in my cars for several years with analysis results so the Amsoil is cheaper in the long run.
Well sounds like a thank you

BTW
1 year on an oil change and cheaper? Please share some details
Miles in a year?
Did you do the recommended filter? How many per year?
Cost per qt delivered for your Amsoil?
 
  #30  
Old 08-10-2008, 04:45 PM
Buzzbomb's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by pcs0snq
BTW
1 year on an oil change and cheaper? Please share some details
Miles in a year?
Did you do the recommended filter? How many per year?
Cost per qt delivered for your Amsoil?
I use the Amsoil oil filter which is also a 1 year or 25,000 mile filter so I only need one filter per year.

A case of oil and 4 filters cost approx $150. (If I had more time I'd get an exact number) That would last me 4 years.

I drive around 15,000 miles a year. So going by the 3,000 mile / 3 month rule I'd be spending about $13 an oil change 4 times, so $52 a year by 4 years = $208

But for me it's more about the time savings than money savings. Once a year changes on 3 cars is the advantage for me.
 
  #31  
Old 08-10-2008, 05:21 PM
pcs0snq's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: lake worth FL
Posts: 1,049
  #32  
Old 08-10-2008, 06:44 PM
Buzzbomb's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
Yeah, the Eao Filter, but the ASL oil.
 
  #33  
Old 08-10-2008, 07:00 PM
pcs0snq's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: lake worth FL
Posts: 1,049
Originally Posted by Buzzbomb
Yeah, the Eao Filter, but the ASL oil.
I do not see a 5W-20 in that top end version.
Looks like the ASMQT 0W-20 in Amsoil will be you only option.

The effect of the 0W-XX will be gone in 10 min and may be good in a cold area from what I hear.

Can you post some UOA after one year and 15,000 miles on this deal? I'd like to look at a few test details.
 
  #34  
Old 08-10-2008, 08:12 PM
Buzzbomb's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by pcs0snq
I do not see a 5W-20 in that top end version.
Looks like the ASMQT 0W-20 in Amsoil will be you only option.
Right, that's why I was going to use the 5w30. I may end up using the XL oil instead.

I'd be happy to post some results up when I accrue the mileage.
 
  #35  
Old 08-10-2008, 08:18 PM
pcs0snq's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: lake worth FL
Posts: 1,049
Buzzbomb

I have many from my V6 Accord I can post. Shell Clean 10W-30 that I took to 7,000 miles many times. Guys over on BITOG thought it was good stuff.

I use Blackstone Labs. What about you?

Do you have any tests from the other car's you mentioned that you went 1 year and about 15,000 miles on the Amsoil?

I was also wondering how that extended interval will work out with Honda's comments about oil in the Owner manual. What I read was it has to go at 15% ish regardless of it being top shelf oil or not. Could be a warranty concern?
 
  #36  
Old 08-11-2008, 04:50 AM
Buzzbomb's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
The last report I have has just under 10K miles (I changed the oil before selling the car). I'll pm you the link as we've taken this thread off topic.
 

Last edited by Buzzbomb; 08-11-2008 at 04:56 AM.
  #37  
Old 08-11-2008, 08:25 AM
pcs0snq's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: lake worth FL
Posts: 1,049
Do you have in with 15k miles and 1 year of service? I thought that's is what you had been doing?? Interesting the Blackstone comments. It did not look like they would like to see it go 15k as the TBN is pretty low already.
 
  #38  
Old 08-11-2008, 10:44 AM
wdb's Avatar
wdb
wdb is offline
Member
5 Year Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: the Perimeter
Posts: 977
This has to be the most complete thread hijack I've seen on fitfreak. Way to go guys.
 
  #39  
Old 08-11-2008, 01:34 PM
Rockrover's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Santa Fe
Posts: 128
I helped it along too though....Dialog on the ECO forum gets slow a often times.

--D
 
  #40  
Old 08-11-2008, 05:50 PM
pcs0snq's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: lake worth FL
Posts: 1,049
My bad sorry!
But look at the good side. All the oil info you ever dreamed of needing.

Actually the thread starter is a old bud on another form I frequent with me being close to 11,000 posts (10,000 showing) ... maybe he will chime in lol
 


Quick Reply: Take a gander at this BEIOTCHES!



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:32 AM.